ITEM 7. MANAGEMENT’S DISCUSSION AND ANALYSIS OF FINANCIAL CONDITION AND RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
The following discussion of our financial condition and results of operations should be read in conjunction with our audited consolidated financial statements and notes thereto appearing elsewhere in this Annual Report on Form 10-K.
Overview
($ in thousands, except for retail sales data per square foot, earnings per share and per share data)
Steven Madden, Ltd. and its subsidiaries design, source, and market fashion-forward branded and private label footwear, accessories and apparel for women, men, and children. We distribute our products in the wholesale channel through department stores, mass merchants, off-price retailers, shoe chains, online retailers, national chains, specialty retailers, independent stores, and clubs throughout the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Europe, and other international markets through our joint ventures in Israel, South Africa, China, Taiwan, Malaysia, and the Middle East along with special distribution arrangements in certain European countries, North Africa, South and Central America, Australia, and various countries in Asia. In addition, our products are distributed through our direct-to-consumer channel within the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Europe, and our joint ventures in Israel, South Africa, China, Taiwan, and the Middle East.
Our product lines include a broad range of contemporary styles designed to establish or capitalize on market trends, complemented by core product offerings. We have established a reputation for design creativity and our ability to offer quality, trend-right products at accessible price points, delivered in an efficient manner and time frame.
Our business comprises five distinct segments: Wholesale Footwear, Wholesale Accessories/Apparel, Direct-to-Consumer, First Cost, and Licensing. Our Wholesale Footwear segment designs, sources, and markets our brands and sells our products to department stores, mass merchants, off-price retailers, shoe chains, online retailers, national chains, specialty retailers, independent stores, and clubs throughout the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Europe, and through our joint ventures and international distributor network. Our Wholesale Accessories/Apparel segment designs, sources, and markets our brands and sells our products to department stores, mass merchants, off-price retailers, online retailers, specialty retailers, independent stores and clubs throughout the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Europe and through our joint ventures and international distributor network. Our Direct-to-Consumer segment, which was referred to as the Retail segment in previous filings, consists of Steve Madden® and Dolce Vita® full-price retail stores, Steve Madden® outlet stores, and our directly-operated digital e-commerce websites. Our retail stores are located in regional malls and shopping centers, as well as high streets in major cities across the United States, Canada, Mexico, Israel, South Africa, Taiwan, China, and the Middle East. Our First Cost segment represents commission based activities where the Company serves as a buying agent for footwear products under private labels for select national chains, and value-priced retailers. Our Licensing segment is engaged in the licensing of the Steve Madden® and Betsey Johnson® trademarks for use in the sale of select apparel, accessory, and home categories as well as various other non-core products. Corporate does not constitute a reportable segment and includes costs not directly attributable to the segments. These costs are primarily related to expenses associated with corporate executives, corporate finance, legal, human resources, information technology, cyber security, corporate social responsibility, and other shared services.
Dividends
Our Board of Directors approved a quarterly cash dividend of $0.21 per share on our outstanding shares of common stock which was paid on March 25, 2022, June 24, 2022, September 26, 2022 and December 30, 2022. The aggregate cash dividends paid for the twelve months ended December 31, 2022 was $66,005.
On February 22, 2023, our Board of Directors approved a quarterly dividend of $0.21 per share is payable on March 24, 2023 to stockholders of record as of the close of business on March 10, 2023.
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Executive Summary
Recent Developments
During fiscal year 2022, the Company formed a joint venture ("AG SM Holdings Limited") with Apparel FZCO through its subsidiary, Madden Asia Holding Limited. The Company controls all the significant participating rights of the joint venture and is the majority interest holder in AG SM Holdings Limited. AG SM Holdings Limited is the exclusive distributor of the Company’s products in the Middle East. For additional information on these acquisitions, refer to Note D – Acquisitions & Sale of Minority Noncontrolling Interest in the Notes to our consolidated financial statements included in this Annual Report.
Key Highlights
Total revenue for 2022 increased by 13.7% to $2,122,009 from $1,866,142 in 2021. Net income attributable to Steven Madden, Ltd. was $216,061 in 2022 compared to $190,678 in 2021. Our effective tax rate for 2022 increased to 23.1% compared to 20.5% in 2021. Diluted earnings per share in 2022 was $2.77 per share on 78,069 diluted weighted average shares outstanding compared to diluted income of $2.34 per share on 81,628 diluted weighted average shares outstanding in the prior year.
As of December 31, 2022, we had 232 brick-and-mortar retail stores and six e-commerce websites in operation, compared to 214 brick-and-mortar retail stores and six e-commerce websites as of December 31, 2021. This increase resulted from the opening of 28 brick-and-mortar stores, including 12 stores that were acquired through our joint venture in the Middle East, partially offset by the closure of 10 brick-and-mortar stores. The Company also operated 20 concessions in international markets.
Our inventory turnover (calculated on a trailing four quarter average) for the years ended December 31, 2022 and 2021 was 4.9 times and 6.4 times, respectively. Our total Company accounts receivable average collection days were 72 days in 2022 compared to 67 days in 2021. As of December 31, 2022, we had $289,798 in cash, cash equivalents and short-term investments, no debt and total stockholders’ equity of $843,863. Working capital increased to $522,649 as of December 31, 2022, compared to $509,470 on December 31, 2021.
As we look ahead, we remain focused on delivering trend-right product, deepening connections with our consumers, enhancing our digital commerce business, expanding our non-footwear categories, growing our international business and efficiently managing our inventory and expenses while continuing to make meaningful progress on our corporate social responsibility initiatives.
COVID-19
The COVID-19 pandemic has negatively impacted the global economy, disrupted consumer spending and global supply chains, and created significant volatility and disruption of financial markets. Beginning in March 2020, stores have experienced temporary closures, and we implemented precautionary measures in line with guidance from local authorities when stores reopened. The COVID-19 pandemic, and post pandemic recovery, have also significantly impacted our supply chain. In particular, we have experienced disruptions and delays in shipments, increases in shipping costs and increases in the pricing of certain components of our products. The receipt of inventory sourced from impacted areas has been slowed or disrupted and our manufacturers have also faced similar challenges in receiving raw materials and fulfilling our orders.
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RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
Years Ended December 31,
CONSOLIDATED:
Interest and other income/(expense) – net 676 — % (1,529) (0.1) % 1,620 0.1 %
BY SEGMENT:
WHOLESALE FOOTWEAR SEGMENT:
Impairment of intangibles — — % — — % 16,345 2.3 %
WHOLESALE ACCESSORIES/APPAREL SEGMENT:
Impairment of lease right-of-use asset and fixed assets — — % 651 0.2 % — — %
DIRECT-TO-CONSUMER SEGMENT:
Impairment of intangibles — — % — — % 456 0.2 %
FIRST COST SEGMENT:
LICENSING SEGMENT:
CORPORATE:
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The following section discusses our results of operations for 2022 and 2021 and year-to-year comparisons between those periods. Discussions of 2020 and year-to-year comparisons between 2021 and 2020 are not included in this Annual Report on Form 10-K and can be found within Part II, Item 7, “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” in our 2021 Annual Report on Form 10-K filed with the SEC on March 1, 2022.
Year Ended December 31, 2022 vs. Year Ended December 31, 2021
Consolidated:
Total revenue in the year ended December 31, 2022 increased 13.7% to $2,122,009 compared to $1,866,142 for in 2021, with increases in the Wholesale Footwear, Wholesale Accessories/Apparel, and Direct-to-Consumer segments. Gross profit was $873,836, or 41.2% of total revenue, as compared to $767,497, or 41.1% of total revenue, in the prior year. Operating expenses in 2022 were $592,192, or 27.9%, of total revenue, as compared to $519,848, or 27.9% of total revenue, in the prior year. Operating expenses in 2022 include the accelerated amortization of a trademark of $7,050 and a $5,807 benefit from the change in valuation of a contingent consideration. In 2021, impairment charges of $2,620 and $1,432 were recorded associated with certain intangibles and lease right-of-use assets and fixed assets, respectively. No similar impairment charges were recorded in 2022. In the year ended December 31, 2022, income from operations increased to $281,644, or 13.3% of total revenue, as compared to $243,597, or 13.1% of total revenue, in the prior year. The effective tax rate for the year ended December 31, 2022 was 23.1% compared to 20.5% last year. The primary changes between the Company’s effective tax rate for the year ended December 31, 2022 and 2021 are due to a lower tax benefit from the exercising and vesting of equity-based awards and an increase in pre-tax income in jurisdictions with higher tax rates. Net income attributable to Steven Madden, Ltd. for the year ended December 31, 2022 was $216,061 compared to $190,678 for the year ended December 31, 2021.
Wholesale Footwear Segment:
Revenue from the Wholesale Footwear segment in the year ended December 31, 2022 accounted for $1,194,890, or 56.3% of total revenue, as compared to $1,022,322, or 54.8% of total revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2021. The 16.9% increase in revenue in the current year is primarily the result of an increase in sales of our Steve Madden, Anne Klein and Dolce Vita brands. Gross profit was $431,081, or 36.1% of Wholesale Footwear revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2022 as compared to $345,167, or 33.8% of Wholesale Footwear revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2021. The increase of gross profit as a percentage of revenue was primarily due to the shift in revenue mix to our higher-margin branded business partially offset by higher freight costs. Operating expenses in the year ended December 31, 2022 were $166,123, or 13.9%, of Wholesale Footwear revenue, as compared to $128,004, or 12.5% of Wholesale Footwear revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2021. The increase in operating expenses as a percentage of Wholesale Footwear revenue was primarily attributable to higher warehouse expenses, payroll, and advertising expenses. Income from operations increased to $264,958, or 22.2% of Wholesale Footwear revenue in 2022 as compared to $217,163, or 21.2% of Wholesale Footwear revenue, in 2021.
Wholesale Accessories/Apparel Segment:
Revenue from the Wholesale Accessories/Apparel segment in the year ended December 31, 2022 accounted for $394,676, or 18.6% of total revenue, as compared to $343,675, or 18.4% of total revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2021. The 14.8% increase in revenue resulted from an increase in our branded handbag business as well as our apparel business. Gross profit was $100,085, or 25.4% of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2022, as compared to $94,675, or 27.5% of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2021. The decrease of gross profit as a percentage of revenue was primarily due to higher freight costs. Operating expenses in the year ended December 31, 2022 were $70,310, or 17.8%, of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, as compared to $64,776, or 18.8%, of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, in the year ended December 31, 2021. The decrease in operating expenses as a percentage of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue was primarily attributable to greater leverage from higher revenue and benefit from the change in valuation of our contingent consideration, partially offset by the accelerated amortization of a trademark. In 2021, impairment charges of $2,620 and $651 were recorded associated with certain intangibles and lease right-of-use assets and fixed assets, respectively. No similar impairment charges were recorded in 2022. Income from operations for the Wholesale Accessories/Apparel segment in 2022 was $29,775, or 7.5% of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, as compared to $26,628, or 7.7% of Wholesale Accessories/Apparel revenue, in 2021.
Direct-to-Consumer Segment:
In the year ended December 31, 2022, revenue from the Direct-to-Consumer segment accounted for $521,729, or 24.6% of total revenue, as compared to $487,906, or 26.1% of total revenue, in the twelve months of 2021. The 6.9% increase in revenue was driven by increases in both our brick-and-mortar stores and our e-commerce business. We opened 28 brick-and-mortar stores and closed 10 brick-and-mortar stores during the year ended December 31, 2022 and ended the year with 232 brick-and-mortar stores and six e-commerce sites compared to 214 brick-and-mortar stores and six e-commerce sites as of
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December 31, 2021. During the year ended December 31, 2022, gross profit was $331,956, or 63.6% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue, compared to $315,416, or 64.6% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue, in the twelve months of 2021. The decrease in gross profit as a percentage of revenue was primarily due to higher promotional activity, partially offset by a reduction in air freight expense. Operating expenses for the twelve months of 2022 were $264,307, or 50.7% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue, as compared to $240,093, or 49.2% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue, for the twelve months of 2021. The increase in operating expenses as a percentage of Direct-to-Consumer revenue was primarily due to higher advertising and payroll related expenses. In 2021, impairment charges of $781 were recorded associated with certain fixed assets and lease right-of-use assets. No similar impairment charges were recorded in 2022. In 2022, income from operations for the Direct-to-Consumer segment was $67,649, or 13.0% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue as compared to $74,542, or 15.3% of Direct-to-Consumer revenue, in 2021.
First Cost Segment:
Commission income generated by the First Cost segment accounted for $916 for the year ended December 31, 2022 compared to $2,346, or 0.1% of total revenue, for the year ended December 31, 2021. Operating expenses decreased to $150 in the current period compared to $375 of last year. Income from operations was $766 for the year ended December 31, 2022 as compared to income from operations of $1,971 for the year ended December 31, 2021.
Licensing Segment:
Royalty income generated by the Licensing segment accounted for $9,798, or 0.5% of total revenue, for the year ended December 31, 2022 compared to $9,893, or 0.5% of total revenue, for the year ended December 31, 2021. Operating expenses increased to $1,944 in the current year compared to $1,785 to last year. Income from the Licensing segment was $7,854 for the year ended December 31, 2022 as compared to $8,108 in the prior year.
Corporate:
Corporate does not constitute a reportable segment and includes costs not directly attributable to the segments. These costs are primarily related to expenses associated with corporate executives, corporate finance, legal, human resources, information technology, cyber security, corporate social responsibility, and other shared services. Corporate operating expenses increased 5.4% to $89,358 during the year ended December 31, 2022 as compared to $84,815 in the prior year.
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LIQUIDITY AND CAPITAL RESOURCES
Our primary sources of liquidity are cash flows from operations, cash, cash equivalents and short-term investments. Cash, cash equivalents and short-term investments totaled $289,798 and $263,536 at December 31, 2022 and December 31, 2021, respectively. Of the total cash, cash equivalents and short-term investments as of December 31, 2022, $133,729, or approximately 46%, was held in our foreign subsidiaries, and of the total cash, cash equivalents and short-term investments at December 31, 2021, $156,112, or approximately 59%, was held in our foreign subsidiaries.
On July 22, 2020, we entered into a $150,000, five-year, asset-based revolving credit facility with various lenders and Citizens Bank, N.A. On March 25, 2022, we entered into an amendment to the revolving credit facility, which replaced the London Interbank Offering Rate (“LIBOR”) with the Bloomberg Short-Term Bank Yield Index (“BSBY”) as the interest rate benchmark, among other changes.
As of December 31, 2022, we had working capital of $522,649, cash and cash equivalents of $274,713, and short-term investments of $15,085 and no cash borrowing and $503.9 letters of credit outstanding unrelated to the Credit Agreement.
We believe that based on our current financial position and available cash, cash equivalents and short-term investments, we will meet all our financial commitments and operating needs for at least the next twelve months. In addition, our $150,000 asset-based revolving credit facility provides us with additional liquidity and flexibility on a long-term basis.
Operating Activities
Cash provided by operations was $267,883 in 2022 compared to $159,463 in the prior year. The improvement in cash provided by operations was primarily driven by favorable changes in receivables, inventories, and an increase in net income, partially offset by unfavorable changes in accounts payable and accrued expenses.
Investing Activities
Cash provided by investing activities was $5,517 for the year ended December 31, 2022, which consisted of cash received of $73,998 from the maturities and sales of short-term investments partially offset by purchases of $45,130 in short-term investments. We also made capital expenditures of $16,351, which were mainly for systems enhancements, new store openings and leasehold improvements. We also had investments of $7,000, of which $2,000 consisted of a purchase of a trademark and $5,000 related to other investing activities.
Financing Activities
During the year ended December 31, 2022, net cash used in financing activities was $215,828, which primarily consisted of share repurchases of $148,878 and cash dividends paid of $66,005.
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Contractual Obligations
Our contractual obligations as of December 31, 2022 were as follows:
Payment due by period
Substantially all our products are produced by independent manufacturers at overseas locations, the majority of which are located in China, with a growing percentage located in Cambodia, Mexico, Brazil and some European nations. We have not entered into any long-term manufacturing or supply contracts with any of these foreign manufacturers. We believe that a sufficient number of alternative sources exist outside of the United States for the manufacture of our products. Purchases are made primarily in United States dollars.
We have employment agreements with our Creative and Design Chief, Steven Madden, and certain executive officers, which provide for the payment of compensation aggregating to approximately $9,675 in 2023, $8,998 in 2024 and $7,851 in 2025. In addition, some of these employment agreements provide for discretionary bonuses and some provide for incentive compensation based on various performance criteria as well as other benefits, including stock-related compensation.
Transition tax of $11,721 was the result of the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2017 (the "Tax Act"). For further information, refer to Note N – Income Taxes to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in this Annual Report on Form 10-K. Excluded from the contractual obligations table above are long-term taxes payable of $1,145 as of December 31, 2022 primarily related to uncertain tax positions, for which we are unable to make a reasonably reliable estimate of the timing of payments in individual years beyond one year due to uncertainties in the timing of tax audit outcomes.
Dividends
In February 2022, our Board of Directors declared a quarterly cash dividend of $0.21 per share on our outstanding shares of common stock. The dividend was paid on March 25, 2022, to stockholders of record as of the close of business on March 11, 2022. We paid total cash dividends for the three months ended March 31, 2022 of $16,774.
In April 2022, our Board of Directors declared a quarterly cash dividend of $0.21 per share on our outstanding shares of common stock. The dividend was paid on June 24, 2022, to stockholders of record as of the close of business on June 13, 2022. We paid total cash dividends for the three months ended June 30, 2022 of $16,615.
In July 2022, our Board of Directors declared a quarterly cash dividend of $0.21 per share on our outstanding shares of common stock. The dividend was paid on September 26, 2022, to stockholders of record as of the close of business on September 16, 2022. We paid total cash dividends for the three months ended September 30, 2022 of $16,385.
In November 2022, our Board of Directors declared a quarterly cash dividend of $0.21 per share on our outstanding shares of common stock. The dividend was paid on December 30, 2022, to stockholders of record as of the close of business on December 16, 2022. We paid total cash dividends for the three months ended December 31, 2022 of $16,231.
On February 22, 2023, our Board of Directors approved a quarterly cash dividend. The quarterly dividend of $0.21 per share is payable on March 24, 2023 to stockholders of record as of the close of business on March 10, 2023.
Future quarterly cash dividend payments are subject to the discretion of our Board of Directors and contingent upon future earnings, our financial condition, capital requirements, general business conditions, and other factors. Therefore, we can give no assurance that dividends will be paid to holders of our common stock in the future.
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Inflation
Inflation and cost pressures including increasing raw material, labor and freight costs have had a significant impact on our profitability in the fiscal year ended December 31, 2022 and elevated prices are expected to continue in 2023. We have minimized the impact of product, wage and freight cost increases by raising prices, renegotiating costs, changing suppliers and improving operating efficiencies. However, no assurance can be given that we will be able to offset any such inflationary cost increases in the future.
CRITICAL ACCOUNTING POLICIES AND THE USE OF ESTIMATES
Management believes the following critical accounting estimates are the most significantly affected by judgments and assumptions used in the preparation of our consolidated financial statements: allowances for doubtful accounts; markdowns and chargeback allowances, co-op advertising allowances, customer returns; inventory valuation; valuation of intangible assets and goodwill; and impairment of other long-lived assets. Our estimates are made based upon historical factors, current and future circumstances and market conditions, and the experience and judgment of management. Assumptions and estimates are evaluated on an ongoing basis, and we may employ outside experts to assist in the valuation process of our intangible assets, goodwill, and other long-lived assets.
Allowances for doubtful accounts. A vast majority of our customers’ receivable balances are protected under our factoring and collection agency agreement with Rosenthal & Rosenthal, Inc. (“Rosenthal”), described in Note Q – Factoring Agreement to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in this Form 10-K. Under this agreement, Rosenthal assumes the credit risk resulting from a customer’s financial inability to make payment of credit-approved receivables. We also use risk insurance, letters of credit and put agreements to mitigate credit risk for a significant portion of the receivables not covered under our Rosenthal agreement. The balance of receivables not covered under our Rosenthal agreement is reduced by an allowance for amounts that may be uncollectible in the future.
The estimated allowance for doubtful accounts is based on an analysis of the aging of accounts receivable, assessments of collectability based on historical trends, the financial condition of our customers and an evaluation of economic conditions. Differences in management’s estimation of the above factors could impact our results of operations and financial position. The balances of allowances for doubtful accounts are generally correlated with our revenues from wholesale customers whose receivables are not covered under our Rosenthal agreement, and actual losses have historically been within our expectations and in line with the allowances we have established. The balances and activity in the allowances for doubtful accounts are presented in Note T – Valuation and Qualifying Accounts to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in this Form 10-K. A hypothetical 5% increase in our allowance for doubtful accounts as of December 31, 2022 would have increased our 2022 operating expenses by approximately $400.
Markdowns, chargebacks, co-op advertising, and customer returns. As described in Note B – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in this Form 10-K, we provide variable consideration to our wholesale customers to maximize sales of our product on the retail floor, in the form of markdowns and chargeback allowances, co-op advertising allowances, and return reserves related to the current period sales.
a.Markdowns and chargeback allowances. We evaluate anticipated customer markdowns and chargeback allowances by reviewing several performance indicators for our major customers. These performance indicators, which include inventory levels on the retail floors, sell through rates to the end consumer and gross margin levels, are analyzed by management to estimate the amount of customer allowances. We also discuss product performance with our retail partners on an ongoing basis to gather more intelligence to inform our estimation process. Differences in management’s estimation of the above factors from period to period could impact our results of operations and financial position. The levels of markdown and chargeback allowances are generally correlated with our revenues to wholesale customers. A hypothetical 5% increase in the reserve balance for markdowns and chargeback allowances as of December 31, 2022 would have decreased our 2022 revenue by approximately $1,000.
b.Co-op advertising allowances. Under our co-op advertising programs, we agree to reimburse the retailer for a portion of the costs incurred by the retailer to advertise and promote some of our products. We estimate the costs of co-op advertising programs based on the terms of the agreements with our customers. Differences in management’s estimation of the co-op advertising activity at our customers and the resulting amount of the reserve for these allowances from period to period could impact our results of operations and financial position. The level of co-op advertising support is generally correlated with our revenues to wholesale customers. A hypothetical 5% increase in the reserve balance for co-op advertising allowances as of December 31, 2022 would have decreased our 2022 revenue by approximately $300.
c.Return reserve. Our Direct-to-Consumer segment accepts returns within 30 days from the date of a sale. We estimate a return reserve in the Direct-to-Consumer segment by establishing a return rate using historical returns data. The rate is then applied to eligible revenues recorded in the current period to calculate the reserve. We do not accept returns as a normal business practice in our wholesale segments, except for our Blondo, Dolce Vita and BB Dakota product lines. We estimate such returns based on historical experience and current market conditions. In addition, our wholesale segments may, from time to time, accept returns for damaged products from our wholesale customers on which our
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costs are normally charged back to the responsible third-party factory. The level of returns is generally correlated with our revenues to wholesale customers. A hypothetical 5% increase in the return reserve as of December 31, 2022 would have decreased our 2022 revenue by approximately $200.
The balances and activity in the markdown, chargeback and co-op advertising allowances are included in Note T – Valuation and Qualifying Accounts to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in this Form 10-K.
Inventory valuation. Inventories are stated at the lower of cost or net realizable value, on a first-in, first-out basis. We review inventory on a regular basis for excess and slow-moving inventory. The review is based on an analysis of the age and styles of inventory on hand, historical sales of the same or similar products, and expected net realizable value through future sales. The analysis includes a review of inventory quantities on hand at period-end in relation to year-to-date sales and projections for sales in the foreseeable future as well as subsequent sales and discussions with both traditional and off-price retailers. We consider quantities on hand in excess of estimated future sales to be at risk for market impairment. The estimated net realizable value is determined based on the estimate of selling prices of inventory through off-price and discount store channels, department stores and our own direct-to-consumer channel. The likelihood of any material inventory write-down is dependent primarily on the expectation of future consumer demand for our products, which is influenced by consumer trends, economic and market conditions, weather patterns for seasonal goods and the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic. A misinterpretation or misunderstanding of future consumer demand for our products due to these or any other factors could result in inventory valuation changes compared to the valuation determined to be appropriate as of the balance sheet date.
In general, our inventory obsolescence estimates have historically been within our expectations and in line with the reserves established, and although possible, significant variation is not expected in the future. A hypothetical 5% increase to inventory reserves at December 31, 2022 would have decreased our 2022 gross profit by approximately $400.
Valuation of intangible assets and goodwill. Goodwill and other intangible assets deemed to have indefinite useful lives are not amortized. These assets are tested for impairment at least annually on the first day of the third quarter, or more frequently if impairment indicators are present. Intangible assets with finite lives are amortized over their estimated useful lives and tested for impairment if indicators are present.
Our annual impairment assessment of goodwill and indefinite-lived intangible assets is generally performed using a qualitative approach to determine whether it is more likely than not that the fair value of a reporting unit or intangible asset is less than its carrying amount. Performance of the qualitative impairment assessment requires judgment in identifying and considering the significance of relevant events and circumstances including external factors, such as macroeconomic and industry conditions (including the COVID-19 pandemic) and the legal and regulatory environment, as well as entity-specific factors, such as actual and planned financial performance, that could impact the fair value of our reporting units and indefinite-lived intangible assets. The results of our most recent quantitative tests are also considered in performing the qualitative assessment.
If the results of the annual qualitative assessment conclude that it is not more likely than not that the fair value of a reporting unit or an indefinite-lived intangible asset exceeds its carrying value, or if interim indicators of impairment are identified, a quantitative impairment test is performed.
A quantitative impairment test involves comparing the fair value of a reporting unit or intangible asset with its carrying value. If the fair value is less than the carrying value, an impairment loss is recorded for an amount equal to the excess of the carrying value over the fair value. For goodwill, the impairment loss is limited to the amount of the respective reporting unit’s allocated goodwill. Determination of the fair value of a reporting unit or indefinite-lived intangible asset is subjective in nature and involves the use of significant estimates and assumptions including consideration of external factors, such as macroeconomic and industry conditions (including the COVID-19 pandemic) and the legal and regulatory environment, as well as entity-specific factors such as actual and planned financial performance. These estimates and assumptions could have a significant impact on whether an impairment charge is recognized and the amount of any such charge. Estimates of fair value are primarily determined using discounted cash flows, market comparisons and recent transactions. These approaches use significant estimates and assumptions, including projected future cash flows, discount rates, growth rates, and determination of appropriate market comparisons. It is possible that our conclusions regarding impairment of goodwill or other intangible assets could change in future periods if, for example, our businesses do not perform as projected or overall economic conditions in future periods vary from current assumptions.
Our annual impairment tests were last performed as of July 1, 2022 using a qualitative assessment, the results of which indicated that it is more likely than not that the fair values of our reporting units and indefinite-lived intangible assets significantly exceeded their carrying values. A hypothetical 10% decrease in the fair values of our reporting units and our indefinite-lived intangible assets as of December 31, 2022 would not have resulted in any impairment charges. No goodwill or intangible asset impairment charges were recorded as a result of our annual impairment tests during any of the years presented in this Form 10-K.
During the fourth quarter of 2021, certain decisions were made by the Company that resulted in the change in the useful life of the BB Dakota trademark from an indefinite to a finite life. As a result, the BB Dakota trademark was assessed for impairment. The estimated fair value of this trademark was determined using an excess earnings method, incorporating the use of projected financial information and a discount rate, which was developed using market participant-based assumptions. As a result of this assessment, the BB Dakota trademark was written down from the carrying value of $9,670 to its fair value of
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$7,050, resulting in a pre-tax, non-cash impairment charge of $2,620. This charge was recorded in impairment of intangibles in the Company’s Consolidated Statements of Income/ (Loss) and recognized in the Wholesale Accessories/Apparel segment. The fair value of $7,050 was amortized over its remaining useful life of one year and was fully amortized at the end of 2022.
As a result of the COVID-19 pandemic and decline in the macroeconomic environment, during the twelve months ended December 31, 2020, the Company’s Cejon, Report, GREATS and Jocelyn trademarks (indefinite-lived intangibles) were written down from an aggregate carrying value of $57,198 to their fair values of $12,925, resulting in a pre-tax non-cash impairment charge of $44,273. These charges were recorded in impairment of intangibles in the Company’s Consolidated Statements of Income/ (Loss) and recognized in three reporting units: $27,472 related to Wholesale Accessories/Apparel, $16,345 related to Wholesale Footwear and $456 related to the Direct-to-Consumer segments, respectively. The estimated fair values of these trademarks were determined using an excess earnings method, incorporating the use of projected financial information and a discount rate, which was developed using market participant-based assumptions.
See Note G – Goodwill and Intangible Assets to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in this Form 10-K for further detail and impairment charges.
Impairment of other long-lived assets. We evaluate other long-lived assets, including property and equipment and operating lease right-of-use assets, for impairment periodically whenever events or changes in circumstances indicate, in management’s judgment, that the carrying value of such assets or asset groups may not be recoverable (as described in Note F – Property and Equipment and Note M – Leases to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in this Form 10-K).
In evaluating long-lived assets for recoverability, we use our best estimate of future cash flows expected to result from the use of the asset or asset group and its eventual disposition, where applicable. Estimates of future cash flows include consideration of macroeconomic trends (including the COVID-19 pandemic) such as consumer spending and entity-specific plans and strategies.
If such estimated future cash flows are less than the asset or asset group’s carrying value, an impairment loss is recognized to the extent the asset or asset group’s carrying value exceeds its fair value. Individual assets in an asset group are not written down below their individual fair value. Fair value is estimated considering external market participant assumptions and discounted cash flows, including those based on estimated market rents for operating lease right-of-use assets. It is possible that our conclusions regarding impairment of long-lived assets could change in future periods if, for example, future cash flows do not meet expectations because of unforeseen adverse future economic and market conditions that negatively impact consumer behavior or spending patterns or market rents decrease significantly.
During 2022, no impairment indicators were identified on long-lived assets; therefore, no impairment was recorded.
During 2021, we recorded an impairment loss of $1,432 on long-lived assets. The carrying value of long-lived assets that had an indicator of impairment as of December 31, 2021 was less than 5% of the balance of long-lived assets at December 31, 2021. Therefore, changes to assumptions of future cash flows or market rents would not have materially impacted the impairment charge.
In 2020, due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the Company’s operations and the decline in the retail real estate market, the Company identified indicators of impairment for long-lived assets at certain retail stores. As described in Note G – Goodwill and Intangible Assets and Note M – Leases in this Form 10-K, the Company recorded an aggregate impairment charge of $36,895 related to long-lived assets at such retail stores.
See Note G – Goodwill and Intangible Assets and Note M – Leases in this Form 10-K to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in this Form 10-K for further detail and impairment charges.
ITEM 7A. QUANTITATIVE AND QUALITATIVE DISCLOSURES ABOUT MARKET RISK
($ in thousands)
Interest Rate Risk
We do not engage in the trading of market risk sensitive instruments in the normal course of business. Our financing arrangements are subject to variable interest rates, primarily based on the prime rate and the BSBY. The terms of our $150,000 asset-based revolving credit agreement (the “Credit Facility”) and our collection agency agreement with Rosenthal & Rosenthal, Inc. can be found in the Liquidity and Capital Resources section of Item 7 and in Note P – Credit Agreement and Note Q – Factoring Agreement, respectively, to the Consolidated Financial Statements included in this Form 10-K. Because we had no cash borrowings under the Credit Facility as of December 31, 2022, a 10% change in interest rates, with all other variables held constant, would have an immaterial effect on our reported interest expense.
As of December 31, 2022, we held short-term investments valued at $15,085, which consist of certificates of deposit. We have the ability to hold these investments until maturity.
30
Foreign Currency Exchange Rate Risk
We face market risk to the extent that our U.S. or foreign operations involve the transaction of business in foreign currencies. In addition, our inventory purchases are primarily done in foreign jurisdictions and inventory purchases may be impacted by fluctuations in the exchange rates between the U.S. dollar and the local currencies of our contract manufacturers, which could have the effect of increasing the cost of goods sold in the future. We manage these risks primarily by denominating these purchases in U.S. dollars. To mitigate the risk of purchases that are denominated in foreign currencies we may enter into forward foreign exchange contracts for terms of no more than two years. A description of our accounting policies for derivative financial instruments is included in Note B and Note L to the Consolidated Financial Statements.
During 2022, we entered into forward foreign exchange contracts with notional amounts totaling $74,869. We performed a sensitivity analysis based on a model that measures the impact of a hypothetical change in foreign currency exchange rates to determine the effects that market risk exposures may have on the fair values of our forward foreign exchange contracts that were outstanding as of the year-end. As of December 31, 2022, a 10% increase or decrease of the U.S. dollar against the exchange rates for foreign currencies under forward foreign exchange contracts, with all other variables held constant, would result in a net increase or decrease in the fair value of our derivatives portfolio of approximately $6,989.
In addition, we are exposed to translation risk in connection with our foreign operations in Canada, Mexico, Europe, South Africa, China, Taiwan, Israel, Malaysia, and the Middle East because our subsidiaries and joint ventures in these countries utilize the local currency as their functional currency, and those financial results are translated into U.S. dollars. As currency exchange rates fluctuate, foreign currency exchange rate translation adjustments reflected in our financial statements with respect to our foreign operations affects the comparability of financial results between years.
31
ITEM 8. FINANCIAL STATEMENTS AND SUPPLEMENTARY DATA
The information required by this Item is incorporated herein by reference to the consolidated financial statements listed in response to Item 15 of Part IV of this Annual Report on Form 10-K.
ITEM 9. CHANGES IN AND DISAGREEMENTS WITH ACCOUNTANTS ON ACCOUNTING AND FINANCIAL DISCLOSURE
Not applicable.
ITEM 9A. CONTROLS AND PROCEDURES
Disclosure Controls and Procedures
As required by Rule 13a-15(b) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, as amended (the "Exchange Act"), our management, including our Chief Executive Officer and Chief Financial Officer, has evaluated the effectiveness of our disclosure controls and procedures as of the end of the fiscal year covered by this Annual Report on Form 10-K. Based on that evaluation, the Chief Executive Officer and Chief Financial Officer have concluded that our disclosure controls and procedures (as defined in Rule 13a-15(e) under the Exchange Act) were effective as of the end of the fiscal year covered by this Annual Report on Form 10-K.
Management's Annual Report on Internal Control Over Financial Reporting
Management of Steven Madden, Ltd. is responsible for establishing and maintaining adequate internal control over financial reporting (as defined in Rule 13a-15(f) of the Exchange Act).
Our internal control over financial reporting is a process designed by, or under the supervision of, our principal executive officer and principal financial officer, and effected by the Board of Directors, management, and other personnel, to provide reasonable assurance regarding the reliability of financial reporting and the preparation of financial statements for external purposes in accordance with accounting principles generally accepted in the United States of America ("GAAP"). Our internal control over financial reporting includes those policies and procedures that (1) pertain to maintenance of records that, in reasonable detail, accurately and fairly reflect the transactions and dispositions of our assets; (2) provide reasonable assurance that transactions are recorded as necessary to permit preparation of financial statements in accordance with GAAP, and that our receipts and expenditures are being made only in accordance with authorizations of our management and directors; and (3) provide reasonable assurance regarding prevention or timely detection of unauthorized acquisition, use, or disposition of our assets that could have a material effect on the financial statements.
Because of its inherent limitations, internal control over financial reporting may not prevent or detect all misstatements. Also, projections of any evaluation of effectiveness to future periods are subject to the risk that controls may become inadequate because of changes in conditions, or that the degree of compliance with the policies or procedures may deteriorate.
With the participation of the Chief Executive Officer and the Chief Financial Officer, our management conducted an evaluation of the effectiveness, as of the end of our fiscal year ended December 31, 2022, of our internal control over financial reporting based on the framework and criteria established in the 2013 Internal Control-Integrated Framework, issued by the Committee of Sponsoring Organizations of the Treadway Commission (COSO). Based on this evaluation our management has concluded that, as of December 31, 2022, our internal control over financial reporting was effective.
Our independent registered public accounting firm, Ernst & Young LLP, has audited our consolidated financial statements and the effectiveness of our internal control over financial reporting as of December 31, 2022. Their attestation report appears in this Annual Report on Form 10-K.
Changes in Internal Control Over Financial Reporting
There was no change in our internal control over financial reporting, as identified in connection with the evaluation required by paragraph (d) of Rule 13a-15 of the Exchange Act, that occurred during the fiscal quarter ended December 31, 2022, which has materially affected, or is reasonably likely to materially affect, our internal control over financial reporting.
ITEM 9B. OTHER INFORMATION
Not applicable.
32
ITEM 9C. DISCLOSURE REGARDING FOREIGN JURISDICTIONS THAT PREVENT INSPECTIONS
Not applicable.
PART III
ITEM 10. DIRECTORS, EXECUTIVE OFFICERS AND CORPORATE GOVERNANCE
The information required to be furnished pursuant to this Item will be set forth in our proxy statement for the 2023 Annual Meeting of Stockholders and is incorporated herein by reference.
ITEM 11. EXECUTIVE COMPENSATION
The information required to be furnished pursuant to this Item will be set forth in our proxy statement for the 2023 Annual Meeting of Stockholders and is incorporated herein by reference.
ITEM 12. SECURITY OWNERSHIP OF CERTAIN BENEFICIAL OWNERS AND MANAGEMENT AND RELATED STOCKHOLDER MATTERS
The information required to be furnished pursuant to this Item will be set forth in our proxy statement for the 2023 Annual Meeting of Stockholders and is incorporated herein by reference.
ITEM 13. CERTAIN RELATIONSHIPS AND RELATED TRANSACTIONS, AND DIRECTOR INDEPENDENCE
The information required to be furnished pursuant to this Item will be set forth in our proxy statement for the 2023 Annual Meeting of Stockholders and is incorporated herein by reference.
ITEM 14. PRINCIPAL ACCOUNTING FEES AND SERVICES
The information required to be furnished pursuant to this Item will be set forth in our proxy statement for the 2023 Annual Meeting of Stockholders and is incorporated herein by reference.
PART IV
ITEM 15. EXHIBITS AND FINANCIAL STATEMENT SCHEDULES
(a) Exhibits.
See the Exhibit Index included herein.
(b) Financial Statements and Financial Statements Schedules
See Index to Consolidated Financial Statements included herein.
33
Exhibit Index
34
10.30 Form of Acknowledgment of Clawback Policy†#
21.01 Subsidiaries of the Registrant†
23.01 Consent of Ernst & Young LLP†
35
24.01 Power of Attorney (included on signature page hereto)
† Filed herewith.
# Indicates management contract or compensatory plan or arrangement required to be identified pursuant to Item 15(b) of this Annual Report on Form 10-K.
* This exhibit shall not be deemed “filed” for purposes of Section 18 of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, as amended, or otherwise subject to the liability of that section, nor shall it be deemed incorporated by reference into any filing under the Securities Act of 1933, as amended, or the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, as amended, whether made before or after the date hereof and irrespective of any general incorporation language in any filing, except to the extent the Company specifically incorporates it by reference.
ITEM 16. FORM 10-K SUMMARY
None.
36
SIGNATURES
Pursuant to the requirements of Section 13 or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, the Registrant has duly caused this report to be signed on its behalf by the undersigned thereunto duly authorized.
DATE: March 1, 2023
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD.
/s/ EDWARD R. ROSENFELD
Edward R. Rosenfeld
Chairman and Chief Executive Officer
/s/ ZINE MAZOUZI
Zine Mazouzi
Chief Financial Officer
37
POWER OF ATTORNEY
KNOW ALL PERSONS BY THESE PRESENTS, that each of the undersigned constitutes and appoints Edward R. Rosenfeld and Zine Mazouzi, and each of them, as attorneys-in-fact and agents, with full power of substitution and re-substitution, for and in the name, place and stead of the undersigned, in any and all capacities, to sign any and all amendments to this Annual Report on Form 10-K, and to file the same, with all exhibits thereto and all other documents in connection therewith, with the Securities and Exchange Commission, granting unto said attorneys-in-fact and agents full power and authority to do and perform each and every act and thing requisite and necessary to be done in and about the premises, as fully to all intents and purposes as the undersigned might or could do in person, hereby ratifying and confirming all that each of said attorney-in-fact or substitute or substitutes, may lawfully do or cause to be done by virtue hereof.
Pursuant to the requirements of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, this report has been signed below by the following persons on behalf of the registrant in the capacities and on the dates indicated.
Signature Title Date
Edward R. Rosenfeld
/s/ ZINE MAZOUZI Chief Financial Officer March 1, 2023
Zine Mazouzi
/s/ AMELIA NEWTON VARELA President and Director March 1, 2023
Amelia Newton Varela
/s/ PETER DAVIS Director March 1, 2023
Peter Davis
/s/ AL FERRARA Director March 1, 2023
Al Ferrara
/s/ ROSE LYNCH Director March 1, 2023
Rose Lynch
/s/ MITCHELL S. KLIPPER Director March 1, 2023
Mitchell S. Klipper
/s/ MARÍA TERESA KUMAR Director March 1, 2023
María Teresa Kumar
/s/ PETER MIGLIORINI Director March 1, 2023
Peter Migliorini
/s/ RAVI SACHDEV Director March 1, 2023
Ravi Sachdev
/s/ ARIAN SIMONE REED Director March 1, 2023
Arian Simone Reed
/s/ ROBERT SMITH Director March 1, 2023
Robert Smith
38
INDEX TO CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
Reports of Independent Registered Public Accounting Firm [PCAOB ID No. 42] F-1
Consolidated Balance Sheets as of December 31, 2022 and 2021 F-4
Notes to Consolidated Financial Statements F-9
Report of Independent Registered Public Accounting Firm
To the Stockholders and the Board of Directors of Steven Madden, Ltd.
Opinion on the Financial Statements
We have audited the accompanying consolidated balance sheets of Steven Madden, Ltd. and subsidiaries(the Company) as of December 31, 2022 and 2021, the related consolidated statements of income/(loss), comprehensive income/(loss), changes in stockholders' equity and cash flows for each of the three years in the period ended December 31, 2022, and the related notes (collectively referred to as the “consolidated financial statements”). In our opinion, the consolidated financial statements present fairly, in all material respects, the financial position of the Company at December 31, 2022 and 2021, and the results of its operations and its cash flows for each of the three years in the period ended December 31, 2022, in conformity with U.S. generally accepted accounting principles.
We also have audited, in accordance with the standards of the Public Company Accounting Oversight Board (United States) (PCAOB), the Company's internal control over financial reporting as of December 31, 2022, based on criteria established in Internal Control-Integrated Framework issued by the Committee of Sponsoring Organizations of the Treadway Commission (2013 framework) and our report dated March 1, 2023 expressed an unqualified opinion thereon.
Basis for Opinion
These financial statements are the responsibility of the Company's management. Our responsibility is to express an opinion on the Company’s financial statements based on our audits. We are a public accounting firm registered with the PCAOB and are required to be independent with respect to the Company in accordance with the U.S. federal securities laws and the applicable rules and regulations of the Securities and Exchange Commission and the PCAOB.
We conducted our audits in accordance with the standards of the PCAOB. Those standards require that we plan and perform the audit to obtain reasonable assurance about whether the financial statements are free of material misstatement, whether due to error or fraud. Our audits included performing procedures to assess the risks of material misstatement of the financial statements, whether due to error or fraud, and performing procedures that respond to those risks. Such procedures included examining, on a test basis, evidence regarding the amounts and disclosures in the financial statements. Our audits also included evaluating the accounting principles used and significant estimates made by management, as well as evaluating the overall presentation of the financial statements. We believe that our audits provide a reasonable basis for our opinion.
Critical Audit Matter
The critical audit matter communicated below is a matter arising from the current period audit of the financial statements that was communicated or required to be communicated to the audit committee and that: (1) relates to accounts or disclosures that are material to the financial statements and (2) involved our especially challenging, subjective or complex judgments. The communication of the critical audit matter does not alter in any way our opinion on the consolidated financial statements, taken as a whole, and we are not, by communicating the critical audit matter below, providing a separate opinion on the critical audit matter or on the accounts or disclosures to which it relates.
F-4
Markdown Allowances
/s/ Ernst & Young LLP
We have served as the Company’s auditor since 2020.
New York, New York
March 1, 2023
F-4
Report of Independent Registered Public Accounting Firm
To the Stockholders and the Board of Directors of Steven Madden, Ltd.
Opinion on Internal Control Over Financial Reporting
We have audited Steven Madden, Ltd. and subsidiaries’ internal control over financial reporting as of December 31, 2022, based on criteria established in Internal Control—Integrated Framework issued by the Committee of Sponsoring Organizations of the Treadway Commission (2013 framework) (the COSO criteria). In our opinion, Steven Madden, Ltd. and subsidiaries (the Company) maintained, in all material respects, effective internal control over financial reporting as of December 31, 2022, based on the COSO criteria.
We also have audited, in accordance with the standards of the Public Company Accounting Oversight Board (United States) (PCAOB), the consolidated balance sheets of the Company as of December 31, 2022 and 2021, the related consolidated statements of income/(loss), comprehensive income/(loss), changes in stockholders’ equity and cash flows for each of the three years in the period ended December 31, 2022, and the related notes and our report dated March 1, 2023 expressed an unqualified opinion thereon.
Basis for Opinion
The Company’s management is responsible for maintaining effective internal control over financial reporting and for its assessment of the effectiveness of internal control over financial reporting included in the accompanying Management’s Annual Report on Internal Control Over Financial Reporting. Our responsibility is to express an opinion on the Company’s internal control over financial reporting based on our audit. We are a public accounting firm registered with the PCAOB and are required to be independent with respect to the Company in accordance with the U.S. federal securities laws and the applicable rules and regulations of the Securities and Exchange Commission and the PCAOB.
We conducted our audit in accordance with the standards of the PCAOB. Those standards require that we plan and perform the audit to obtain reasonable assurance about whether effective internal control over financial reporting was maintained in all material respects.
Our audit included obtaining an understanding of internal control over financial reporting, assessing the risk that a material weakness exists, testing and evaluating the design and operating effectiveness of internal control based on the assessed risk, and performing such other procedures as we considered necessary in the circumstances. We believe that our audit provides a reasonable basis for our opinion.
Definition and Limitations of Internal Control Over Financial Reporting
A company’s internal control over financial reporting is a process designed to provide reasonable assurance regarding the reliability of financial reporting and the preparation of financial statements for external purposes in accordance with generally accepted accounting principles. A company’s internal control over financial reporting includes those policies and procedures that (1) pertain to the maintenance of records that, in reasonable detail, accurately and fairly reflect the transactions and dispositions of the assets of the company; (2) provide reasonable assurance that transactions are recorded as necessary to permit preparation of financial statements in accordance with generally accepted accounting principles, and that receipts and expenditures of the company are being made only in accordance with authorizations of management and directors of the company; and (3) provide reasonable assurance regarding prevention or timely detection of unauthorized acquisition, use, or disposition of the company’s assets that could have a material effect on the financial statements.
Because of its inherent limitations, internal control over financial reporting may not prevent or detect misstatements. Also, projections of any evaluation of effectiveness to future periods are subject to the risk that controls may become inadequate because of changes in conditions, or that the degree of compliance with the policies or procedures may deteriorate.
/s/ Ernst & Young LLP
New York, New York
March 1, 2023
F-4
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
Consolidated Balance Sheets
As of December 31,
ASSETS
Current assets:
Prepaid expenses and other current assets 22,989 20,845
Income tax receivable and prepaid income taxes 15,853 13,538
Note receivable – related party 401 794
LIABILITIES
Current liabilities:
Contingent payment liability – current portion 1,153 5,109
Contingent payment liability — 6,960
Commitments, contingencies and other (Note O)
STOCKHOLDERS’ EQUITY
Accumulated other comprehensive loss (35,709) (29,544)
Total Steven Madden, Ltd. stockholders’ equity 831,553 812,098
See accompanying notes to consolidated financial statements
F-4
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss)
Years Ended December 31,
Impairment of lease right-of-use assets and fixed assets — 1,432 36,895
Interest and other income/(expense) - net 676 (1,529) 1,620
Less: net income attributable to noncontrolling interest 1,156 1,781 116
Basic net income/(loss) per share $ 2.84 $ 2.43 $ (0.23)
Diluted net income/(loss) per share $ 2.77 $ 2.34 $ (0.23)
Effect of dilutive securities – options/restricted stock 2,048 3,186 —
Cash dividends declared per common share $ 0.84 $ 0.60 $ 0.15
See accompanying notes to consolidated financial statements
F-5
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
Consolidated Statements of Comprehensive Income/(Loss)
(in thousands) Pre-tax amounts Tax benefit After-tax amounts
Other comprehensive (loss):
Foreign currency translation adjustment $ (6,681) $ — (6,681)
(Loss) on cash flow hedging derivatives (788) 239 (549)
Total other comprehensive (loss) $ (7,469) $ 239 (7,230)
Less: comprehensive income attributable to noncontrolling interests 91
Comprehensive income attributable to Steven Madden, Ltd. $ 209,896
(in thousands) Pre-tax amounts Tax expense After-tax amounts
Other comprehensive income:
Foreign currency translation adjustment $ (991) $ — (991)
Total other comprehensive income 460 (375) 85
Less: comprehensive income attributable to noncontrolling interests 2,246
Comprehensive income attributable to Steven Madden, Ltd. $ 190,298
(in thousands) Pre-tax amounts Tax benefit After-tax amounts
Other comprehensive income:
Foreign currency translation adjustment $ 2,551 $ — 2,551
(Loss) on cash flow hedging derivatives (526) 134 (392)
Comprehensive loss (16,122)
Less: comprehensive income attributable to noncontrolling interests 999
Comprehensive loss attributable to Steven Madden, Ltd. $ (17,121)
See accompanying notes to consolidated financial statements
F-6
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
Consolidated Statements of Changes in Stockholders' Equity
(in thousands except share data) Shares Amount Shares Amount
Issuance of restricted stock, net of forfeitures 413 — — — — — — — —
Stock-based compensation — — 22,639 — — — — — 22,639
Foreign currency translation adjustment — — — — 1,668 — — 883 2,551
Cash flow hedge (net of tax benefit of $134) — — — — (392) — — — (392)
Dividends on common stock ($0.15 per share) — — — (12,459) — — — — (12,459)
Investment of noncontrolling interest — — — — — — — 359 359
Acquisition of noncontrolling interest — — — — — — — (298) (298)
Issuance of restricted stock, net of forfeitures 371 — — — — — — — —
Stock-based compensation — — 22,278 — — — — — 22,278
Foreign currency translation adjustment — — — — (1,456) — — 465 (991)
Cash flow hedge (net of tax expense of $375) — — — — 1,076 — — — 1,076
Dividends on common stock ($0.60 per share) — — — (49,161) — — — — (49,161)
Investment of noncontrolling interest — — — — — — — (3,121) (3,121)
Exercise of stock options 24 — 602 — — — — — 602
Issuance of restricted stock, net of forfeitures 403 — — — — — — — —
Stock-based compensation — — 24,396 — — — — — 24,396
Foreign currency translation adjustment — — — — (5,616) — — (1,065) (6,681)
Cash flow hedge (net of tax benefit of $239) — — — — (549) — — — (549)
Dividends on common stock ($0.84 per share) — — — (66,005) — — — — (66,005)
Investment of noncontrolling interest — — — — — — — 2,500 2,500
Distributions to noncontrolling interests — — — — — — — (294) (294)
Sale of minority ownership of joint venture — — (556) — — — — 1,573 1,017
See accompanying notes to consolidated financial statements
F-7
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
Consolidated Statements of Cash Flows
Years Ended December 31,
Cash flows from operating activities:
Loss on disposal of fixed assets 11 526 561
Impairment of lease right-of-use asset and fixed assets — 1,432 36,895
Accrued interest on note receivable – related party (16) (23) (31)
Change in valuation of contingent liability (5,807) 11,862 (8,917)
Gain on sale of trademark — (8,000) —
Other operating activities (2,716) — —
Recovery of receivables, related to the Payless ShoeSource bankruptcy — (919) —
Changes, net of acquisitions, in:
Payment of contingent consideration (339) — —
Cash flows from investing activities:
Purchase/sale of a trademark (2,000) 8,000 —
Other investing activities (5,000) — —
Net cash provided by/(used in) investing activities 5,517 (3,212) (4,884)
Cash flows from financing activities:
Investment of noncontrolling interest 2,500 — 359
Acquisition of incremental ownership of joint ventures — (18,942) —
Distributions to noncontrolling interest earnings (294) (3,121) —
Sale of minority interest of a subsidiary 1,017 — —
Payment of contingent consideration (4,770) — —
Advances from factor — — 176,784
Repayments of advances from factor — — (176,784)
Effect of exchange rate changes on cash and cash equivalents (2,358) 37 1,515
Supplemental disclosures of cash flow information:
Cash paid during the year for:
Interest $ — $ — $ 354
See accompanying notes to consolidated financial statements.
F-8
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
All figures discussed in these notes to our consolidated financial statements are in thousands, except for per share amounts.
Note A – Nature of Operations
Steven Madden, Ltd. and its subsidiaries design, source, and market fashion-forward branded and private label footwear, accessories and apparel for women, men, and children. We distribute our products in the wholesale channel through department stores, mass merchants, off-price retailers, shoe chains, online retailers, national chains, specialty retailers, independent stores, and clubs throughout the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Europe, and other international markets through our joint ventures in Israel, South Africa, China, Taiwan, Malaysia, and the Middle East along with special distribution arrangements in certain European countries, North Africa, South and Central America, Australia, and various countries in Asia. In addition, our products are distributed through our direct-to-consumer channel within the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Europe, and our joint ventures in Israel, South Africa, China, Taiwan, and the Middle East.
Our product lines include a broad range of contemporary styles designed to establish or capitalize on market trends, complemented by core product offerings. We have established a reputation for design creativity and our ability to offer quality, trend-right products at accessible price points, delivered in an efficient manner and time frame. As of December 31, 2022, the Company operated 232 brick-and-mortar stores and six e-commerce sites.
Note B – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies
Principles of Consolidation:
The consolidated financial statements include the accounts of Steven Madden, Ltd. and its wholly-owned subsidiaries., the accounts of BA Brand Holdings LLC, a joint venture in the United States in which the Company is the majority interest holder, SM Dolce Limited, a joint venture in Taiwan in which the Company is the majority interest holder, SM Distribution Israel L.P., a joint venture in which the Company is the majority interest holder, Steve Madden South Africa Proprietary Limited, a joint venture in which the Company is the majority interest holder, AG SM Holdings Limited, a joint venture in the Middle East in which the Company is the majority interest holder and SM Distribution China Co., Ltd., a joint venture in which the Company is the majority interest holder, are included in the consolidated financial statements with the other members' interests reflected in “Net income attributable to noncontrolling interest” in the Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss) and “Noncontrolling interest” in the Consolidated Balance Sheets. All intercompany balances and transactions have been eliminated.
Use of Estimates:
The preparation of financial statements in conformity with accounting principles generally accepted in the United States of America (“GAAP”), which requires management to make estimates and assumptions that affect the reported amounts of assets and liabilities and disclosure of contingent assets and liabilities at the date of the financial statements and the reported amounts of revenue and expenses during the reporting period. Actual results could differ from those estimates.
Significant areas involving management estimates include variable consideration included in revenue, allowances for bad debts, inventory valuation, valuation of goodwill and intangible assets and impairment of long-lived assets related to retail stores. The Company estimates variable consideration for future customer chargebacks and markdown allowances, discounts, returns and other miscellaneous compliance-related deductions that relate to current-period sales. The Company evaluates anticipated chargebacks by reviewing several performance indicators of its major customers. These performance indicators, which include retailers’ inventory levels, sell-through rates and gross margin levels, are analyzed by management to estimate the amount of the anticipated customer allowances.
Cash and Cash Equivalents:
Cash and cash equivalents consist of cash balances and highly liquid investments with a maturity of three months or less at the date of purchase.
Short-Term Investments:
Short-term investments consist of certificates of deposit with original maturities less than or equal to one year as of the balance sheet date.
F-9
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
Inventories:
Inventories consist of finished goods on hand and in transit and are stated at the lower of cost (first-in, first-out method) or net realizable value.
Property and Equipment, Net:
Property and equipment are stated at cost less accumulated depreciation and amortization and any impairment. Depreciation is computed utilizing the straight-line method based on estimated useful lives ranging from three to 27.5 years. Leasehold improvements are amortized utilizing the straight-line method over the shorter of their estimated useful lives or the remaining lease term. Impairment losses are recognized in income/(loss) from operations for property and equipment and other long-lived assets when indicators of impairment are present and the undiscounted cash flows estimated to be generated by those assets are not sufficient to recover the assets' carrying amount. Impairment losses are measured by comparing the fair value of the assets to their carrying amount. See Note F – Property and Equipment for further information.
Goodwill and Intangible Assets:
The Company's goodwill and indefinite-lived intangible assets are not amortized; rather they are tested for impairment on an annual basis at the beginning of the third quarter, or more often if events or circumstances change that could cause these assets to become impaired.
In accordance with applicable accounting guidance, indefinite-lived intangible assets and goodwill may be assessed for impairment by performing a qualitative assessment that evaluates relevant events or circumstances in order to determine whether it is more likely than not that the fair value of an intangible asset or reporting unit is less than its carrying amount. The factors that are considered include, but are not limited to, historical financial performance, expected future performance, macroeconomic and industry conditions and legal and regulatory environments. If it is more likely than not that the fair value of the intangible asset or reporting unit is less than its carrying amount, a quantitative impairment test is performed. The quantitative impairment test identifies the existence of potential impairment by comparing the fair value of the intangible asset or reporting unit to its carrying amount, and if the fair value of the intangible asset or reporting unit is less than its carrying amount, an impairment is recognized equal to the amount by which the carrying value of the intangible asset or reporting unit exceeds its fair value, not to exceed the carrying amount. See Note G – Goodwill and Intangible Assets for further information.
The Company amortizes its intangible assets with finite useful lives over their estimated useful lives and reviews these assets for impairment when there are indicators of impairment are present. The Company is currently amortizing its acquired intangible assets with finite useful lives over periods typically from 10 to 20 years using the straight-line method.
Comprehensive Loss:
Comprehensive loss is the total of net earnings and all other non-owner changes in equity. Comprehensive loss for the Company includes net income/(loss), foreign currency translation adjustments and unrealized loss/gains on cash flow hedging. The accumulated balances for each component of other comprehensive loss attributable to the Company were as follows:
Years Ended December 31,
Amounts reclassified from accumulated other comprehensive loss to operating income/(loss) in the Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss) during 2022, 2021 and 2020 were a loss of $676, $961 and $89, respectively.
Advertising Costs:
Advertising costs are expensed as incurred, including digital and print advertisements. For the years ended December 31, 2022, 2021 and 2020, advertising expenses included in operating expenses amounted to approximately $85,921, $65,080, and $33,068, respectively.
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STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
Revenue Recognition:
The Company recognizes revenue when performance obligations identified under the terms of contracts with its customers are satisfied, which generally occurs upon the transfer of control in accordance with the contractual terms and conditions of the sale. Most of the Company’s revenue is recognized at a point in time when product is shipped to the customer. Revenue is measured as the amount of consideration the Company expects to receive in exchange for transferring goods, which includes estimates for variable consideration. Variable consideration mainly includes markdown allowances, co-op advertising programs and product returns. The revenue recognition for the Company's segments is described below (see Note S – Operating Segment Information for disaggregated revenue amounts by segment).
Wholesale Sales Segments. The Company generates revenue through the design, sourcing and sale of branded footwear, accessories and apparel to both domestic and international customers who, in turn, sell the products to the end consumer. The Company recognizes revenue when performance obligations identified under the terms of contracts with its customers are satisfied, which occurs upon the transfer of control of the merchandise in accordance with the contractual terms and conditions of the sale. The Company also generates revenue through the design, sourcing and sale of private label footwear and accessories to both domestic and international customers who brand the products and sell them to the consumer.
Direct-to-Consumer Segment. The Company owns and operates 232 brick-and-mortar stores throughout the United States, Canada, Mexico, Israel, Middle East, South Africa, and China, and six e-commerce sites. The Company generates revenue through the sale of branded footwear, apparel and accessories directly to the consumer. The Company's revenue associated with brick-and-mortar store sales is recognized at the time of the point of sale when the customer takes control of the goods and payment is received. The Company's e-commerce business recognizes sales upon receipt of goods by the customer.
First Cost Segment. The Company earns commissions for serving as a buying agent for footwear products under private labels and certain owned brands for select national chains, and value-priced retailers. As a buying agent, the Company utilizes its expertise and relationships with shoe manufacturers to facilitate the production of private label shoes to customer specifications. The Company’s commission revenue also includes fees charged for its design and product development services provided to certain suppliers. The Company satisfies its performance obligation to its customers by performing the services required in the buying agency agreements and thereby earns its commission fee at the point in time when the customer’s freight forwarder takes control of the goods.
Licensing Segment. The Company licenses various owned trademarks under licensing agreements for use in connection with the manufacture, marketing and sale of select apparel, accessory, and home categories, as well as various other non-core products. The license agreements require the licensee to pay the Company a royalty and, in substantially all of the agreements, an advertising fee, both of which are based on the higher of a minimum or actual net revenues percentage as defined in the various agreements. For license agreements where the sales-based percentage fee exceeds the contractual minimum fee, the Company recognizes revenues as the licensed products are sold as reported to the Company by its licensees. In substantially all of the Company’s license agreements, the minimum guaranteed royalty is earned and received on a quarterly basis. For license agreements where the sales-based percentage fee does not exceed the contractual minimum fee, the Company recognizes the contractual minimum fee as revenue ratably over the contractual period.
Variable Consideration
The Company supports retailers’ initiatives to maximize the sales of the Company’s products on the retail floor by providing markdown allowances and participating in various other marketing initiatives by subsidizing certain co-op advertising programs of such retailers. Such expenses are reflected in the consolidated financial statements as deductions to arrive at net revenues.
Markdown Allowances. The Company provides markdown allowances to its retailer customers, which are recorded as a reduction of revenue in the period in which the branded footwear and accessories revenues are recognized. The Company estimates its markdown allowances by reviewing several performance indicators, including retailers' inventory levels, sell-through rates and gross margin levels.
Co-op Advertising Programs. Under co-op advertising programs, the Company agrees to reimburse the retailer for a portion of the costs incurred by the retailer to advertise and promote some of the Company's products. The Company estimates the costs of co-op advertising programs based on the terms of the agreements with its retailer customers.
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STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
Rights of Return. The Company’s Direct-to-Consumer segment accepts returns within 30 days from the date of sale, or 30 days from the date of delivery for online orders, for unworn merchandise that the Company is able to re-sell through the channel. The Company does not accept returns as a normal business practice from its branded and private label wholesale customers except for its Blondo, Dolce Vita and BB Dakota product lines. The Company estimates such returns based on historical experience and current market conditions, which have historically not been material. In addition, the Company's wholesale business may, from time to time, accept returns for damaged products from its wholesale customers on which the Company’s costs are normally charged back to the responsible third-party factory.
Taxes Collected from Customers:
The Company accounts for certain taxes collected from its customers in accordance with the accounting guidance that permits companies to adopt a policy of presenting taxes in the income statement on either a gross basis (included in revenues and costs) or a net basis (excluded from revenues). Taxes within the scope of this accounting guidance would include taxes that are imposed on a revenue transaction between a seller and a customer, such as sales taxes, use taxes, value-added taxes and some types of excise taxes. The Company accounts for sales taxes and other related taxes on a net basis, excluding such taxes from revenue.
Cost of Sales:
All costs incurred to bring finished products to the Company’s distribution center or to the customers’ freight forwarder and, in the Direct-to-Consumer segment, the costs to bring products to the Company’s stores (exclusive of depreciation and amortization) are included in Cost of sales on the Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss). These include the cost of finished products, purchase commissions, letter of credit fees, brokerage fees, sample expenses, custom duties, inbound freight, royalty payments on licensed products, labels and product packaging. All warehouse and distribution costs related to the Wholesale segments and freight to customers, if any, are included in the operating expenses line item of the Company’s Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss). The Company’s gross margins may not be comparable to those of other companies in the industry because they may include warehouse and distribution costs, as well as other costs excluded from cost of sales by the Company, as a component of cost of sales, while other companies report those costs on the same basis as the Company.
Warehouse and Shipping Costs:
The Company includes all warehouse and shipping costs for the Wholesale segments in operating expenses in the Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss). For the years ended December 31, 2022, 2021, and 2020, the total warehouse and shipping costs (except costs incurred to ship from warehouse to retail stores) included in operating expenses were $111,326, $86,367 and $58,621, respectively. Since the Company's standard terms of sales are “FOB Steve Madden warehouse,” the Company's wholesale customers absorb most shipping costs. Shipping costs to wholesale customers incurred by the Company are not considered significant and are included in the operating expenses line item in the Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss).
Employee Benefit Plan:
The Company maintains a tax-qualified 401(k) plan, which is available to each of the Company's eligible employees who elect to participate after meeting certain length-of-service requirements. The Company made discretionary matching contributions of 50% of employees' contributions up to a maximum of 6% of employees' compensation, which vest to the employees over a period of time. Total matching contributions to the plan for 2022, 2021, and 2020 were approximately $2,125, $1,989 and $1,809, respectively.
Derivative Instruments:
The Company uses derivative instruments to manage its exposure to cash-flow variability from foreign currency risk. Derivatives are carried on the balance sheet at fair value and included in prepaid expenses and other current assets or accrued expenses. The Company applies cash flow hedge accounting for its derivative instruments. Net derivative gains and losses attributable to derivatives subject to cash flow hedge accounting reside in accumulated other comprehensive loss and will be reclassified to earnings in future periods as the economic transactions to which the derivatives relate affect earnings. See Note L – Derivative Instruments for additional details.
F-12
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
Income Taxes:
The provision for income taxes is computed using the asset and liability method, under which deferred tax assets and liabilities are recognized for the expected future tax consequences of temporary differences between the financial reporting and tax bases of assets and liabilities, and for operating losses and tax credit carryforwards. Deferred tax assets and liabilities are measured using the currently enacted tax rates that apply to taxable income in effect for the years in which those tax assets are expected to be realized or settled. The Company records a valuation allowance to reduce deferred tax assets to the amount that is believed more likely than not to be realized.
The Company recognizes the tax benefit from an uncertain tax position only if it is more likely than not the tax position will be sustained on examination by the taxing authorities, based on the technical merits of the position. The tax benefits recognized in the financial statements from such positions are then measured based on the largest benefit that has a greater than 50% likelihood of being realized upon settlement. See Note N – Income Taxes for additional details.
Equity-based Compensation:
The Company recognizes expense related to equity-based payment transactions in which it receives employee services in exchange for equity instruments of the Company. Equity-based compensation cost for restricted stock awards is measured based on the closing fair market value of the Company’s common stock on the date of grant. Equity-based compensation cost for stock options is measured at the grant date, based on the fair-value as calculated by the Black-Scholes-Merton (“BSM”) option-pricing model. The BSM option-pricing model incorporates various assumptions, including expected volatility, estimated expected life and interest rates. The Company grants performance-based share awards to certain individuals, the vesting of which is subject to the Company's or individual's achievement of certain performance goals. On a quarterly basis, the Company assesses actual performance versus the predetermined performance goals, and adjusts the equity-based compensation expense to reflect the relative performance achievement. Actual distributed shares are calculated upon conclusion of the service and performance periods. The Company recognizes share-based compensation net of estimated forfeitures. The Company estimates the forfeiture rate based on historical forfeitures. Equity-based compensation cost for performance based awards is measured based on the closing fair market value of the Company’s common stock on the date of grant. The Company recognizes equity-based compensation cost over the award’s requisite service period and is presented in operating expenses in the Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss). See Note H – Equity-Based Compensation for additional details.
Leases:
The Company leases office space, sample production space, warehouses, showrooms, storage units and retail stores under operating leases. The Company’s portfolio of leases is primarily related to real estate. Since most of its leases do not provide a readily determinable implicit rate, the Company estimates its incremental borrowing rate to discount the lease payments based on information available at lease commencement.
Some of the Company’s retail store leases provide for variable lease payments based on sales volumes at the leased location, which are not measurable at the inception of the lease and are therefore not included in the measurement of the right-of-use assets and lease liabilities. Under Topic 842, these variable lease costs are expensed as incurred.
Lease right-of-use assets, along with other long-lived assets, are evaluated for impairment whenever events or changes in circumstances indicate that the carrying amount of an asset or asset group may not be recoverable. For stores with an indicator of impairment, the Company performs a recoverability test, comparing estimated undiscounted cash flows to the carrying value of the related long-lived assets. When the carrying value is more than the estimated undiscounted cash flows, the Company writes the assets down to their fair value. Fair values of the long-lived assets are estimated using an income approach based on management’s forecast of future cash flows derived from continued retail operations and the fair values of individual operating lease assets were determined using estimated market rental rates. Significant estimates are used in determining future cash flows of each store over its remaining lease term, including the Company's expectations of future projected cash flows. An impairment loss is recorded if the carrying amount of the long-lived asset group exceeds its fair value.
A majority of the retail store leases provide for contingent rental payments if gross sales exceed certain targets. In addition, many of the leases contain rent escalation clauses to compensate for increases in operating costs and real estate taxes. Rent expense is calculated by amortizing total base rental payments (net of any rental abatements, construction allowances and other rental concessions), on a straight-line basis, over the lease term.
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STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
Note C – Recent Accounting Pronouncements
Recently Adopted
In March 2020, the FASB issued ASU 2020-04 “Reference Rate Reform (Topic 848): Facilitation of the Effects of Reference Rate Reform on Financial Reporting,” (“ASU No. 2020-04”), which provides practical expedients for contract modifications and certain hedging relationships associated with the transition from reference rates that are expected to be discontinued. Further, in December 2022, the FASB issued ASU 2022-06 “Reference Rate Reform (Topic 848): Deferral of the Sunset Date of Topic 848,” (“ASU No. 2022-06”). ASU No. 2020-04 and ASU No. 2022-26 are applicable to the Company's borrowing instruments that use LIBOR as a reference rate, with the objective of providing temporary relief during the transition period. ASU 2020-04 was effective upon issuance and can be applied to contract modifications retrospectively or prospectively through December 31, 2022. ASU No. 2022-06 deferred this effective date to December 31, 2024. The adoption of ASU No. 2020-04 and ASU No. 2022-06 did not have a material impact on the Company's consolidated financial statements.
Note D – Acquisitions & Sale of Minority Noncontrolling Interest
Acquisitions
On December 23, 2022, the Company formed a joint venture ("AG SM Holdings Ltd.") with Apparel FZCO, through its subsidiary, Madden Asia Holding Limited. The Company owns 50.1% interest in AG SM Holdings Ltd. and paid a contribution of $7,014. AG SM Holdings Ltd. is the exclusive distributor of the Company's products in the Middle East. As the Company has a controlling financial interest in the joint venture in AG SM Holdings Ltd., the assets, liabilities and results of operations of AG SM Holdings Ltd. are consolidated and included in the Company’s consolidated financial statements. The other member's interest is reflected in “Net income attributable to noncontrolling interests” in the Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss) and “Noncontrolling interests” in the Consolidated Balance Sheets.
On December 27, 2021, the Company acquired the rights for Dolce Vita Handbags for the total purchase price of $2,000, which include trademarks and all internet domain name registrations.
On June 28, 2021, the Company completed the acquisition of the remaining 49.9% non-controlling interest in its South African joint venture in the amount of $2,260. The South African joint venture was formed in 2014 and distributes Steve Madden-branded footwear and accessories/apparel throughout South Africa.
On April 14, 2021, the Company completed the acquisition of the remaining 49.9% non-controlling interest in its European joint venture in the amount of $16,682. The European joint venture was formed in 2016 and distributes Steve Madden-branded footwear and accessories/apparel to most countries throughout Europe.
Sale of Minority Noncontrolling Interest
As of April 1, 2022, the Company sold a 49.9% minority non-controlling interest in Steve Madden South Africa Proprietary Limited for $1,017 to a third party to form a joint venture.
Note E – Fair Value Measurement
The accounting guidance under Accounting Standards Codification 820-10, “Fair Value Measurements and Disclosures” (“ASC 820-10”), requires the Company to make disclosures about the fair value of certain of its assets and liabilities. ASC 820-10 clarifies the principle that fair value should be based on the assumptions market participants would use when pricing an asset or liability and establishes a fair value hierarchy that prioritizes the information used to develop those assumptions. ASC 820-10 utilizes a fair value hierarchy that prioritizes the inputs to valuation techniques used to measure fair value into three broad levels. A brief description of those three levels is as follows:
•Level 1: Observable inputs such as quoted prices in active markets for identical assets or liabilities.
•Level 2: Inputs other than quoted prices that are observable for the asset or liability, either directly or indirectly.
•Level 3: Significant unobservable inputs.
F-14
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
The Company’s financial assets and liabilities subject to fair value measurements, as of December 31, 2022 and 2021 were as follows:
Assets:
Liabilities:
Contingent consideration $ — $ — $ — $ — $ 6,960 $ — $ — $ 6,960
Forward contracts are used to manage the risk associated with the volatility of future cash flows (see Note L – Derivative Instruments ). Fair value of these instruments is based on observable market transactions of spot and forward rates.
The Company's Level 3 balance consists of contingent consideration related to acquisitions. The changes in the Company's Level 3 liabilities for the years ended December 31, 2022 and 2021 were as follows:
Liabilities:
Liabilities:
(1) In 2022, amount consists of an adjustment of $(5,807) that was included as a benefit in operating expenses, related to the change in valuation of the contingent consideration in connection with the acquisition of B.B. Dakota, Inc.
(2) In 2021, amount consists of adjustments of $11,869 and $(7) that were included as an expense in operating expenses, related to the change in valuation of the contingent consideration in connection with the acquisitions of B.B. Dakota, Inc. and GREATS Brand, Inc., respectively.
(3) On December 31, 2022, the transfer out of Level 3 amount of $1,153, which was recorded in the current portion of our contingent payment liabilities on the Consolidated Balance Sheets, represented the current portion of our contingent liabilities and was measured at the amount payable based upon actual EBITDA performance for the related performance period.On December 31, 2021, the transfer out of Level 3 amount of $5,109, which was recorded in the current portion of our contingent payment liabilities on the Consolidated Balance Sheets, represented the current portion of our contingent liabilities and was measured at the amount payable based upon actual EBITDA performance for the related performance period. As of December 31, 2022, $5,109 was paid, of which $339 was included as a payment from operating activities and $4,770 was included as a payment from financing activities on the Condensed Consolidated Statement of Cash Flows.
At December 31, 2022, the liability for contingent consideration was $1,153 in connection with the August 12, 2019 acquisition of B.B. Dakota, Inc. Pursuant to the terms of an earn-out provision contained in the equity purchase agreement between the Company and the sellers of B.B. Dakota, Inc., the earn-out payments are based on EBITDA performance for the related performance period.
At December 31, 2022, the liability for contingent consideration was $0 in connection with the August 9, 2019 acquisition of GREATS Brand, Inc. Pursuant to the terms of an earn-out provision contained in the equity purchase agreement between the Company and the sellers of GREATS Brand, Inc., earn-out payments are based on EBITA performance. The fair value of the contingent payments was estimated using a risk neutral simulation method to model the probability of different financial results of GREATS Brand, Inc. during the three year earn-out period. However, the EBITA performance is not expected to be met under any of the scenarios.
F-15
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
The fair value of trademarks is measured on a non-recurring basis and are determined using Level 3 inputs, including forecasted cash flows, discount rates and implied royalty rates (see Note G – Goodwill and Intangible Assets).
The fair values of lease right-of-use assets and fixed assets related to Company-owned retail stores are measured on a non-recurring basis and are determined using Level 3 inputs, including estimated discounted future cash flows associated with the assets using sales trends, market rents and market participant assumptions (see Note F – Property and Equipment and Note M – Leases).
The carrying value of certain financial instruments such as cash equivalents, certificates of deposit, accounts receivable, factor accounts receivable and accounts payable approximates their fair values due to the short-term nature of their underlying terms. Fair value of the notes receivable held by the Company approximates their carrying value based upon their imputed or actual interest rate, which approximates applicable current market interest rates. Some assets are not measured at fair value on an ongoing basis but are subject to fair value adjustments only in certain circumstances (non-recurring). These assets can include long-lived assets that have been reduced to fair value when impaired. Assets that are written down to fair value when impaired are not subsequently adjusted to fair value unless further impairment occurs.
Note F – Property and Equipment
The major classes of assets and total accumulated depreciation and amortization were as follows:
As of December 31,
(in thousands) Average Useful Life 2022 2021
Leasehold improvements Lesser of remaining lease or asset life 85,974 85,137
Less accumulated depreciation and amortization (135,720) (128,656)
(1) Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, impairments were recorded related to stores in 2021 (see below for further explanation). In 2021, impairments include disposals.
Depreciation and amortization expense related to property and equipment included in operating expenses amounted to approximately $11,576, $12,533, and $13,350 in 2022, 2021 and 2020, respectively, and includes computer software amortization expense for 2022, 2021, and 2020 of $3,505, $3,135, and $3,007, respectively.
Property and equipment, along with other long-lived assets, are evaluated for impairment whenever events or changes in circumstances indicate that the carrying amount of an asset or asset group may not be recoverable. In 2021, the Company identified indicators of impairment for long-lived assets at certain retail stores. For such stores, the Company performed a recoverability test, comparing estimated undiscounted cash flows to the carrying value of the related long-lived assets. When the carrying value was more than the estimated undiscounted cash flows, the Company determined that an impairment test was required. Fair values of the long-lived assets were estimated using an income approach based on management’s forecast of future cash flows derived from continued retail operations and the fair values of individual operating lease assets were determined using estimated market rental rates. Significant estimates are used in determining future cash flows of each store over its remaining lease term, including the Company's expectations of future projected cash flows that include revenues, operating expenses, and market conditions. An impairment loss is recorded if the carrying amount of the long-lived asset group exceeds its fair value. As a result, the Company recorded an impairment charge of $409 and $14,712 related to furniture fixtures and leasehold improvements for the years ended December 31, 2021 and 2020, respectively. These impairment charges were recorded in the Direct-to-Consumer segment. There were no impairment charges recorded for the year ended December 31, 2022.
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STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
Note G – Goodwill and Intangible Assets
The following is a summary of the carrying amount of goodwill by reporting unit as of December 31, 2022 and 2021:
Wholesale
The following table details identifiable intangible assets as of December 31, 2022 and 2021:
(1) During the year ended December 31, 2021, the Company purchased the trademark for Dolce Vita® Handbags for $2,000 and the cash consideration was paid in 2022.
(2) Includes the effect of foreign currency translation related primarily to the movements of the Canadian dollar and Mexican peso in relation to the U.S. dollar.
(1) During the year ended December 31, 2021, the Company purchased the trademark for Dolce Vita® Handbags for $2,000 and the cash consideration was paid in 2022.
(2) Impairment charges of $2,620 in 2021 were recorded related to the Company's BB Dakota® trademark.
(3) Includes the effect of foreign currency translation related primarily to the movements of the Canadian dollar and Mexican peso in relation to the U.S. dollar.
The Company evaluates its goodwill and indefinite-lived intangible assets for indicators of impairment at least annually in the third quarter of each year and whenever events or changes in circumstances indicate that their carrying amounts may not be recoverable. A qualitative assessment of goodwill and indefinite-lived intangible assets was performed as of July 1, 2022 and 2021. In conducting the qualitative impairment assessment for goodwill and indefinite-lived intangibles, the Company concluded that it is more likely than not that the fair values of its reporting units exceeded their carrying values and the fair values of its indefinite-lived intangibles exceeded their respective carrying values. Therefore, in 2022 and 2021, as a result of the annual test, no impairment charges were recorded for goodwill and intangibles.
During the fourth quarter of 2021, certain decisions were made by the Company that resulted in the change in useful life of the BB Dakota trademark from an indefinite to a finite life. As a result, the BB Dakota trademark was assessed for impairment. The estimated fair value of this trademark was determined using an excess earnings method, incorporating the use of projected financial information and a discount rate which are developed using market participant based assumptions. As a result of this assessment, the BB Dakota trademark was written down from the carrying value of $9,670 to its fair value of $7,050, resulting in a pre-tax non-cash impairment charge of $2,620. This charge was recorded in impairment of intangibles in
F-17
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
the Company’s Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss) and recognized in the Wholesale Accessories/Apparel segment. The fair value of $7,050 was amortized over its remaining useful life of one year, and was fully amortized in 2022.
As a result of the COVID-19 pandemic and decline in the macroeconomic environment, during the twelve months ended December 31, 2020, the Company’s Cejon, Report, GREATS and Jocelyn trademarks were written down from an aggregate carrying value of $57,198 to their fair values of $12,925, resulting in a pre-tax non-cash impairment charge of $44,273. These charges were recorded in impairment of intangibles in the Company’s Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss) and recognized in three segments: $27,472 related to Wholesale Accessories/Apparel, $16,345 related to Wholesale Footwear and $456 related to the Direct-to-Consumer segments, respectively. The estimated fair values of these trademarks were determined using an excess earnings method. This method utilizes the present value of the earnings attributable to the intangible asset after providing for the proportion of the earnings that attribute to returns for contributory assets.
During the year ended December 31, 2021 the Company sold one of its internally developed trademarks for a gain of $8,000, which was recorded in operating expenses in the Company's Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss).
The amortization of intangible assets amounted to $9,001, $2,675, and $4,010 for 2022, 2021, and 2020 and is included in operating expenses on the Company's Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss). The estimated future amortization expense for intangibles as of December 31, 2022 is as follows:
(in thousands)
Note H – Equity-Based Compensation
In February 2019, the Company's Board of Directors approved the Steven Madden, Ltd. 2019 Incentive Compensation Plan (the “2019 Plan”), under which non-qualified stock options, stock appreciation rights, performance shares, restricted stock, other stock-based awards and performance-based awards may be granted to employees, consultants and non-employee directors. The 2019 Plan is the successor to the Company's Amended and Restated 2006 Stock Incentive Plan, as amended (the "2006 Plan"), the term of which expired on April 6, 2019. The Company's stockholders approved the 2019 Plan at the Company's annual meeting of stockholders held on May 24, 2019.
The following table summarizes the number of shares of common stock authorized for issuance under the 2019 Plan, the number of stock-based awards granted (net of expired or cancelled awards) under the 2019 Plan and the number of shares of common stock available for the grant of stock-based awards under the 2019 Plan:
(in thousands)
Common stock authorized 11,000
In addition, vested and unvested options to purchase 1,719 shares of common stock and 1,170 shares of unvested restricted stock awarded under the 2006 Plan were outstanding as of December 31, 2022.
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STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
For the years ended December 31, 2022, 2021, and 2020, total equity-based compensation was as follows:
Years Ended December 31,
We calculate an estimated forfeiture rate annually based on historical forfeiture and expectations about future forfeitures. Equity-based compensation is included in operating expenses on the Company’s Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss).
Restricted Stock
The following table summarizes restricted stock activity during the year ended December 31, 2022 and 2021:
(in thousands) Number of Shares Weighted Average Fair Value at Grant Date
As of December 31, 2022, the Company had $43,266 of total unrecognized compensation cost related to restricted stock awards granted under the 2019 Plan and the 2006 Plan. This cost is expected to be recognized over a weighted average period of 3.0 years. The Company determines the fair value of its restricted stock awards based on the market price of its common stock on the date of grant.
The fair values of the restricted stock that vested during the years ended December 31, 2022, 2021, and 2020 were $24,300, $23,231, and $23,839, respectively.
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STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
Stock Options
Activity relating to stock options granted under the Company’s plans during the year ended December 31, 2022 was as follows:
At December 31, 2022, $1,825 of total unrecognized compensation cost related to non-vested stock option awards is expected to be recognized over a weighted-average period of 1.5 years.
Additional information pertaining to the Company's stock option plan was as follows:
Years Ended December 31,
Cash received from the exercise of stock options $ 602 $ 9,732 $ 1,609
Intrinsic value of stock options exercised $ 314 $ 8,622 $ 993
Tax benefits realized on exercise of stock options $ 41 $ 1,512 $ 234
The Company uses the Black-Scholes-Merton option-pricing model to estimate the fair value of options granted, which requires several assumptions. The expected term of the options represents the estimated period of time until exercise and is based on the historical experience of similar awards. Expected volatility is based on the historical volatility of the Company’s common stock. The risk-free interest rate is based on the U.S. Treasury yield curve in effect at the time of the grant. The dividend yield is based on the Company's annualized dividend per share amount divided by the Company's stock price. The following weighted average assumptions were used for stock options granted during 2022, 2021, and 2020:
Years Ended December 31,
Risk free interest rate 1.2% to 3.0% 0.1% to 1.0% 0.2% to 1.6%
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STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
Note I – Preferred Stock
The Company has authorized 5,000 shares of preferred stock. The Board of Directors has designated 60 shares of such preferred stock as Series A Junior Participating Preferred Stock (“Series A Preferred”). Holders of the shares of Series A Preferred are entitled to dividends equal to 1 times dividends declared or paid on the Company's common stock. Each share of Series A Preferred entitles the holder to 1 vote on all matters submitted to the holders of common stock. The Series A Preferred has a liquidation preference of $1 per share and is not redeemable by the Company. No shares of preferred stock have been issued.
Note J – Share Repurchase Program
The Company's Board of Directors authorized a share repurchase program (the “Share Repurchase Program”), effective as of January 1, 2004. The Share Repurchase Program does not have a fixed expiration or termination date and may be modified or terminated by the Board of Directors at any time. On several occasions the Board of Directors has increased the amount authorized for repurchase of the Company's common stock. On April 24, 2019, the Board of Directors approved the expansion of the Company's Share Repurchase Program for up to $200,000 in repurchases of the Company's common stock, which included the amount remaining under the prior authorization. On November 2, 2021, the Board of Directors approved an increase in the Company's share repurchase authorization of approximately $200,000, bringing the total authorization to $250,000, which included the amount remaining under the prior authorization. The Share Repurchase Program permits the Company to effect repurchases from time to time through a combination of open market repurchases, net settlements of employee stock awards or in privately negotiated transactions at such prices and times as are determined to be in the best interest of the Company. During the twelve months ended December 31, 2022, an aggregate of 3,604 shares of the Company's common stock, excluding net settlements of employee stock awards, were repurchased under the Share Repurchase Program, at a weighted average price per share of $35.84, for an aggregate purchase price of approximately $129,152. As of December 31, 2022, approximately $94,398 remained available for future repurchases under the Share Repurchase Program.
The Steven Madden, Ltd. Amended and Restated 2006 Stock Incentive Plan (as further amended, the "2006 Plan"), which expired on April 6, 2019, and the Steven Madden, Ltd. 2019 Incentive Compensation Plan (the "2019 Plan") both provide the Company with the right to deduct or withhold, or require employees to remit to the Company, an amount sufficient to satisfy any applicable tax withholding and/or option cost obligations applicable to stock-based compensation awards. To the extent permitted, employees may elect to satisfy all or part of such withholding obligations by tendering to the Company previously owned shares or by having the Company withhold shares having a fair market value equal to the employee's withholding tax obligation and/or option cost. During the twelve months ended December 31, 2022, an aggregate of 584 shares were withheld in connection with the settlement of vested restricted stock to satisfy tax-withholding requirements and option costs, at an average price per share of $33.75, for an aggregate purchase price of approximately $19,725.
Note K – Net Income/(Loss) Per Share of Common Stock
Basic net income/(loss) per share is based on the weighted average number of shares of common stock outstanding during the period, which does not include unvested restricted common stock subject to forfeiture of 2,109, 2,849 and 3,651 shares for the years ended December 31, 2022, 2021, and 2020, respectively. Diluted net income per share reflects: a) the potential dilution assuming shares of common stock were issued upon the exercise of outstanding in-the-money options and the assumed proceeds, which are deemed to be the proceeds from the exercise plus compensation cost not yet recognized attributable to future services using the treasury method, were used to purchase shares of the Company’s common stock at the average market price during the period, and b) the vesting of granted non-vested restricted stock awards for which the assumed proceeds upon vesting are deemed to be the amount of compensation cost not yet recognized attributable to future services using the treasury stock method, to the extent dilutive.
(in thousands) Years Ended December 31,
Weighted average common shares outstanding:
Effect of dilutive securities:
Stock awards and options to purchase shares of common stock 2,048 3,186 —
(1) The year ended December 31, 2020 resulted in a net loss; therefore, there was no difference in the weighted average number of common shares for basic and diluted loss per share as the effect of all potentially dilutive shares outstanding was anti-dilutive.
F-21
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
For the years ended December 31, 2022, 2021, and 2020, options to purchase approximately 2, 5, and 89 shares of common stock, respectively, have been excluded from the calculation of diluted net income/(loss) per share, as the result would have been anti-dilutive. For the year ended December 31, 2022, 2021, and 2020, 46, 7, and 2,524 restricted shares, respectively, were excluded from the calculation of diluted net income/(loss) per share, as the result would have been anti-dilutive. The Company had contingently issuable performance awards outstanding that did not meet the performance conditions as of year ended December 31, 2022 and 2021, and, therefore, were excluded from the calculation of diluted net income per common share for the year ended December 31, 2022, 2021, and 2020. The maximum number of potentially dilutive shares that could be issued upon vesting for these performance awards was approximately 66, 17, and 300 as of December 31, 2022, 2021, and 2020 respectively. These amounts were also excluded from the computation of weighted average potentially dilutive securities.
Note L – Derivative Instruments
The Company uses derivative instruments, specifically, forward foreign exchange contracts, to manage the risk associated with the volatility of future cash flows. The foreign exchange contracts are used to mitigate the impact of exchange rate fluctuations on certain forecasted purchases of inventory and are designated as cash flow hedging instruments. As of December 31, 2022, the Company's entire net forward contracts hedging portfolio consisted of a notional amount of $74,869, with the fair value included on the Consolidated Balance Sheets in other current assets of $916 and other current liabilities of $1,241. For the twelve months ended December 31, 2022 and 2021, the Company's hedging activities were considered effective, and, thus, no ineffectiveness from hedging activities was recognized in the Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss) during the year. These gains and losses recognized in Net income/(loss) are reported in Cost of sales (exclusive of depreciation and amortization) on the Consolidated Statements of Income/(Loss).
Note M – Leases
The following table presents the lease-related assets and liabilities recorded on the Consolidated Balance Sheets as of December 31, 2022 and 2021:
As of December 31,
(in thousands) Classification on the Balance Sheet 2022 2021
Assets
Noncurrent Operating lease right-of-use asset $ 90,264 $ 85,449
Liabilities
Current Operating leases - current portion $ 29,499 $ 30,759
Noncurrent Operating leases - long-term portion 79,128 80,072
Weighted-average remaining lease term 4.6 years 4.6 years
Weighted-average discount rate 4.4 % 4.3 %
The following table presents the composition of lease costs during the years ended December 31, 2022, 2021 and 2020:
Years Ended December 31,
Short-term lease cost — — 238
(1) For the year ended December 31, 2021 and 2020, the Company incurred expenses related to the COVID-19 lease amendments of $9,505 and $12,064, respectively, which were included in variable lease cost. There were no lease amendments for the year ended December 31, 2022.
F-22
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
The Company recorded impairment charges of $1,023 and $22,183 related to lease right-of-use assets for the year ended December 31, 2021 and 2020. For 2021, these impairment charges were recorded in the Direct-to-Consumer and Wholesale Accessories/Apparel segments. In 2020, the impairment charges were recorded in the Direct-to- Consumer segment. No such impairment charges were recorded in 2022.
The following presents supplemental cash and non-cash information related to the Company's Operating leases:
Years Ended December 31,
Cash paid for amounts included in the measurement of lease liabilities
Operating cash flows used for operating leases $ 39,136 $ 31,870
Noncash transactions:
Right-of-use asset amortization expense(1) $ 31,693 $ 32,371
(1) Included in "Leases and other liabilities" in the Consolidated Statement of Cash Flows.
Future Minimum Lease Payments
The table below displays future minimum lease payments for each of the first five years and the total for the remaining years:
(in thousands) As ofDecember 31, 2022
Total minimum lease payments 121,023
Total lease liabilities $ 108,627
Rent expense for the years ended December 31, 2022, 2021 and 2020 was approximately $49,321, $47,179 and $49,619, respectively.
F-23
STEVEN MADDEN, LTD. AND SUBSIDIARIES
NOTES TO THE CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
Note N – Income Taxes
The components of income/(loss) before income taxes were as follows:
Years Ended December 31,
The components of provision/(benefit) for income taxes were as follows: