Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations
The following discussion and analysis of our results of operations, cash flows, liquidity and capital resources compares Fiscal 2023 to Fiscal 2022 and should be read in conjunction with our consolidated financial statements contained in this report.
The results of operations, cash flows, liquidity and capital resources for Fiscal 2022 compared to Fiscal 2021 are not included in this report on Form 10-K. For a discussion of our results of operations, cash flows, liquidity and capital resources for Fiscal 2022 compared to Fiscal 2021 and certain other financial information related to Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021, refer to the “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” in Part II. Item 7 of our 2022 Annual Report on Form 10-K, filed with the SEC on March 28, 2023, which is available on the SEC’s website at www.sec.gov and under the Investor Relations section of our website at www.oxfordinc.com.
OVERVIEW
Business Overview
We are a leading branded apparel company that designs, sources, markets and distributes products bearing the trademarks of our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, Johnny Was, Southern Tide, TBBC, Duck Head and Jack Rogers lifestyle brands.
Our business strategy is to drive excellence across a portfolio of lifestyle brands that create sustained, profitable growth. We consider lifestyle brands to be those brands that have a clearly defined and targeted point of view inspired by an appealing lifestyle or attitude. Furthermore, we believe lifestyle brands that create an emotional connection can command greater loyalty and higher price points and create licensing opportunities. We believe the attraction of a lifestyle brand depends on creating compelling product, effectively communicating the respective lifestyle brand message and distributing products to consumers where and when they want them. We believe the principal competitive factors in the apparel industry are the reputation, value, and image of brand names; design of differentiated, innovative or otherwise compelling product; consumer preference; price; quality; marketing (including through rapidly shifting digital and social media vehicles); product fulfillment capabilities; and customer service. Our ability to compete successfully in the apparel industry is dependent on our proficiency in foreseeing changes and trends in fashion and consumer preference and presenting appealing products for consumers. Our design-led, commercially informed lifestyle brand operations strive to provide exciting, differentiated fashion products each season as well as certain core products that consumers expect from us.
On September 19, 2022, we acquired Johnny Was. Johnny Was products are sold through the Johnny Was website and full-price retail stores and outlets as well as select department stores and specialty stores. We continue to execute acquisition and integration activities in connection with the Johnny Was acquisition, such as investing in distribution and technology infrastructure. The financial information included in the results of operations discussion below for Fiscal 2022, includes only the nineteen weeks from the September 19, 2022 acquisition through January 28, 2023. Therefore, the amounts included in the results of operations below for Fiscal 2022 are not indicative of results for a full year. Refer to Note 4 and Note 2 of our consolidated financial statements included in this report for additional information about the Johnny Was acquisition.
During Fiscal 2023, 80% of our consolidated net sales were through our direct to consumer channels of distribution, which consist of our brand specific full-price retail stores, e-commerce websites and outlets, as well as our Tommy Bahama food and beverage operations. The remaining 20% of our net sales was generated through our wholesale distribution channels, which complement our direct to consumer operations and provide access to a larger base of consumers. Our wholesale operations consist of sales of products bearing the trademarks of our lifestyle brands to various specialty stores, better department stores, Signature Stores, multi-branded e-commerce retailers and other retailers.
For additional information about our business and each of our operating groups, see Part I, Item 1. Business included in this report. Important factors relating to certain risks which could impact our business are described in Part I, Item 1A. Risk Factors of this report.
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Industry Overview
We operate in a highly competitive apparel market that continues to evolve rapidly with the expanding application of technology to fashion retail. No single apparel firm or small group of apparel firms dominates the apparel industry, and our competitors vary by operating group and distribution channel. The apparel industry is cyclical and very dependent on the overall level and focus of discretionary consumer spending, which changes as consumer preferences and regional, domestic and international economic conditions change. Also, in recent years consumers have chosen to spend less of their discretionary spending on certain product categories, including apparel, while spending more on services and other product categories. Further, negative economic conditions often have a longer and more severe impact on the apparel industry than on other industries due, in part, to apparel purchases often being more of a discretionary purchase.
This competitive and evolving environment requires that brands and retailers approach their operations, including marketing and advertising, very differently than they have historically and may result in increased operating costs and investments to generate growth or even maintain existing sales levels. While the competition and evolution present significant risks, especially for traditional retailers who fail or are unable to adapt, we believe it also presents a tremendous opportunity for brands and retailers to capitalize on the changing consumer environment.
The current macroenvironment, with heightened concerns about continuing inflationary trends, a global economic recession, geopolitical issues, the availability and cost of credit and elevated interest rates for prolonged periods, combined with heightened promotional activity in our industry, is creating a complex and challenging retail environment, which has impacted our businesses and financial results during Fiscal 2023 and exacerbated some of the inherent challenges to our operations and may continue to do so in the future. There remains significant uncertainty in the macroeconomic environment, and the impact of these and other factors could have a major effect on our businesses.
However, we believe our lifestyle brands have true competitive advantages, and we continue to invest in our brands’ direct to consumer initiatives and distribution capabilities while further leveraging technology to serve our consumers when and where they want to be served. We continue to believe that our lifestyle brands, with their strong emotional connections with consumers, are well suited to succeed and thrive in the long term while managing the various challenges facing our industry in the current environment.
Key Operating Results
The following table sets forth our consolidated operating results (in thousands, except per share amounts) for Fiscal 2023 and Fiscal 2022:
Fiscal
Net earnings per diluted share $ 3.82 $ 10.19
Weighted average shares outstanding - diluted 15,906 16,259
Net earnings per diluted share were $3.82 in Fiscal 2023 compared to $10.19 in Fiscal 2022. The 63% decrease in net earnings per diluted share was primarily due to a 63% decrease in net earnings partially offset by a 2% reduction in weighted average shares outstanding due to open market share repurchases in Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2023. The decreased net earnings was primarily due to (1) lower operating income at Johnny Was primarily resulting from the noncash $111 million impairment charge recognized in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2023, (2) lower operating income at Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Emerging Brands, (3) increased interest expense, (4) a higher operating loss at Corporate and Other and (5) lower royalty income. These decreases were offset by a lower effective tax rate.
During Fiscal 2023 we generated $244 million of cash flows from operations, which exceeded our cash used for capital expenditures, dividends and share repurchases. With our long history of strong positive cash flows from operations
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exceeding cash requirements for capital expenditures and dividends and our strong balance sheet, we believe our anticipated future cash flows from operations will provide sufficient cash to satisfy our ongoing operating cash requirements, ample funds to continue to invest in our lifestyle brands, the project to build a new distribution center in the Southeastern United States, direct to consumer initiatives and information technology projects, additional cash flow to repay outstanding debt and sufficient cash for other strategic initiatives.
OPERATING GROUPS
We identify our operating groups based on the way our management organizes the components of our business for purposes of allocating resources and assessing performance. Our operating group structure reflects a brand-focused management approach, emphasizing operational coordination and resource allocation across each brand’s direct to consumer, wholesale and licensing operations, as applicable. Subsequent to our acquisition of Johnny Was in September 2022, our business is organized as our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, Johnny Was and Emerging Brands operating groups. Operating results for periods prior to Fiscal 2022 also include the Lanier Apparel operating group, which we exited in Fiscal 2021. For a more extensive description of our reportable operating groups and Corporate and Other, see Part I, Item 1. Business and Note 2 of our consolidated financial statements, both included in this report.
COMPARABLE SALES
We often disclose comparable sales in order to provide additional information regarding changes in our results of operations between periods. Our disclosures of comparable sales include net sales from our full-price retail stores and e-commerce sites, excluding sales associated with e-commerce flash clearance sales. We believe that the inclusion of both full-price retail stores and e-commerce sites in the comparable sales disclosures is a more meaningful way of reporting our comparable sales results, given similar inventory planning, allocation and return policies, as well as our cross-channel marketing and other initiatives for the direct to consumer channels. For our comparable sales disclosures, we exclude (1) outlet store sales and e-commerce flash clearance sales, as those clearance sales are used primarily to liquidate end of season inventory, which may vary significantly depending on the level of end of season inventory on hand and generally occur at lower gross margins than our non-clearance direct to consumer sales, and (2) food and beverage sales, as we do not currently believe that the inclusion of food and beverage sales in our comparable sales disclosures is meaningful in assessing our total company operations. Comparable sales information reflects net sales, including shipping and handling revenues, if any, associated with product sales.
For purposes of our disclosures, comparable sales consists of sales through e-commerce sites and any physical full-price retail store that was owned and open as of the beginning of the prior fiscal year and which did not have during the relevant periods, and is not within the current fiscal year scheduled to have, (1) a remodel or other event which would result in a closure for an extended period of time (which we define as a period of two weeks or longer), (2) a greater than 15% change in the size of the retail space due to expansion, reduction or relocation to a new retail space or (3) a relocation to a new space that is significantly different from the prior retail space. For those stores which are excluded based on the preceding sentence, the stores continue to be excluded from comparable sales until the criteria for a new store is met subsequent to the remodel, relocation, or other event. A full-price retail store that is remodeled will generally continue to be included in our comparable sales metrics as a store is not typically closed for longer than a two-week period during a remodel; however, a full-price retail store that is relocated generally will not be included in our comparable sales metrics until that store has been open in the relocated space for the entirety of the prior fiscal year because the size or other characteristics of the store typically change significantly from the prior location. Any stores that were closed during the prior fiscal year or current fiscal year, or which we expect to close or vacate in the current fiscal year, as well as any pop-up or temporary store locations, are excluded from our comparable sales metrics.
Definitions and calculations of comparable sales differ among retail companies, and therefore comparable sales metrics disclosed by us may not be comparable to the metrics disclosed by other companies.
DIRECT TO CONSUMER LOCATIONS
The table below provides information about the number of direct to consumer locations for our brands as of the dates specified. For acquired businesses, locations are only included subsequent to the date of acquisition. The amounts
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below include our permanent locations and exclude any pop-up or temporary store locations which have an initial lease term of 12 months or less.
February 3, January 28, January 29, January 30,
Tommy Bahama retail-food & beverage locations 22 21 21 20
Lilly Pulitzer full-price retail stores 60 59 58 59
Johnny Was full-price retail stores 72 65 — —
Johnny Was outlets 3 2 — —
Total Johnny Was locations 75 67 — —
Southern Tide full-price retail stores 19 6 4 3
TBBC full-price retail stores 3 3 1 —
RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
The following table sets forth the specified line items in our consolidated statements of operations both in dollars (in thousands) and as a percentage of net sales. We have calculated all percentages based on actual data, but percentage columns may not add due to rounding.
Net earnings per share $ 3.82 $ 10.19 $ 7.78
Weighted average shares outstanding - diluted 15,906 16,259 16,869
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The following table presents the proportion of our consolidated net sales, including any net sales of Johnny Was and Lanier Apparel, by distribution channel for each period presented. We have calculated all percentages below on actual data, and percentages may not add to 100 due to rounding.
Food & beverage 7 % 8 % 8 %
FISCAL 2023 COMPARED TO FISCAL 2022
The discussion and tables below compare certain line items included in our consolidated statements of operations for Fiscal 2023, which includes 53 weeks, to Fiscal 2022, which includes 52 weeks, except where indicated otherwise. Each dollar and share amount included in the tables is in thousands except for per share amounts. We have calculated all percentages based on actual data, and percentage columns in tables may not add due to rounding. Individual line items of our consolidated statements of operations, including gross profit, may not be directly comparable to those of our competitors, as classification of certain expenses may vary by company.
Net Sales
Fiscal
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
Consolidated net sales were $1.6 billion in the 53 week Fiscal 2023 compared to net sales of $1.4 billion in the 52 week Fiscal 2022. The 11% increase in net sales included (1) a $130 million increase in sales for Johnny Was, which we owned for 19 out of the 52 weeks of Fiscal 2022 and (2) single-digit percentage increases in each of our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, and Emerging Brands operating groups. We estimate that the 53rd week in Fiscal 2023 provided an approximate $16 million benefit to our consolidated net sales.
The increase in net sales by distribution channel consisted of the following:
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● an increase in e-commerce flash clearance sales of $7 million, or 13%;
● an increase in food and beverage sales of $7 million, or 6%; and
Tommy Bahama:
Tommy Bahama net sales increased $19 million, or 2%, in Fiscal 2023, with an increase in (1) e-commerce sales of $10 million, or 5%, (2) wholesale sales of $8 million, or 5%, (3) food and beverage sales of $7 million, or 6%, and (4) outlet sales of $3 million, or 5%. These increases were partially offset by a decrease in full-price retail sales of $9 million, or 3%. The following table presents the proportion of net sales by distribution channel for Tommy Bahama for each period presented:
Food & beverage 13 % 13 %
Lilly Pulitzer:
Lilly Pulitzer net sales increased $4 million, or 1%, in Fiscal 2023, with an increase in e-commerce flash clearance sales of $7 million, or 13%. This increase was partially offset by a decrease in full-price e-commerce sales of $3 million, or 3%. Wholesale sales and full-price retail sales were comparable in Fiscal 2023 to Fiscal 2022. The following table presents the proportion of net sales by distribution channel for Lilly Pulitzer for each period presented:
Johnny Was:
Johnny Was net sales were $203 million in Fiscal 2023. We owned Johnny Was for 19 out of the 52 weeks of Fiscal 2022. The following table presents the proportion of net sales by distribution channel for Johnny Was for each period presented:
Emerging Brands:
Emerging Brands net sales increased $10 million, or 9%, in Fiscal 2023, including $2 million of sales in Jack Rogers that was acquired during the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2023. Sales increases in Southern Tide and Duck Head were
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partially offset by a slight sales decrease in TBBC. By distribution channel, the $10 million increase included increases of (1) $7 million, or 126%, in retail sales as we opened new retail locations and (2) $6 million, or 12%, in e-commerce. These increases were partially offset by a $3 million, or 5%, decrease in wholesale sales that includes the impact of the acquisition and conversion of six former Southern Tide Signature Store operations to company owned retail stores. The following table presents the proportion of net sales by distribution channel for Emerging Brands for each period presented:
Retail 11 % 6 %
Corporate and Other:
Corporate and Other net sales primarily consist of net sales to third parties for our Lyons, Georgia distribution center operations as well as net sales of our Oxford America business, which we exited in Fiscal 2022. The decrease in net sales was primarily due to the exit of Oxford America.
Gross Profit
The tables below present gross profit by operating group and in total for Fiscal 2023 and Fiscal 2022, as well as the change between those two periods and gross margin by operating group and in total. Our gross profit and gross margin, which is calculated as gross profit divided by net sales, may not be directly comparable to those of our competitors, as the statement of operations classification of certain expenses may vary by company.
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
Notable items included in amounts above:
LIFO adjustments in Corporate and Other $ 9,605 $ 2,667
Inventory step-up charge included in Johnny Was $ — $ 4,230
Corporate and Other NM % NM %
Consolidated gross margin 63.4 % 63.0 %
The increased gross profit of 12% was primarily due to the 11% increase in net sales as well as increased consolidated gross margin. The higher gross margin included (1) the higher gross margin of Johnny Was for a full Fiscal 2023 relative to only 19 weeks in Fiscal 2022, with Fiscal 2022 gross margin for Johnny Was impacted by purchase accounting, (2) fewer inventory markdowns in the Emerging Brands operating group and (3) reduced freight costs resulting primarily from lower ocean freight rates. These increases were partially offset by (1) increased e-commerce flash clearance sales in Lilly Pulitzer, (2) increased sales during the loyalty award, Flip Side marketing, and end of season clearance events in Tommy Bahama and (3) $7 million in higher LIFO accounting charges in Fiscal 2023 compared to Fiscal 2022. We estimate that the 53rd week in Fiscal 2023 resulted in approximately $10 million of additional gross profit.
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Tommy Bahama:
The comparable gross margin for Tommy Bahama was primarily due to increased sales during special event promotions, including loyalty award card, Flip Side, Friends & Family and gift with purchase events and end of season clearance events. This decrease was partially offset by (1) reduced freight costs resulting primarily from lower ocean freight rates, (2) improved gross margin at food & beverage locations primarily resulting from lower food costs and (3) improved gross margin in outlet stores due primarily to the availability of newer product from full-price retail stores.
Lilly Pulitzer:
The lower gross margin for Lilly Pulitzer was primarily due to (1) a change in sales mix with flash clearance sales representing a larger proportion of net sales, (2) higher loyalty reward discounts driven by the new loyalty program implemented in 2023 and (3) a change in sales mix with off-price sales representing a larger proportion of wholesale sales. These decreases were partially offset by (1) an increase in initial product margins and (2) reduced freight costs resulting primarily from lower ocean freight rates.
Johnny Was:
Gross margin for Fiscal 2023 was 67.8% compared to 61.7% in Fiscal 2022 for the 19 weeks from September 19, 2022 through the end of Fiscal 2022. Gross margin in Fiscal 2022 was unfavorably impacted by $4 million of incremental cost of goods sold resulting from the charge related to the step up of inventory to fair value at acquisition.
Emerging Brands:
The higher gross margin for Emerging Brands was primarily due to (1) fewer inventory markdowns and (2) a change in sales mix with direct to consumer sales representing a greater proportion of net sales. This increase was partially offset by lower gross margin on wholesale sales due to off-price wholesale sales of previously marked down inventory representing a greater proportion of wholesale sales.
Corporate and Other:
The gross profit in Corporate and Other primarily includes the impact of LIFO accounting adjustments, the sales of the Lyons, Georgia distribution center operations to third parties and the sales of the Oxford America business. The primary driver for the decreased gross profit was the $7 million higher LIFO accounting charge. The LIFO accounting impact in Corporate and Other in each period includes the net impact of (1) a charge in Corporate and Other when inventory that had been marked down in an operating group in a prior period was ultimately sold, (2) a credit in Corporate and Other when inventory had been marked down in an operating group in the current period, but had not been sold as of period end and (3) the change in the LIFO reserve.
SG&A
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
SG&A (as a % of net sales) 52.2 % 49.0 %
Notable items included in amounts above:
Amortization of Johnny Was intangible assets $ 13,852 $ 5,194
SG&A was $821 million in Fiscal 2023 compared to SG&A of $692 million in Fiscal 2022 with approximately $85 million, or 66%, of the increase due to the SG&A of Johnny Was. The 19% increase in total SG&A in Fiscal 2023 included the following, each of which includes the SG&A of Johnny Was: (1) increased employment costs of $46 million, primarily due to increased head count, pay rate increases and other employment cost increases, including in our direct to
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consumer and distribution center operations partially offset by lower incentive compensation amounts, (2) a $22 million increase in advertising expense, (3) a $15 million increase in occupancy expenses, (4) a $12 million increase in variable expenses related to higher sales, including credit card transaction fees, supplies, commissions, royalties and other expense, (5) a $9 million increase in amortization of intangible assets, (6) a $6 million increase in depreciation expense and (7) a $5 million increase in administrative expenses including professional fees, travel and other items. These increases were partially offset by the lack of $3 million in transaction expenses associated with the Johnny Was acquisition in Fiscal 2022. We estimate that the 53rd week in Fiscal 2023 resulted in approximately $11 million of incremental SG&A.
Impairment of goodwill, intangible assets and equity method investments
As a result of the annual impairment assessments performed in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2023, noncash impairment charges for goodwill and intangible assets totaling $111 million were recognized in the Johnny Was reporting unit. The impairment charges for Johnny Was reflect the current challenging macroeconomic environment that has resulted in a more cautious consumer and elevated interest rates for prolonged periods. The more cautious consumer has both negatively impacted Johnny Was’ wholesale customers and direct to consumer operations resulting in Johnny Was not performing as originally projected for Fiscal 2023 and the moderation of forecasted revenue and operating income in future years. Interest rates also increased significantly after the acquisition of Johnny Was in September 2022 and have remained at elevated levels, leading to an increase in discount rates used in our impairment analyses. Refer to Note 5 in the consolidated financial statements included in this report for additional disclosure regarding the Johnny Was impairment charges recognized in Fiscal 2023. There were no impairment charges for goodwill or intangible assets in Fiscal 2022.
In the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2023, we also recognized noncash impairment charges of $2 million related to an equity method investment in a smaller lifestyle brand that resulted from the entity’s forecast of future losses. Refer to “Equity Investments in Unconsolidated Entities” in Note 1 in the consolidated financial statements for additional disclosure regarding the impairment charge recognized in Fiscal 2023. There were no impairment charges for equity method investments in Fiscal 2022.
Royalties and other operating income
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
Notable items included in amounts above:
Gain on sale of Merida manufacturing facility $ (1,756) $ —
Royalties and other operating income typically consist of royalty income received from third parties from the licensing of our brands. Royalty income in Fiscal 2023 decreased by $2 million primarily due to (1) $2 million of lower royalties and other operating income in Tommy Bahama resulting from lower sales of our licensing partners and (2) a $2 million loss recognized in the Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa reflected in Corporate and Other. The Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa was remodeled and rebranded during Fiscal 2023 which led to increased expenses during the remodel and relaunch periods. These decreases were partially offset by a $2 million gain on the sale of the Merida manufacturing facility in Mexico in Fiscal 2023.
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Operating income
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
Notable items included in amounts above:
LIFO adjustments in Corporate and Other $ 9,605 $ 2,667
Inventory step-up charge included in Johnny Was $ — $ 4,230
Amortization of Johnny Was intangible assets $ 13,852 $ 5,194
Impairment of investment in unconsolidated entity $ 2,475 $ —
Gain on sale of Merida manufacturing facility $ (1,756) $ —
Operating income was $81 million in Fiscal 2023 compared to $219 million in Fiscal 2022. The decreased operating income included lower operating income in all operating groups including an increased operating loss in Corporate and Other. Changes in operating income (loss) by operating group are discussed below.
Tommy Bahama:
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
Operating income as % of net sales 17.9 % 19.6 %
The decreased operating income for Tommy Bahama was primarily due to (1) increased SG&A and (2) lower royalty income. These decreases were partially offset by higher sales. The increased SG&A was primarily due to (1) $14 million of increased employment costs, (2) a $4 million increase in advertising expense, (3) $4 million of increased variable expenses and (4) a $1 million increase in occupancy expenses. These increases were partially offset by a $3 million decrease in administrative expenses including professional fees, travel and other items.
Lilly Pulitzer:
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
Gross margin 65.9 % 66.3 %
Operating income as % of net sales 16.3 % 19.8 %
The decreased operating income for Lilly Pulitzer was due to (1) increased SG&A and (2) lower gross margin. These decreases were partially offset by higher sales. The increased SG&A was primarily due to (1) $4 million of increased employment costs, (2) $4 million of increased depreciation and (3) $2 million of increased variable expenses.
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Johnny Was:
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
Gross margin 67.8 % 61.7 %
Operating loss as % of net sales (51.6) % (2.1) %
Notable items included in amounts above:
Inventory step-up charge included in Johnny Was $ — $ 4,230
Amortization of Johnny Was intangible assets $ 13,852 $ 5,194
The operating results for Johnny Was in Fiscal 2023 include a full year of operations. Fiscal 2022 only included the 19 weeks from September 19, 2022, through the end of the fiscal year. The lower operating results for Johnny Was in Fiscal 2023 were primarily due to (1) the $111 million impairment charge for goodwill and intangible assets in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2023, (2) a $9 million increase in amortization of intangible assets and (3) $1 million of costs associated with the implementation of a new e-commerce platform. These decreases were offset by the absence of $4 million of inventory step-up charges recorded in Fiscal 2022.
Emerging Brands:
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
Gross margin 48.7 % 45.5 %
Operating income as % of net sales 5.3 % 13.4 %
Notable items included in amounts above:
Impairment of investment in unconsolidated entity $ 2,475 $ —
The decreased operating income for Emerging Brands was due to (1) increased SG&A and (2) an impairment charge in an unconsolidated entity. These decreases were partially offset by (1) higher sales and (2) higher gross margin. The increased SG&A included (1) higher SG&A associated with new retail store operations, including related employment costs, occupancy costs and administrative expenses, (2) higher advertising expense and (3) increased variable expenses resulting from increased sales.
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Corporate and Other:
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
Notable items included in amounts above:
LIFO adjustments in Corporate and Other $ 9,605 $ 2,667
Gain on sale of Merida manufacturing facility $ (1,756) $ —
The increased operating loss in Corporate and Other was primarily a result of (1) the $7 million higher LIFO accounting charge in Fiscal 2023 relative to Fiscal 2022 and (2) a $2 million equity investment loss associated with the Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa. This decrease was partially offset by (1) decreased SG&A, including decreased incentive compensation amounts, (2) a $2 million gain on the sale of the Merida manufacturing facility in Mexico and (3) the lack of $3 million of transaction expenses and integration costs associated with the Johnny Was acquisition incurred in Fiscal 2022.
Interest expense, net
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
The higher interest expense in Fiscal 2023 was primarily due to a higher average outstanding debt balance and increased interest rates during Fiscal 2023 than Fiscal 2022. We expect average debt levels in Fiscal 2024 to be lower than Fiscal 2023.
Income taxes
Fiscal 2023 Fiscal 2022 $ Change % Change
Effective tax rate 19.0 % 23.2 %
Both Fiscal 2023 and Fiscal 2022 benefitted from the net favorable impact of certain items that resulted in a lower tax rate than the more typical annual effective tax rate of approximately 25%. Thus, the effective tax rates for Fiscal 2023 and Fiscal 2022 are not indicative of the effective tax rate expected in future periods. Refer to Note 11 of our consolidated financial statements included in this report for our income tax rate reconciliation and other information about our income tax expense for Fiscal 2023 and Fiscal 2022.
The income tax expense in Fiscal 2023 included the benefit of the vesting of restricted stock awards at a price significantly higher than the grant date fair value, the favorable utilization of research and development tax credits, changes in the fair value of life insurance policies associated with our deferred compensation plans and certain adjustments to the U.S. taxation on foreign earnings. These favorable items were partially offset by unfavorable items related to the non-deductible amounts associated with executive compensation.
The income tax expense in Fiscal 2022 included the benefit of the reversal of $2 million of valuation allowances associated with net operating loss carry-forward amounts, the utilization of net operating loss carry-forward amounts to offset current year income in certain jurisdictions, a favorable provision to return adjustment and the impact of the vesting of employee stock awards. These favorable items were partially offset by various unfavorable items related to non-deductible amounts associated with executive compensation, changes in the fair value of life insurance policies associated with our deferred compensation plans and other items.
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Net earnings
Net earnings per diluted share $ 3.82 $ 10.19
Weighted average shares outstanding - diluted 15,906 16,259
Net earnings per diluted share were $3.82 in Fiscal 2023 compared to $10.19 in Fiscal 2022. The 63% decrease in net earnings per diluted share included a 63% decrease in net earnings as well as a 2% reduction in weighted average shares outstanding due to open market share repurchases in Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2023. The decreased net earnings were primarily due to (1) lower operating income at Johnny Was primarily due to the $111 million Johnny Was impairment charge recognized in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2023, (2) lower operating income at Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, and Emerging Brands, (3) increased interest expense, (4) a higher operating loss at Corporate and Other and (5) lower royalty income. These decreases were partially offset by a lower effective tax rate.
FINANCIAL CONDITION, LIQUIDITY AND CAPITAL RESOURCES
Our primary source of revenue and cash flow is through our design, sourcing, marketing and distribution of branded apparel products bearing the trademarks of our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, Johnny Was, Southern Tide, TBBC, Duck Head and Jack Rogers lifestyle brands. We primarily distribute our products to our customers via direct to consumer channels of distribution, but we also distribute our products via wholesale channels of distribution.
Our primary uses of cash flow include the purchase of our branded apparel products from third party suppliers located outside of the United States, as well as operating expenses, including employee compensation and benefits, operating lease commitments and other occupancy-related costs, marketing and advertising costs, information technology costs, variable expenses, distribution costs, other general and administrative expenses and the periodic payment of interest. Additionally, we use our cash to fund capital expenditures and other investing activities, dividends, share repurchases and repayment of indebtedness, if any. In the ordinary course of business, we maintain certain levels of inventory, extend credit to our wholesale customers and pay our operating expenses. Thus, we require a certain amount of ongoing working capital to operate our business. Our need for working capital is typically seasonal with the greatest working capital requirements to support our larger spring, summer and holiday direct to consumer seasons. Our capital needs depend on many factors including the results of our operations and cash flows, future growth rates, the need to finance inventory levels and the success of our various products.
We have a long history of generating sufficient cash flows from operations to satisfy our cash requirements for our ongoing capital expenditure needs as well as payment of dividends and repayment of our debt. Thus, we believe our anticipated future cash flows from operating activities will provide (1) sufficient cash over both the short and long term to satisfy our ongoing operating cash requirements, (2) ample funds to continue to invest in our lifestyle brands, direct to consumer initiatives and information technology projects, (3) additional cash flow to repay outstanding debt and (4) sufficient cash for other strategic initiatives. Also, if cash inflows are less than cash outflows, we have access to amounts under our $325 million Fourth Amended and Restated Credit Agreement (as amended, the “U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement”), subject to its terms, which is described below.
Working Capital
February 3, January 28,
($ in thousands) 2024 2023 $ Change % Change
Working capital ratio 1.22 1.23
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Our working capital ratio is calculated by dividing total current assets by total current liabilities. Current assets as of February 3, 2024 decreased from January 28, 2023 primarily due to decreased inventories of $61 million. These decreases were partially offset by an increase in (1) receivables of $19 million and (2) prepaid expenses and other current assets of $5 million. Current liabilities as of February 3, 2024 decreased from January 28, 2023 primarily due to decreases in (1) accrued compensation of $11 million driven primarily by decreased accrued incentive compensation, (2) accounts payable of $9 million and (3) current operating lease liabilities of $9 million.
Balance Sheet
The following tables set forth certain information included in our consolidated balance sheets (in thousands). Below each table are explanations for any significant changes in the balances as of February 3, 2024 as compared to January 28, 2023.
Current Assets:
February 3, January 28,
Cash and cash equivalents were $8 million as of February 3, 2024, compared to $9 million as of January 28, 2023. The cash and cash equivalents balance as of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023 represent typical cash amounts maintained on an ongoing basis in our operations, which generally ranges from $5 million to $10 million at any given time. Any excess cash is generally used to repay amounts outstanding under our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement.
The increased receivables, net as of February 3, 2024, was primarily due to (1) higher wholesale trade receivables resulting primarily from higher wholesale sales in Tommy Bahama and Lilly Pulitzer in the Fourth Quarter of Fiscal 2023, (2) increased tenant improvement allowance receivables due from landlords resulting from our increased store openings during Fiscal 2023 and (3) an insurance claim filed as a result of the wildfire on the island of Maui that destroyed the Tommy Bahama Marlin Bar in Lahaina, Hawaii in the Third Quarter of Fiscal 2023.
Inventories, net, included a $83 million and $76 million LIFO reserve as of February 3, 2024, and January 28, 2023, respectively. Inventories decreased in our Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer and Emerging Brands operating groups primarily due to continuing initiatives to focus on closely managing inventory purchases and reducing on-hand inventory levels. We believe that inventory levels in all operating groups are appropriate to support anticipated sales plans.
The increase in prepaid expenses and other current assets as of February 3, 2024, was primarily due to an increase in prepaid software costs.
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Non-current Assets:
February 3, January 28,
Property and equipment, net as of February 3, 2024, increased primarily due to the capital expenditures exceeding depreciation during Fiscal 2023.
The decrease in goodwill and intangible assets, net as of February 3, 2024, was primarily due to the $99 million and $12 million goodwill and intangible assets, net, impairment charges in Johnny Was during Fiscal 2023, respectively, as discussed in Note 5 of our consolidated financial statements included in this report. Intangible assets, net as of February 3, 2024, further decreased due to the amortization of intangible assets acquired in the acquisition of Johnny Was. The decrease in goodwill resulting from the Johnny Was impairment charge was partially offset by (1) the acquisition of Jack Rogers, (2) the acquisition of six former Southern Tide signature stores and (3) measurement period adjustments related to the acquisition of Johnny Was.
Operating lease assets as of February 3, 2024, increased primarily due to the addition of new leased locations, or the extension of existing leased locations, exceeding the recognition of amortization related to existing operating leases and the termination or reduced term of certain operating leases.
Deferred income taxes increased as of February 3, 2024, due primarily to the impairment of the Johnny Was goodwill and intangible asset balances that resulted in a change from a net deferred income tax liability position to a net deferred income tax asset position.
Liabilities:
February 3, January 28,
Deferred income taxes — 2,981 (2,981) (100.0) %
Current liabilities decreased as of February 3, 2024, primarily due to (1) decreases in accounts payable, which was primarily due to decreased payables associated with lower inventory in transit, (2) decreases in accrued incentive compensation and (3) lower current operating lease related liabilities resulting from lease payments partially offset by the addition and extension of several leased locations. During Fiscal 2023, several new leased locations were added, and several locations were extended, which led to the addition of primarily non-current operating lease liabilities.
The reduction in long-term debt was the result of continuing initiatives to pay down our long-term debt balance.
Deferred income taxes decreased as of February 3, 2024, due primarily to the impairment of the Johnny Was goodwill and intangible asset balances that resulted in a change from a net deferred income tax liability position to a net deferred income tax asset position.
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Statement of Cash Flows
The following table sets forth the net cash flows resulting in the change in our cash and cash equivalents (in thousands):
Net change in cash and cash equivalents $ (869) $ (37,664) $ (21,741)
Cash and cash equivalents were $8 million as of February 3, 2024, compared to $9 million as of January 28, 2023. Changes in cash flows in Fiscal 2023 and Fiscal 2022 related to operating activities, investing activities and financing activities are discussed below.
Operating Activities:
In Fiscal 2023 and Fiscal 2022, operating activities provided $244 million and $126 million of cash, respectively. The cash flow from operating activities for each period primarily consisted of net earnings for the relevant period adjusted, as applicable, for non-cash activities including impairment charges, depreciation, amortization, equity-based compensation, gains on sale of assets and other non-cash items as well as the net impact of changes in deferred income taxes and operating assets and liabilities. In Fiscal 2023, changes in operating assets and liabilities had a slightly unfavorable impact on cash flow from operations primarily driven by decreases in current liabilities and increases in prepaid expenses and receivables partially offset by significant decreases in inventory balances. In Fiscal 2022 the changes in operating assets and liabilities had a significant net unfavorable impact on cash flow from operations driven primarily by increases in inventory and prepaid expenses.
Investing Activities:
In Fiscal 2023 and Fiscal 2022, investing activities used $84 million and $152 million of cash, respectively. On an ongoing basis, our cash flow primarily consists of our capital expenditures, which totaled $74 million and $47 million in Fiscal 2023 and Fiscal 2022, respectively.
In addition to our capital expenditures in Fiscal 2023, we paid (1) $12 million during Fiscal 2023 associated with acquisitions, including Jack Rogers and six former Southern Tide Signature Stores, and a working capital settlement associated with the acquisition of Johnny Was. We also received $2 million from the sale of the Merida manufacturing facility in Mexico. During Fiscal 2022, we paid $264 million for the acquisition of Johnny Was and also converted $165 million of short-term investments into cash to fund a portion of the acquisition.
In Fiscal 2024, our cash flow used in investing activities is expected to primarily consist of our capital expenditure investments in (1) the multi-year project to build a new distribution center in the Southeastern United States (2) direct to consumer operations, including opening, relocating and remodeling locations and (3) information technology initiatives, including e-commerce capabilities.
Financing Activities:
In Fiscal 2023 and Fiscal 2022, financing activities used $161 million and $12 million of cash, respectively. In Fiscal 2023, we repurchased $30 million of shares, including repurchased shares of our stock pursuant to an open market stock repurchase program and equity awards in respect of employee tax withholding liabilities; paid $42 million of dividends; and paid $2 million in deferred financing costs associated with the amendment of the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement. In Fiscal 2022, we repurchased $95 million of shares, including repurchased shares of our stock pursuant to an open market stock repurchase program and of equity awards in respect of employee tax withholding liabilities; paid
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$35 million of dividends; and paid $2 million of contingent consideration for the final contingent consideration payment related to the TBBC acquisition.
If net cash requirements are less than our net cash flows, we may repay amounts outstanding on our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement, if any, consistent with our net repayment of $90 million of long-term debt in Fiscal 2023. Alternatively, to the extent we are in a net debt position and our net cash requirements exceed our net cash flows, we may borrow amounts from our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement consistent with our borrowing of $119 million in Fiscal 2022 to fund our investing and financing activities that exceeded cash flow from operations.
Liquidity and Capital Resources
We have a long history of generating sufficient cash flows from operations to satisfy our cash requirements for our ongoing capital expenditure needs as well as payment of dividends and repayment of our debt. Thus, we believe our anticipated future cash flows from operating activities will provide (1) sufficient cash over both the short and long term to satisfy our ongoing operating cash requirements, (2) ample funds to continue to invest in our lifestyle brands, the project to build a new distribution center in the Southeastern United States, direct to consumer initiatives and information technology projects, (3) additional cash flow to repay outstanding debt and (4) sufficient cash for other strategic initiatives.
Our capital needs depend on many factors including the results of our operations and cash flows, future growth rates, the need to finance inventory and the success of our various products. To the extent cash flow needs in the future exceed cash flow provided by our operations, we will have access, subject to its terms, to our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement to provide funding for operating activities, capital expenditures and acquisitions, if any, and any other investing or financing activities.
Our cash and debt, as well as availability, levels in future periods will not be comparable to historical amounts, particularly after the completion of the acquisition of Johnny Was in Fiscal 2022. Further, we continue to assess, and may possibly make changes to, our capital structure, which we may achieve by borrowing from additional credit facilities, selling debt or equity securities or repurchasing additional shares of our stock in the future. Changes in our capital structure, if any, will depend on prevailing market conditions, our liquidity requirements, contractual restrictions and other factors. The amounts involved may be material.
$325 Million U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement
On March 6, 2023, we amended the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement to, among other things, mature in March 2028. As of February 3, 2024, we had borrowings of $29 million, issued standby letters of credit of $5 million, and availability of $288 million under the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement. The U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement amended and restated our Fourth Amended and Restated Credit Agreement (the “Prior Credit Agreement”).
Pursuant to the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement, the interest rate applicable to our borrowings under the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement is based on either the Term Secured Overnight Financing Rate plus an applicable margin of 135 to 185 basis points or prime plus an applicable margin of 25 to 75 basis points.
The U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement generally (1) is limited to a borrowing base consisting of specified percentages of eligible categories of assets, (2) accrues variable-rate interest (weighted average interest rate of 7% as of February 3, 2024), unused line fees and letter of credit fees based upon average utilization or unused availability, as applicable, (3) requires periodic interest payments with principal due at maturity and (4) is secured by a first priority security interest in substantially all of the assets of Oxford Industries, Inc. and its domestic subsidiaries, including accounts receivable, books and records, chattel paper, deposit accounts, equipment, certain general intangibles, inventory, investment property (including the equity interests of certain subsidiaries), negotiable collateral, life insurance policies, supporting obligations, commercial tort claims, cash and cash equivalents, eligible trademarks, proceeds and other personal property.
The U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement is subject to several affirmative covenants regarding the delivery of financial information, compliance with law, maintenance of property, insurance requirements and conduct of business.
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Also, the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement is subject to certain negative covenants or other restrictions including, among other things, limitations on our ability to (1) incur debt, (2) guaranty certain obligations, (3) incur liens, (4) pay dividends to shareholders, (5) repurchase shares of our common stock, (6) make investments, (7) sell assets or stock of subsidiaries, (8) acquire assets or businesses, (9) merge or consolidate with other companies or (10) prepay, retire, repurchase or redeem debt.
Additionally, the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement contains a financial covenant that applies only if excess availability under the agreement for three consecutive business days is less than the greater of (1) $23.5 million or (2) 10% of availability. In such a case, our fixed charge coverage ratio as defined in the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement must not be less than 1.0 to 1.0 for the immediately preceding 12 fiscal months for which financial statements have been delivered. This financial covenant continues to apply until we have maintained excess availability under the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement of more than the greater of (1) $23.5 million or (2) 10% of availability for 30 consecutive days.
We believe that the affirmative covenants, negative covenants, financial covenants and other restrictions under the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement are customary for those included in similar facilities entered into at the time we amended the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement. During Fiscal 2023 and as of February 3, 2024, no financial covenant testing was required pursuant to our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement or the Prior Credit Agreement, as applicable, as the minimum availability threshold was met at all times. As of February 3, 2024, we were compliant with all applicable covenants related to the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement.
Operating Lease Commitments:
In the ordinary course of business, we enter into long-term real estate lease agreements for our direct to consumer locations, which include both retail store and food and beverage locations, and office and warehouse/distribution space, as well as leases for certain equipment. Our real estate leases have varying terms and expirations and may have provisions to extend, renew or terminate the lease agreement at our discretion, among other provisions. Our real estate lease terms are typically for a period of 10 years or less and typically require monthly rent payments with specified rent escalations during the lease term. Our real estate leases usually provide for payments of our pro rata share of real estate taxes, insurance and other operating expenses applicable to the property, and certain of our leases require payment of sales taxes on rental payments. Also, our direct to consumer location leases often provide for contingent rent payments based on sales if certain sales thresholds are achieved. Base rent amounts specified in the leases are included in determining the operating lease liabilities included in our consolidated balance sheet, while amounts for real estate taxes, sales tax, insurance, other operating expenses and contingent rent applicable to the properties pursuant to the respective leases are not included in determining the operating lease liabilities included in our consolidated balance sheets.
These leases require us to make a substantial amount of cash payments on an annual basis. Base rent amounts required to be paid in the future over the remaining lease terms under our existing leases as of February 3, 2024, totaled $368 million, including $79 million, $64 million, $58 million, $45 million and $39 million of required payments in each of the next five years. Additionally, amounts for real estate taxes, sales tax, insurance, other operating expenses and contingent rent applicable to the properties pursuant to the respective operating leases are required to be paid in the future, but the amounts payable in future periods are, in most cases, not quantified in the lease agreement or are dependent on factors which may not be known at this time. Such amounts incurred in Fiscal 2023 totaled $48 million.
Refer to Note 1 and Note 7 of our consolidated financial statements for additional disclosures about our operating lease agreements and related commitments.
Capital Expenditures:
We anticipate capital expenditures for Fiscal 2024 to increase compared to the $74 million in Fiscal 2023. The planned increase is primarily due the commencement of a significant multi-year project at our new Lyons, Georgia distribution center to modernize the operations into a more efficient e-commerce distribution center for our brands, increased investment in our various technology systems initiatives, increased Marlin Bar openings and increases in store openings in Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, Johnny Was, Southern Tide and TBBC. Our capital expenditure amounts in
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future years will fluctuate from the amounts incurred in prior years depending on the investments we believe appropriate for that year to support future expansion of our businesses.
Dividends:
On March 25, 2024, our Board of Directors approved a cash dividend of $0.67 per share payable on May 3, 2024 to shareholders of record as of the close of business on April 19, 2024.
Although we have paid dividends each quarter since we became a public company in July 1960, including $42 million in total, or $2.60 per common share, in Fiscal 2023, we may discontinue or modify dividend payments at any time if we determine that other uses of our capital, including payment of outstanding debt, funding of acquisitions, funding of capital expenditures or repurchases of outstanding shares, may be in our best interest; if our expectations of future cash flows and future cash needs outweigh the ability to pay a dividend; or if the terms of our credit facility, other debt instruments or applicable law limit our ability to pay dividends. We may borrow to fund dividends or repurchase shares in the short term subject to the terms and conditions of our credit facility, other debt instruments and applicable law. All cash flow from operations will not be paid out as dividends. For details about limitations on our ability to pay dividends, see the discussion of our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement above and in Note 6 of our consolidated financial statements contained in this report.
Share Repurchases:
As disclosed in our Quarterly Report on Form 10-Q for the Third Quarter of Fiscal 2021, and in subsequent filings, on December 7, 2021, our Board of Directors authorized us to spend up to $150 million to repurchase shares of our stock. This authorization superseded and replaced all previous authorizations to repurchase shares of our stock and has no automatic expiration. Pursuant to the Board of Directors’ authorization, we entered into a $20 million open market stock repurchase program (Rule 10b5-1 plan) in the First Quarter of Fiscal 2023 to acquire shares of our stock, under which we repurchased shares of our stock totaling: (1) $19 million in Second Quarter of Fiscal 2023 and (2) $1 million in the Third Quarter of Fiscal 2023, which completed the purchases pursuant to the open market stock repurchase program. Over the life of the $20 million open market repurchase program we repurchased 196,000 shares, or 1% of our outstanding shares at the commencement of the program for an average price of $102 per share.
After considering the repurchases during Fiscal 2023, as of February 3, 2024, there were no amounts remaining under the open market repurchase program and $30 million remaining under the Board of Directors’ authorization.
Other Liquidity Items:
We have not entered into agreements which meet the SEC’s definition of an off balance sheet financing arrangement, other than operating leases, and have made no financial commitments or guarantees with respect to any unconsolidated subsidiaries or special purpose entities.
CRITICAL ACCOUNTING POLICIES AND ESTIMATES
The discussion and analysis of our financial condition and results of operations are based upon our consolidated financial statements, which have been prepared in accordance with GAAP in a consistent manner. The preparation of these financial statements requires the selection and application of accounting policies. Further, the application of GAAP requires us to make estimates and judgments about future events that affect the reported amounts of assets, liabilities, revenues and expenses and related disclosures. We base our estimates on historical experience, current trends and various other assumptions that we believe are reasonable under the circumstances, the results of which form the basis for making judgments about the carrying values of assets and liabilities that are not readily apparent from other sources.
Actual results may differ from these estimates under different assumptions or conditions. We believe it is possible that other professionals, applying reasonable judgment to the same set of facts and circumstances, could develop and support a range of alternative estimated amounts. We believe that we have appropriately applied our critical accounting
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policies. However, in the event that inappropriate assumptions or methods were used relating to the critical accounting policies, our consolidated statements of operations could be materially misstated.
A detailed summary of significant accounting policies is included in Note 1 of our consolidated financial statements contained in this report. The following is a brief discussion of the more significant estimates, assumptions and judgments we use or the amounts most sensitive to change from outside factors.
Revenue Recognition and Accounts Receivable
Our revenue consists of direct to consumer sales, including our retail store, e-commerce and food and beverage operations, and wholesale sales, as well as royalty income, which is included in royalties and other income in our consolidated statements of operations. We recognize revenue when performance obligations under the terms of the contracts with our customers are satisfied, which generally occurs when we deliver our products to our direct to consumer and wholesale customers.
In our direct to consumer operations, which represented 80% of our consolidated net sales in Fiscal 2023, consumers have certain rights to return product within a specified period and are eligible for certain point of sale discounts. We make estimates of reserves for products which were sold prior to the balance sheet date but that we anticipate may be returned by the consumer subsequent to that date. The determination of direct to consumer return reserve amounts requires judgment and consideration of historical and current trends, evaluation of current economic trends and other factors. As of February 3, 2024, our direct to consumer return reserve liability was $13 million compared to $12 million as of January 28, 2023. A 10% change in the direct to consumer sales return reserve as of February 3, 2024 would have had an impact of less than $1 million on net earnings in Fiscal 2023.
In the ordinary course of our wholesale operations, we offer discounts, allowances and cooperative advertising support to some of our wholesale accounts for certain products. As certain allowances, other deductions and returns are not finalized until the end of a season, program or other event which may not have occurred yet, we estimate such discounts, allowances and returns on an ongoing basis to estimate the consideration from the customer that we expect to ultimately receive. Significant considerations in determining our estimates for these amounts for wholesale customers may include historical and current trends, agreements with customers, projected seasonal or program results, an evaluation of current economic conditions, specific program or product expectations and retailer performance. As of February 3, 2024, our total reserves for discounts, returns and allowances for our wholesale businesses were $3 million compared to $4 million as of January 28, 2023. If these allowances changed by 10% it would have had an impact of less than $1 million on net earnings in Fiscal 2023.
We extend credit to certain wholesale customers based on an evaluation of the customer’s financial capacity and condition, usually without requiring collateral. We recognize estimated provisions for credit losses based on our historical collection experience, the financial condition of our customers, an evaluation of current economic conditions, anticipated trends, and the risk characteristics of the receivables, each of which is subjective and requires certain assumptions. As of both February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, our provision for credit losses for our wholesale receivables was $1 million. If the provision for credit losses changed by 10% it would have had an impact of less than $1 million on net earnings in Fiscal 2023.
Inventories, net
For operating group reporting, our inventory is carried at the lower of the first-in, first-out (“FIFO”) cost or market. We evaluate the composition of our inventories for identification of distressed inventory at least quarterly. We estimate the amount of goods that we will not be able to sell in the normal course of business and write down the value of these goods as necessary. As the amount to be ultimately realized for the goods is not necessarily known at period end, we must use certain assumptions considering historical experience, inventory quantity, quality, age and mix, historical sales trends, future sales projections, consumer and retailer preferences, market trends, general economic conditions and our anticipated plans to sell the inventory.
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For consolidated financial reporting, $146 million, or 92%, of our inventories were valued at the lower of the last-in, first-out (“LIFO”) cost or market after deducting the $83 million LIFO reserve as of February 3, 2024. The remaining $13 million of our inventories were valued at the lower of FIFO cost or market as of February 3, 2024. LIFO reserves are based on the Producer Price Index (“PPI”) as published by the United States Department of Labor. We write down inventories valued at the lower of LIFO cost or market when LIFO cost exceeds market value.
As of February 3, 2024, we had recorded a reserve of $4 million related to inventory on the lower of FIFO cost or market method and for inventory on the lower of LIFO cost or market method with markdowns in excess of our LIFO reserve. A 10% change in the amount of such markdowns would have had an impact of less than $1 million on net earnings in Fiscal 2023. A change in the markdowns of our inventory valued at the lower of LIFO cost or market method that is not marked down in excess of our LIFO reserve typically would not be expected to have a material impact on our consolidated financial statements. A change in inventory levels, the mix of inventory by category or the PPI at the end of future fiscal years compared to amounts as of February 3, 2024 could result in a material impact on our consolidated financial statements in the future.
Given the significant amount of uncertainty surrounding the year-end LIFO calculation, including the estimate of year-end inventory balances, the proportion of inventory in each category and the year-end PPI, we have not typically adjusted our LIFO reserve in the first three quarters of a fiscal year. However, due to changes in the levels of inflation throughout Fiscal 2023, in addition to our Fourth Quarter adjustment at the end of Fiscal 2023, we also recognized an adjustment to the LIFO reserve in the Third Quarter of Fiscal 2023. Our policy of typically not adjusting the LIFO reserve at interim periods may result in significant LIFO accounting adjustments in the Fourth Quarter of the fiscal year. We do recognize changes in markdown reserves during each quarter of the fiscal year as those amounts can be estimated on an interim basis.
Business Combinations
From time-to-time, we make strategic acquisitions that may have a material effect on our consolidated results of operations and financial position. The measurement principle for the assets acquired and the liabilities assumed in a business combination is at estimated fair value as of the acquisition date, with certain exceptions.
At acquisition, we use estimates that can be complex and require significant judgments to record the fair value of purchased intangible assets, which primarily consist of trademarks, as well as customer relationships and reacquired rights. The fair values and useful lives of these intangible assets are estimated based on our assessment as well as independent third party appraisals in some cases. Additionally, at acquisition we must determine whether the intangible asset has an indefinite or finite life and account for it accordingly. Refer to Note 5 for additional details about intangible assets.
Goodwill is recognized as the amount by which the cost to acquire a business exceeds the fair value of identified tangible and intangible assets acquired, net of assumed liabilities. Thus, the amount of goodwill recognized in connection with a business combination depends on the fair values assigned to the individual assets acquired and liabilities assumed in a business combination. Goodwill is allocated to the respective reporting unit at the time of acquisition. Refer to “Note 5—Intangible Assets and Goodwill Intangible Assets and Goodwill” for additional information about our goodwill amounts.
At acquisition, assumptions and estimates about various items with significant uncertainty are required to determine the fair value of intangible assets and goodwill. When determining the fair value of intangible assets, including trademarks, customer relationships and other items, significant assumptions may include our planned use of the asset as well as estimates of net sales, royalty income, operating income, growth rates, royalty rates for the trademarks, a risk-adjusted, market-based cost of capital for the discount rates, income tax rates, anticipated cash flows and probabilities of cash flows, among other factors. Our fair value assessment may also consider any comparable market transactions. The use of different assumptions related to these uncertain factors at acquisition could result in a material change to the amounts of intangible assets and goodwill initially recorded at acquisition, which could result in a material impact on our consolidated financial statements.
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The acquisition method requires us to record provisional amounts for any items for which the accounting is not complete at the end of a reporting period. We must complete the accounting during the measurement period, which cannot exceed one year. Adjustments made during the measurement period could have a material impact on our financial condition and results of operations. If our operating results, plans for the acquired business and/or macroeconomic conditions, anticipated results or other assumptions change after an acquisition, it could result in the impairment of the acquired intangible assets or goodwill. Also, a change in macroeconomic conditions may not only impact the estimated operating cash flows used in our cash flow models but may also impact other assumptions used in our analysis, including but not limited to, the risk-adjusted market-based cost of capital and/or discount rates.
Goodwill and Intangible Assets, net
We test goodwill for impairment at the reporting unit level annually on the first day of the fourth quarter and more often if an event occurs or circumstances change that indicate the fair value of a reporting unit is below its carrying amount. We have the option to first assess qualitative factors to determine whether it is more likely than not that goodwill is impaired to determine whether it is necessary to perform the quantitative impairment test. We also have the option to bypass the qualitative assessment entirely for any reporting unit in any period and proceed directly to performing the quantitative impairment test. For each impairment test of goodwill in Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021, we bypassed the qualitative test option and instead performed a quantitative test.
When applying the quantitative assessment, we determine the fair value of our reporting units based on an income approach, or in some cases a combination of an income approach and market approach. The income approach calculates a value based upon the present value of estimated future cash flows, while the market approach uses earnings multiples of similarly situated guideline public companies. Determining the fair value of a reporting unit involves judgment and the use of significant estimates and assumptions, which include assumptions regarding the revenue growth rates and operating margins used to calculate estimated future cash flows, risk-adjusted discount rates and future economic and market conditions. If an annual or interim analysis indicates an impairment of goodwill, the amount of the impairment is recognized in our consolidated financial statements based on the amount that the carrying value exceeds the estimated fair value of the reporting unit.
Intangible assets with indefinite lives, which primarily consist of trademarks, are not amortized but instead evaluated for impairment annually or more frequently if events or circumstances indicate that the intangible asset might be impaired. This analysis is dependent upon a number of uncertain factors described below and is typically performed in conjunction with the goodwill impairment analysis discussed above and is similar to the analysis performed at acquisition.
The fair value of our trademarks is principally determined by the “relief from royalty” approach that assumes the trademarks have value to the extent that their owner is relieved of the obligation to pay royalties for the benefits received from them. This method includes assumptions regarding revenue growth rates, royalty rates, risk-adjusted discount rates and future economic and market conditions. If an annual or interim analysis indicates an impairment of an intangible asset with an indefinite useful life, the amount of the impairment is recognized in our consolidated financial statements based on the amount that the carrying value exceeds the estimated fair value of the asset for an intangible asset with an indefinite life or the reporting unit for goodwill.
Indefinite-lived intangible assets and goodwill that have been recently acquired or impaired are typically much more sensitive to changes in assumptions than other intangible asset and goodwill amounts as those amounts have recently been recorded at or adjusted to fair value. Consequently, if operating results, plans for the acquired business and/or macroeconomic conditions change after an acquisition, it could result in the impairment of the acquired intangible assets or goodwill. A change in macroeconomic conditions may not only impact the estimated operating cash flows used in our cash flow models but may also impact other assumptions used in our analysis, including but not limited to, the risk-adjusted market-based cost of capital and/or discount rates. Additionally, we are required to ensure that assumptions used to determine fair value in our analyses are consistent with the assumptions a hypothetical market participant would use. Therefore, the cost of capital discount rates used in our analyses may increase or decrease based on market conditions and trends regardless of whether our actual cost of capital changed.
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The use of different assumptions could result in the determination of a different fair value and a different impairment charge or charges in different periods. For further discussion of the methods used and factors considered in our estimates as part of the impairment testing for goodwill and intangible assets with indefinite lives see “Note 1—Business and Summary of Significant Accounting Policies.” See “Note 5—Intangible Assets and Goodwill Intangible Assets and Goodwill” for discussion of the impairment charges recognized in Fiscal 2023. The indefinite-lived trademarks and goodwill associated with Johnny Was that were impaired and adjusted to fair value during Fiscal 2023 have the least excess of fair value over book value as of February 3, 2024, since they are the most recently acquired and impaired. Thus, if the Johnny Was business does not achieve the anticipated growth and operating income in future years or if interest rates or tax rates increase, additional impairments of the Johnny Was intangible assets could be necessary in the future. No impairment charges related to intangible assets or goodwill were recognized in Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021.
Intangible assets with finite lives primarily consist of customer relationships, certain trademarks and reacquired rights. These assets are amortized over their estimated useful lives and reviewed for impairment periodically if events or changes in circumstances indicate that the carrying amount may not be recoverable. If the assets are determined to not be recoverable on an undiscounted cash flow basis and the expected future discounted cash flows of the asset group are less than the carrying amount, an asset group is impaired and a loss is recorded for the amount by which the carrying value of the asset group exceeds its fair value.
Other Fair Value Measurements
For many assets and liabilities, the determination of fair value may not require the use of many assumptions or other estimates. However, in some cases the assumptions or inputs associated with the determination of fair value may require the use of many assumptions which may be internally derived or otherwise unobservable. These assumptions may include the planned use of the assets, anticipated cash flows, probabilities of cash flows, discount rates and other factors. We use certain market-based and internally derived information and make assumptions about the information in (1) determining the fair values of assets and liabilities acquired as part of a business combination, (2) adjusting recognized assets and liabilities to fair value and (3) assessing recognized assets for impairment, including intangible assets, goodwill and other non-current assets.
From time to time, we may recognize asset impairment or other charges related to certain lease assets, property and equipment or other amounts associated with us exiting direct to consumer locations, office space or otherwise. In these cases, we must determine the impairment charge related to the asset group if the assets are determined to not be recoverable on an undiscounted cash flow basis and the expected future discounted cash flows of the asset group are less than the carrying amount. While estimated cash outflows can be determined, in certain cases, if there is an underlying lease, the timing and amount of estimated cash inflows for any sublease rental income and other costs are often uncertain, particularly if there is not a sub-lease agreement in place. Also, we could subsequently negotiate a lease termination agreement that would differ from the estimated amount. Thus, our estimate of an impairment charge related to an asset group could change significantly as we obtain better information in future periods.
Income Taxes
Income taxes included in our consolidated financial statements are determined using the asset and liability method, in which income taxes are recognized based on amounts of income tax payable or refundable in the current year as well as the impact of any items that are recognized in different periods for consolidated financial statement reporting purposes and tax return reporting purposes. Significant judgment is required in determining our income tax provision as there are many transactions and calculations where the ultimate tax outcome is uncertain and tax laws and regulations are often complex and subject to interpretation and judgment. These uncertainties relate to the recognition or changes to the realizability of deferred tax assets, loss carry-forwards, valuation allowances, uncertain tax positions and other matters. Our assessment of these income tax matters requires our consideration of taxable income and other items for historical periods, projected future taxable income, projected future reversals of existing timing differences, tax planning strategies and other information.
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The use of different assumptions related to the income tax matters above, as well as a shift in earnings among jurisdictions, changes in tax laws, enacted rates or interpretations, court case decisions, statute of limitation expirations or audit settlements, each could have a significant impact on our income tax rate.
We are subject to income taxes in the U.S. and certain other foreign jurisdictions and are periodically under audit by tax authorities. The final determination of tax audits could be materially different from historical outcomes and may adversely impact our tax expense and cash flows. An increase in our consolidated income tax expense rate from 19.0% to 20.0% during Fiscal 2023 would have reduced net earnings by $1 million. See Note 11 of our consolidated financial statements included in this report for further discussion of income taxes.
RECENT ACCOUNTING PRONOUNCEMENTS
Refer to Note 1 of our consolidated financial statements included in this report for a discussion of recent accounting pronouncements issued by the FASB that we have not yet adopted that may have a material effect on our financial position, results of operations or cash flows in the future.
SEASONALITY
Each of our operating groups is impacted by seasonality as the demand by specific product or style, as well as by distribution channel, may vary significantly depending on the time of year. For information regarding the impact of seasonality on our business operations, see Part I, Item 1, Business, included in this report.
Item 7A. Quantitative and Qualitative Disclosures About Market Risk
We are exposed to market risk in the ordinary course of business from changes in interest rates, commodity prices and foreign currency exchange rates. In recent years, we have not used financial instruments to mitigate our exposure to these risks, and we do not use financial instruments for trading or other speculative purposes. However, we could use financial instruments to mitigate our exposure to these risks in the future.
Interest Rate Risk
We are exposed to market risk from changes in interest rates on our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement when we have any borrowings outstanding, which could impact our financial condition and results of operations in future periods. Our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement accrues interest based on variable interest rates while providing the necessary borrowing flexibility we require due to the seasonality of our business and our need to fund certain product purchases with trade letters of credit. Additionally, for the amounts of unused credit under the U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement we pay unused line fees, which are based on a specified percentage of the unused line amounts.
As of February 3, 2024, we had $29 million of borrowings outstanding under our U.S. Revolving Credit Agreement, after borrowing amounts to fund the Johnny Was acquisition in Fiscal 2022. We do not consider that amount to necessarily be indicative of the average borrowings outstanding expected for Fiscal 2024 due to our expectation that we will reduce debt levels during Fiscal 2024, particularly in the first quarter. Our expected cash flows from operations is expected to be sufficient to fund our planned capital expenditures and dividends as well as allow for the repayment of a portion of our outstanding debt in Fiscal 2024. As of February 3, 2024, the weighted average interest rate on our borrowings was 7%, which includes borrowings pursuant to arrangements based on the Term Secured Overnight Financing Rate or the lender’s prime rate plus an applicable margin. Using the $29 million of variable-rate debt outstanding as of February 3, 2024 as an example, a 100 basis point increase in interest rates would increase interest expense by less than $1 million.
Foreign Currency Risk
We have exposure to foreign currency exchange rate changes including the impact of the re-measurement of transaction amounts into the respective functional currency and the translation of our foreign subsidiary financial statements into U.S. dollars. Also, although we purchase substantially all of our product purchases pursuant to a U.S. dollar
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denominated arrangement, future product costs could increase as a result of fluctuations in the exchange rate between the U.S. dollar and the local currencies of our suppliers.
With 97% of our consolidated net sales in the United States, we do not anticipate that the impact of foreign currency changes on our foreign operations would have a material impact on our consolidated net sales, operating income or net earnings in the near term. Our foreign currency exchange rate risk is discussed in Foreign Currency in Note 1 of our consolidated financial statements included in this report.
Commodity and Inflation Risk
We are affected by inflation and changing prices through the purchase of full-package finished goods from suppliers, who manufacture products consisting of various raw material components, including fabrics made of cotton, silk, linen, polyester, cellulosic fibers, leather and other natural and man-made fibers, or blends of two or more of these materials. Inflation/deflation risks are managed by each operating group, when possible, through negotiating product prices in advance, selective price increases and cost containment initiatives. We have not historically entered into significant long-term sales or purchase contracts or engaged in hedging activities with respect to our commodity risks.
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Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data
OXFORD INDUSTRIES, INC.
CONSOLIDATED BALANCE SHEETS
($ in thousands, except par amounts)
February 3, January 28,
ASSETS
Current Assets
Cash and cash equivalents $ 7,604 $ 8,826
Prepaid expenses and other current assets 43,035 38,073
LIABILITIES AND SHAREHOLDERS’ EQUITY
Current Liabilities
Current portion of operating lease liabilities 64,576 73,865
Accrued expenses and other liabilities 66,863 66,141
Non-current portion of operating lease liabilities 243,703 220,709
Deferred income taxes — 2,981
Shareholders’ Equity
Accumulated other comprehensive loss (2,735) (1,824)
See accompanying notes.
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OXFORD INDUSTRIES, INC.
CONSOLIDATED STATEMENTS OF OPERATIONS
($ and shares in thousands, except per share amounts)
Fiscal Fiscal Fiscal
Net earnings per share:
Weighted average shares outstanding:
Dividends declared per share $ 2.60 $ 2.20 $ 1.63
See accompanying notes.
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OXFORD INDUSTRIES, INC.
CONSOLIDATED STATEMENTS OF COMPREHENSIVE INCOME
($ in thousands)
Fiscal Fiscal Fiscal
Other comprehensive income (loss), net of taxes:
Net foreign currency translation adjustment (911) 1,648 192
See accompanying notes.
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OXFORD INDUSTRIES, INC.
CONSOLIDATED STATEMENTS OF SHAREHOLDERS’ EQUITY
($ in thousands)
Accumulated
Additional Other
Common Paid-In Retained Comprehensive
Stock Capital Earnings (Loss) Income Total
Net earnings and other comprehensive income — — 131,321 192 131,513
Shares issued under equity plans 41 1,411 — — 1,452
Compensation expense for equity awards — 8,186 — — 8,186
Cash dividends declared and paid — — (27,873) — (27,873)
Shares issued under equity plans 26 1,573 — — 1,599
Compensation expense for equity awards — 10,577 — — 10,577
Cash dividends declared and paid — — (36,114) — (36,114)
Shares issued under equity plans 144 1,767 — — 1,911
Compensation expense for equity awards — 14,473 — — 14,473
Cash dividends declared and paid — — (41,539) — (41,539)
See accompanying notes.
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OXFORD INDUSTRIES, INC.
CONSOLIDATED STATEMENTS OF CASH FLOWS
($ in thousands)
Fiscal Fiscal Fiscal
Cash Flows From Operating Activities:
Impairment of property and equipment 584 1,430 1,656
Gain on sale of investment in unconsolidated entity — — (11,586)
Gain on sale of property and equipment (1,756) (600) (2,669)
Amortization and write-off of deferred financing costs 569 344 344
Change in fair value of contingent consideration — — 1,188
Income tax receivable (109) 288 (1,753)
Prepaid expenses and other current assets (4,931) (12,793) (889)
Cash Flows From Investing Activities:
Acquisitions, net of cash acquired (11,975) (263,648) —
Purchases of short-term investments — (70,000) (165,000)
Proceeds from short-term investments — 234,852 —
Other investing activities (33) (6,283) 736
Cash Flows From Financing Activities:
Repayment of revolving credit arrangements (477,350) (145,894) —
Proceeds from revolving credit arrangements 387,643 264,905 —
Deferred financing costs paid (1,661) — —
Proceeds from issuance of common stock 1,911 1,599 1,452
Other financing activities — (2,010) (749)
Net change in cash and cash equivalents $ (869) $ (37,664) $ (21,741)
Cash and cash equivalents at the beginning of year 8,826 44,859 66,013
Cash and cash equivalents at the end of period $ 7,604 $ 8,826 $ 44,859
See accompanying notes.
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OXFORD INDUSTRIES, INC.
NOTES TO CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
February 3, 2024
Note 1. Business and Summary of Significant Accounting Policies
Description of Business
We are a leading branded apparel company that designs, sources, markets and distributes products bearing the trademarks of our Tommy Bahama®, Lilly Pulitzer®, Johnny Was®, Southern Tide®, The Beaufort Bonnet Company®, Duck Head® and Jack Rogers® lifestyle brands. We distribute our products through our direct to consumer channels, consisting of our brand specific full-price retail stores, e-commerce websites and outlet stores, and our wholesale distribution channel, which includes sales to various specialty stores, Signature Stores, better department stores, multi-branded e-commerce websites and other retailers. Additionally, we operate Tommy Bahama food and beverage locations, including Marlin Bars and full-service restaurants, generally adjacent to a Tommy Bahama full-price retail store.
On September 19, 2022, we acquired the Johnny Was lifestyle apparel brand and its related assets and operations, which is discussed in further detail in Note 4. Also, in Fiscal 2021, we exited our Lanier Apparel business, as discussed in Note 12. Additionally, refer to Note 2 for certain financial information about the Johnny Was and Lanier Apparel operating groups.
Recent Macroeconomic Conditions
The COVID-19 pandemic had a significant effect on overall economic conditions and our operations in recent years and accelerated or exacerbated many of the challenges in the industry. Exceptionally strong consumer demand, along with the strength of our brands, resulted in record earnings for us during both Fiscal 2021 and Fiscal 2022. The strong earnings in recent periods are despite certain challenges in the retail apparel market, including labor shortages, supply chain disruptions and product and operating cost increases in Fiscal 2021 and Fiscal 2022. We, as well as others in our industry, have increased prices to attempt to offset inflationary pressures.
Further, negative economic conditions often have a longer and more severe impact on the apparel industry than on other industries due, in part, to apparel purchases often being more of a discretionary purchase. The current macroenvironment, with heightened concerns about inflation, a global economic recession, geopolitical issues, the stability of the U.S. banking system, the availability and cost of credit and elevated interest rates for prolonged periods, is creating a complex and challenging retail environment, which impacted our businesses during Fiscal 2023 and continues to affect our operations. As a result of the macroeconomic environment, we saw reduced conversion rates in our direct to consumer operations and a year-over-year decline in net earnings and operating income. There remains significant uncertainty in the macroeconomic environment, and the impact of these and other factors could have a major effect on our businesses.
Fiscal Year
We operate and report on a 52/53-week fiscal year. Our fiscal year ends on the Saturday closest to January 31 and is designated by the calendar year in which the fiscal year commences. As used in our consolidated financial statements, the terms Fiscal 2021, Fiscal 2022, Fiscal 2023 and Fiscal 2024 reflect the 52 weeks ended January 29, 2022; 52 weeks ended January 28, 2023; 53 weeks ended February 3, 2024; and 52 weeks ending February 1, 2025, respectively.
Principles of Consolidation
Our consolidated financial statements include the accounts of Oxford Industries, Inc. and any other entities in which we have a controlling financial interest, including our wholly-owned domestic and foreign subsidiaries, or variable interest entities for which we are the primary beneficiary, if any. Generally, we consolidate businesses in which we have a controlling financial interest which may be evidenced through ownership of a majority voting interest or other rights which might indicate that we are the primary beneficiary of the entity. The primary beneficiary has both the power to direct the activities of the entity that most significantly impact the entity’s economic performance and the obligation to absorb
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NOTES TO CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS (Continued)
losses or the right to receive benefits from the entity that could potentially be significant to the entity. All significant intercompany accounts and transactions are eliminated in consolidation.
Business Combinations
From time-to-time, we make strategic acquisitions that may have a material effect on our consolidated results of operations and financial position. The measurement principle for the assets acquired and the liabilities assumed in a business combination is at estimated fair value as of the acquisition date, with certain exceptions.
At acquisition, we use estimates that can be complex and require significant judgments to record the fair value of purchased intangible assets, which primarily consist of trademarks, as well as customer relationships and reacquired rights. The fair values and useful lives of these intangible assets are estimated based on our assessment as well as independent third party appraisals in some cases. The cost of each acquired business is allocated to the individual tangible and intangible assets acquired and liabilities assumed or incurred as a result of an acquisition based on their estimated fair values pursuant to the acquisition method of accounting. Additionally, at acquisition we must determine whether the intangible asset has an indefinite or finite life and account for it accordingly.
Goodwill is recognized as the amount by which the cost to acquire a business exceeds the fair value of identified tangible and intangible assets acquired, net of assumed liabilities. Thus, the amount of goodwill recognized in connection with a business combination depends on the fair values assigned to the individual assets acquired and liabilities assumed in a business combination. Goodwill is allocated to the respective reporting unit at the time of acquisition. As of February 3, 2024, substantially all goodwill included in our consolidated balance sheet is deductible for income tax purposes.
At acquisition, as well as any subsequent impairment tests, assumptions and estimates about various items with significant uncertainty are required to determine the fair value of intangible assets and goodwill. When determining the fair value of intangible assets, including trademarks, customer relationships and other items, significant assumptions may include our planned use of the asset as well as estimates of net sales, royalty income, operating income, growth rates, royalty rates for the trademarks, a risk-adjusted, market-based cost of capital for the discount rates, income tax rates, anticipated cash flows and probabilities of cash flows, among other factors. Our fair value assessment may also consider any comparable market transactions. The use of different assumptions related to these uncertain factors at acquisition could result in a material change to the amounts of intangible assets and goodwill initially recorded at acquisition, which could result in a material impact on our consolidated financial statements. Additionally, the definition of fair value of inventories acquired as part of a business combination generally will equal the expected sales price less certain costs associated with selling the inventory, which may exceed the actual cost of the acquired inventories, resulting in an inventory step-up to fair value at acquisition, which would be recognized in our consolidated statements of operations as the acquired inventory is sold.
Our estimates of the purchase price allocation of a business combination may be revised during a measurement period as necessary when, and if, information becomes available to revise the fair values of the assets acquired and the liabilities assumed. Actual fair values ultimately assigned to the acquired assets and liabilities when final information is available may materially differ from our preliminary estimates during the measurement period. The allocation period may not exceed one year from the date of the acquisition. Should information become available after the allocation period indicating that an adjustment to the purchase price allocation is appropriate, that adjustment will be included in our consolidated statements of operations. The results of operations of acquired businesses are included in our consolidated statements of operations from the respective dates of the acquisitions. Transaction costs related to business combinations are included in SG&A in our consolidated statements of operations as incurred.
Refer to Note 4 for information related to the Fiscal 2022 acquisition of Johnny Was and the Fiscal 2023 acquisitions, including disclosures about the allocation of the preliminary purchase price to the estimated fair values of the acquired assets and liabilities.
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OXFORD INDUSTRIES, INC.
NOTES TO CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS (Continued)
Revenue Recognition and Receivables
Our revenue consists of direct to consumer sales, including our retail store, e-commerce and food and beverage operations, and wholesale sales, as well as royalty income, which is included in royalties and other income in our consolidated statements of operations. Revenue is recognized at an amount that reflects the consideration expected to be received for those goods and services pursuant to a five-step approach: (1) identify the contracts with the customer; (2) identify the separate performance obligations in the contracts; (3) determine the transaction price; (4) allocate the transaction price to separate performance obligations; and (5) recognize revenue when, or as, each performance obligation is satisfied. The table below quantifies the amount of net sales by distribution channel (in thousands) for each period presented.
Fiscal Fiscal Fiscal
We recognize revenue when performance obligations under the terms of the contracts with our customers are satisfied, which generally occurs when we deliver our products to our direct to consumer and wholesale customers. Control of the product is generally transferred upon providing the product to consumers in our bricks and mortar retail stores and food and beverage locations, upon physical delivery of the products to consumers in our e-commerce operations and upon shipment from our distribution center to customers in our wholesale operations. Once control is transferred to the customer, we have completed our performance obligations related to the contract and have an unconditional right to consideration for the products sold as outlined in the contract. Our receivables resulting from contracts with customers in our direct to consumer operations are generally collected within a few days, upon settlement of the credit card transaction, while our receivables resulting from contracts with our customers in our wholesale operations are generally due within one quarter, in accordance with established credit terms. All of our performance obligations under the terms of our contracts with customers in our direct to consumer and wholesale operations have an expected original duration of one year or less. We only recognize revenue to the extent that it is probable that we will not have a significant reversal of revenue in a future period. Our revenue, including any freight income, is recognized net of applicable taxes in our consolidated statements of operations.
In our direct to consumer operations, consumers have certain rights to return product within a specified period and are eligible for certain point of sale discounts; thus retail store, e-commerce and food and beverage revenues are recorded net of estimated returns and discounts, as applicable. The sales return allowance is based on historical direct to consumer return rates and current trends and is recognized on a gross basis as a return liability for the amount of sales estimated to be returned and a return asset for the right to recover the product estimated to be returned by the customer. The value of inventory associated with a right to recover the goods returned in our direct to consumer operations is included in prepaid expenses and other current assets in our consolidated balance sheets. The changes in the return liability are recognized in net sales and the changes in the return asset are recognized in cost of goods sold in our consolidated statements of operations. An estimated sales return liability of $13 million and $12 million for expected direct to consumer returns is classified in accrued expenses and other liabilities in our consolidated balance sheet as of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, respectively.
In the ordinary course of our wholesale operations, we offer discounts, allowances and cooperative advertising support to some of our wholesale customers for certain products. Some of these arrangements are written agreements, while others may be implied by customary practices or expectations in the industry. As certain allowances, other deductions and returns are not finalized until the end of a season, program or other event which may not have occurred
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OXFORD INDUSTRIES, INC.
NOTES TO CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS (Continued)
yet, we estimate such discounts, allowances and returns on an ongoing basis to estimate the consideration from the customer that we expect to ultimately receive. Significant considerations in determining our estimates for discounts, allowances, operational chargebacks and returns for wholesale customers may include historical and current trends, agreements with customers, projected seasonal or program results, an evaluation of current economic conditions, specific program or product expectations and retailer performance. We record the discounts, returns, allowances and operational chargebacks as a reduction to net sales in our consolidated statements of operations and as a reduction to receivables, net in our consolidated balance sheets, with the estimated value of inventory expected to be returned in prepaid expenses and other current assets in our consolidated balance sheets. As of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, reserve balances recorded as a reduction to wholesale receivables related to these items were $3 million and $4 million, respectively.
We extend credit to certain wholesale customers based on an evaluation of the customer’s financial capacity and condition, usually without requiring collateral. In circumstances where we become aware of a specific wholesale customer’s inability to meet its financial obligations, a specific provision for credit losses is taken as a reduction to accounts receivable to reduce the net recognized receivable to the amount reasonably expected to be collected. Such amounts are ultimately written off at the time that the amounts are not considered collectible. For our wholesale customer receivable amounts not specifically provided for, we recognize estimated provisions for credit losses, using the current expected loss model based on our historical collection experience, the financial condition of our customers, an evaluation of current economic conditions, anticipated trends and the risk characteristics of the receivables. Provisions for credit loss expense, which is included in SG&A in our consolidated statements of operations, for Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021 were a credit of less than $1 million, a credit of less than $1 million and a credit of $1 million, respectively, while write-offs of credit losses for Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021 were less than $1 million, less than $1 million and less than $1 million, respectively. As of both February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, receivables, net in our consolidated balance sheet included a provision for credit losses related to trade receivables of $1 million.
In addition to trade receivables, tenant allowances due from landlord of $6 million and $2 million are included in receivables, net in our consolidated balance sheet, as of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, respectively. Substantially all other amounts recognized in receivables, net represent trade receivables related to contracts with customers, including receivables from wholesale customers, credit card receivables related to our direct to consumer operations, and receivables from licensing partners. As of both February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, prepaid expenses and other current assets included $4 million representing the estimated value of inventory for expected direct to consumer and wholesale sales returns in the aggregate. We did not have any significant contract assets related to contracts with customers, other than trade receivables and the value of inventory associated with expected sales returns, as of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023.
In addition to our estimated expected return amounts, contract liabilities related to contracts with our customers include gift cards and merchandise credits issued by us as well as unredeemed loyalty program award points. Gift cards and merchandise credits issued by us are redeemable on demand by the holder, do not have an expiration date and do not incur administrative fees. Historically, substantially all gift cards and merchandise credits are redeemed within one year of issuance. Gift cards and merchandise credits are recorded as a liability until our performance obligation is satisfied, which occurs when redeemed by the consumer, at which point revenue is recognized. However, we recognize estimated breakage income for certain gift cards and merchandise credits using the redemption recognition method, subject to applicable laws in certain states. Contract liabilities for gift cards purchased by consumers and merchandise credits received by customers but not yet redeemed, less any breakage income recognized to date, is included in accrued expenses and other liabilities in our consolidated balance sheets and totaled $20 million and $19 million as of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, respectively. Gift card breakage income, which is included in net sales in our consolidated statements of operations, was $1 million in each of Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021.
In Fiscal 2021, each of our brands in our Emerging Brands operating group initiated brand specific loyalty award programs. These programs allow consumers to earn loyalty points associated with the brand. Lilly Pulitzer initiated also initiated a program in Fiscal 2023. These programs are primarily spend-based loyalty programs, with varying terms and conditions for each respective brand’s program. The consumer earns points which, depending on the program, allows the
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OXFORD INDUSTRIES, INC.
NOTES TO CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS (Continued)
consumer to (1) achieve a specified status with the brand, which provides the consumer with benefits, such as early access to events, free shipping or other benefits, for a specified period, and/or (2) earn a monetary reward by accumulating loyalty points that can be redeemed in association with future purchases from the brand. As loyalty points are earned, we defer revenue, based on the estimated fair value of the loyalty points, with a corresponding liability in accrued expenses and other liabilities in our consolidated balance sheets. The loyalty points liability is generally recognized as revenue when the loyalty points are redeemed or expire. Deferred revenue associated with the loyalty programs totaled $3 million and $1 million as of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, respectively.
Royalties from the license of our owned brands are recognized over the time that licensees are provided access to utilize our trademarks (i.e. symbolic intellectual property) and benefit from such access through their sales of licensed products. Payments are generally due quarterly, and depending on time of receipt, may be recorded as a liability until recognized as revenue. Royalty income is based upon the contractually guaranteed minimum royalty obligations and adjusted as sales data, or estimates thereof, received from licensees reflects that the related royalties based on a percentage of the licensee’s sales exceed the contractually determined minimum royalty amount. Royalty income, which is included in royalties and other operating income in our consolidated statements of operations, were $19 million, $22 million and $18 million during Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021, respectively.
Cost of Goods Sold
We include in cost of goods sold (1) the cost paid to the suppliers for the acquired product, (2) sourcing, procurement and other costs incurred prior to or in association with the receipt of finished goods at our distribution facilities, and (3) freight from our distribution facilities to our own retail stores, e-commerce consumers and wholesale customers. The costs prior to receipt at our distribution facilities include inbound freight charges, duties and other import costs, brokers’ fees, consolidators’ fees, insurance, direct labor, and depreciation expense associated with our sourcing operations. We generally classify amounts billed to customers for freight in net sales and classify freight costs for shipments to customers in cost of goods sold in our consolidated statements of operations.
Our gross profit and gross margin may not be directly comparable to those of our competitors, as statement of operations classifications of certain expenses may vary by company.
SG&A
We include in SG&A costs incurred subsequent to the receipt of finished goods at our distribution facilities, such as the cost of inspection, stocking, warehousing, picking and packing, and costs associated with the operations of our e-commerce sites, retail stores, food and beverage locations and concessions, such as labor, lease commitments and other occupancy costs, direct to consumer location pre-opening costs (including rent, marketing, store set-up costs and training expenses), depreciation and other amounts. SG&A also includes product design costs, selling costs, royalty expense, provision for credit losses, advertising, promotion and marketing expenses, professional fees, supplies, travel, other general and administrative expenses, our corporate overhead costs and amortization of intangible assets.
Distribution network costs, including costs associated with preparing goods to ship to customers and our costs to operate our distribution facilities, are included as a component of SG&A. We consider distribution network costs to be the costs associated with operating our distribution centers, as well as the costs paid to third parties who perform those services for us. In Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021, distribution network costs included in SG&A totaled $40 million,$36 million and $28 million, respectively.
All costs associated with advertising, promotion and marketing of our products are expensed in SG&A during the period when the advertisement is first shown. Costs associated with cooperative advertising programs under which we agree to make general contributions to our wholesale customers’ advertising and promotional funds are generally recorded as a reduction to net sales. Advertising, promotion and marketing expenses, excluding employment costs for our advertising and marketing employees, for Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021 were $105 million, $82 million and
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NOTES TO CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS (Continued)
$60 million, respectively. Prepaid advertising, promotion and marketing expenses included in prepaid expenses and other current assets in our consolidated balance sheets as of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023 were $5 million and $6 million, respectively.
Royalty expense related to our license of third party brands, which are generally based on the greater of a percentage of our actual net sales for the licensed product or a contractually determined minimum royalty amount, are recorded based upon any guaranteed minimum levels and adjusted based on our net sales of the licensed products, as appropriate. Royalty expenses recognized as SG&A in Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021 were $6 million, $4 million and $6 million, respectively. As of February 3, 2024, we do not have any royalty agreements with material guaranteed minimum royalty amounts for future periods as future royalty amounts are generally dependent on our future sales of the specified licensed products.
Cash and Cash Equivalents
We consider cash equivalents to be investments with original maturities of three months or less for purposes of our consolidated statements of cash flows. As of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, we did not have any cash and cash equivalents in money market fund investments.
Supplemental Cash Flow Information
During Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021, cash paid for income taxes was $39 million, $56 million and $34 million, respectively. During Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021, cash paid for interest, net of interest income was $6 million, $3 million and $1 million, respectively. Non-cash investing activities included capital expenditures incurred but not yet paid at period end, which were included in accounts payable in our consolidated balances sheets, of $2 million, $3 million and $3 million as of Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021, respectively. Additionally, during Fiscal 2023, Fiscal 2022 and Fiscal 2021, we recorded a non-cash net increase in operating lease assets and corresponding operating lease liability amounts of $83 million, $47 million and $18 million, respectively, related to the net impact of new, modified and terminated operating lease amounts, excluding any operating lease amounts recognized in the opening balance sheet of an acquired business.
Inventories, net
Substantially all of our inventories are finished goods inventories of apparel, accessories and other related products. Inventories are valued at the lower of cost or market.
For operating group reporting, inventory is carried at the lower of FIFO cost or market. We evaluate the composition of our inventories for identification of distressed inventory at least quarterly. In performing this evaluation, we consider slow-turning products, an indication of lack of consumer acceptance of particular products, prior-seasons’ fashion products, broken assortments, discontinued products and current levels of replenishment program products as compared to expected sales. We estimate the amount of goods that we will not be able to sell in the normal course of business and write down the value of these goods as necessary based on various assumptions about the amounts we ultimately expect to realize for the inventories. Also, we provide an allowance for shrinkage, as appropriate, for the period between the last physical inventory count and each balance sheet date.
For consolidated financial reporting, as of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, $146 million, or 92%, and $204 million, or 93%, respectively, of our inventories were valued at the lower of LIFO cost or market after deducting our LIFO accounting reserve. The remaining $13 million and $16 million of our inventories were valued at the lower of FIFO cost or market as of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, respectively. Generally, for consolidated financial reporting, inventories of our domestic operations are valued at the lower of LIFO cost or market, and our inventories of our international operations are valued at the lower of FIFO cost or market. Our LIFO reserves are based on the estimated Producer Price Index as published by the United States Department of Labor. We write down inventories valued at the
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NOTES TO CONSOLIDATED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS (Continued)
lower of LIFO cost or market when LIFO cost exceeds market value. We deem LIFO accounting adjustments to not only include changes in the LIFO reserve, but also includes changes in markdown reserves. As our LIFO inventory pool does not correspond to our operating group definitions, LIFO inventory accounting adjustments are not allocated to our operating groups. Thus, the impact of accounting for inventories on the LIFO method is reflected in Corporate and Other for operating group reporting purposes included in Note 2.
There was a $2 million LIFO inventory layer liquidation in Fiscal 2023. There were no material LIFO inventory layer liquidations in Fiscal 2022 or Fiscal 2021. As of February 3, 2024 and January 28, 2023, the LIFO reserve included in our consolidated balance sheet was $83 million and $76 million, respectively.
Property and Equipment, net