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UNITED STATES SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION
Washington, D.C. 20549
FORM 10-K
(Mark One)
For the fiscal year ended January 29, 2022
OR
For the transition period from ____________ to ______________
Commission file number 1-2191
CALERES, INC.
(Exact name of registrant as specified in its charter)
St. Louis, Missouri (Zip Code)
(Address of principal executive offices)
(314) 854-4000
(Registrant’s telephone number, including area code)
Securities Registered Pursuant to Section 12(b) of the Act:
Title of each class Trading Symbol(s) Name of each exchange on which registered
Common Stock — par value of $0.01 per share CAL New York Stock Exchange
Securities Registered Pursuant to Section 12(g) of the Act: None
Indicate by check mark if the registrant is a well-known seasoned issuer, as defined in Rule 405 of the Securities Act. Yes☑ No ☐
Indicate by check mark if the registrant is not required to file reports pursuant to Section 13 or Section 15(d) of the Act. Yes ☐No☑
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant: (1) has filed all reports required to be filed by Section 13 or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 during the preceding 12 months (or for such shorter period that the registrant was required to file such reports), and (2) has been subject to such filing requirements for the past 90 days. Yes☑ No ☐
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant has submitted electronically every Interactive Data File required to be submitted pursuant to Rule 405 of Regulation S-T (§ 232.405 of this chapter) during the preceding 12 months (or for such shorter period that the registrant was required to submit such files). Yes☑ No ☐
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant is a large accelerated filer, an accelerated filer, a non-accelerated filer, a smaller reporting company, or emerging growth company. See the definitions of “large accelerated filer,” “accelerated filer,” “smaller reporting company,” and "emerging growth company" in Rule 12b-2 of the Exchange Act:
If an emerging growth company, indicate by check mark if the registrant has elected not to use the extended transition period for complying with any new or revised financial accounting standards provided pursuant to Section 13(a) of the Exchange Act. ☐
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant has filed a report on and attestation to its management’s assessment of the effectiveness of its internal control over financial reporting under Section 404(b) of the Sarbanes-Oxley Act (15 U.S.C. 7262(b)) by the registered public accounting firm that prepared or issued its audit report. ☑
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant is a shell company (as defined in Rule 12b-2 of the Act). Yes ☐ No ☑
The aggregate market value of the stock held by non-affiliates of the registrant as of July 31, 2021, the last business day of the registrant’s most recently completed second fiscal quarter, was approximately $890.4 million.
As of February 25, 2022, 37,633,895 common shares were outstanding.
Documents Incorporated by Reference
Portions of the Proxy Statement for the 2022 Annual Meeting of Shareholders are incorporated by reference into Part III.
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INTRODUCTION
This Annual Report on Form 10-K is a document that U.S. public companies file with the Securities and Exchange Commission ("SEC") on an annual basis. Part II of the Form 10-K contains the business information and financial statements that many companies include in the financial sections of their annual reports. The other sections of this Form 10-K include further information about our business that we believe will be of interest to investors. We hope investors will find it useful to have all of this information in a single document.
The SEC allows us to report information in the Form 10-K by “incorporating by reference” from another part of the Form 10-K or from the proxy statement. You will see that information is “incorporated by reference” in various parts of our Form 10-K. The proxy statement will be available on our website after it is filed with the SEC in April 2022.
Unless the context otherwise requires, “we,” “us,” “our,” “the Company” or “Caleres” refers to Caleres, Inc. and its subsidiaries.
Information in this Form 10-K is current as of March 28, 2022, unless otherwise specified.
CAUTION REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING STATEMENTS
In this report, and from time to time throughout the year, we share our expectations for the Company’s future performance. These forward-looking statements include statements about our business plans; the potential development, regulatory approval and public acceptance of our products; our expected financial performance, including sales performance and the anticipated effect of our strategic actions; the anticipated benefits of acquisitions; the outcome of contingencies, such as litigation; domestic or international economic, political and market conditions; and other factors that could affect our future results of operations or financial position, including, without limitation, statements under the captions “Business,” “Legal Proceedings” and “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.” Any statements we make that are not matters of current disclosures or historical fact should be considered forward-looking. Such statements often include words such as “believe,” “expect,” “anticipate,” “intend,” “plan,” “estimate,” “will” and similar expressions. By their nature, these types of statements are uncertain and are not guarantees of our future performance.
Our forward-looking statements represent our estimates and expectations at the time that we make them. However, circumstances change constantly, often unpredictably, and investors should not place undue reliance on these statements. Many events beyond our control will determine whether our expectations will be realized. We disclaim any current intention or obligation to revise or update any forward-looking statements, or the factors that may affect their realization, whether in light of new information, future events or otherwise, and investors should not rely on us to do so. In the interests of our investors, and in accordance with the “safe harbor” provisions of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995, Part I. Item 1A. Risk Factors explains some of the important reasons that actual results may be materially different from those that we anticipate.
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INDEX
PART I Page
Item 1 Business 4
Item 1A Risk Factors 13
Item 1B Unresolved Staff Comments 21
Item 2 Properties 21
Item 3 Legal Proceedings 21
Item 4 Mine Safety Disclosures 22
Item 6 Reserved 23
Item 7A Quantitative and Qualitative Disclosures About Market Risk 37
Item 8 Financial Statements and Supplementary Data 38
Management’s Report on Internal Control Over Financial Reporting 38
Report of Independent Registered Public Accounting Firm (PCAOB ID: 42) 39
Report of Independent Registered Public Accounting Firm (PCAOB ID: 42) 40
Consolidated Balance Sheets 42
Consolidated Statements of Earnings (Loss) 43
Consolidated Statements of Comprehensive Income (Loss) 44
Consolidated Statements of Cash Flows 45
Consolidated Statements of Shareholders’ Equity 46
Notes to Consolidated Financial Statements 47
Schedule II – Valuation and Qualifying Accounts 88
Item 9A Controls and Procedures 89
Evaluation of Disclosure Controls and Procedures 89
Internal Control Over Financial Reporting 89
Item 9B Other Information 89
Item 9C Disclosure Regarding Foreign Jurisdictions that Prevent Inspections 89
PART III 89
Item 10 Directors, Executive Officers and Corporate Governance 89
Item 11 Executive Compensation 90
Item 14 Principal Accountant Fees and Services 91
Item 15 Exhibits and Financial Statement Schedules 92
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PART I
ITEM 1BUSINESS
Caleres, Inc. (the "Company"), originally founded as Brown Shoe Company in 1878 and incorporated in 1913, is a global footwear company. Current activities include the operation of retail shoe stores and e-commerce websites, as well as the design, development, sourcing, manufacturing, marketing and wholesale distribution of footwear for women, men and children. Our business is seasonal in nature due to consumer spending patterns, with higher back-to-school and holiday season sales. While the third fiscal quarter has historically accounted for a substantial portion of our earnings for the year, we are beginning to experience more equal distribution among the quarters.
Our net sales are comprised of four major categories: women’s footwear, men’s footwear, children’s footwear and clothing and accessories. The percentage of net sales attributable to each category is as follows:
Women's footwear 59 % 61 % 63 %
Children's footwear 11 % 10 % 9 %
Clothing and accessories 6 % 6 % 6 %
Human Capital Management
As of January 29, 2022, we had approximately 9,200 employees, including 5,200 full-time and 4,000 part-time. In the United States, there were no employees subject to union contracts. In Canada, we employ approximately 17 warehouse employees under a union contract, which will expire in October 2022. The Company’s success depends on our ability to attract, develop, motivate and retain qualified management, administrative, product design and development and sales and marketing personnel to support existing operations and future growth. Our values – Passion, Accountability, Curiosity, Creativity and Caring, inform how we work, how we treat one another and how we live our mission.
Compensation Programs and Employee Benefits
We believe that pay, benefits and incentives make up the total rewards package and provide employees and their families with financial protection and security for the future. Our compensation programs are designed to encourage and reward our executives and associates for superior performance and drive long-term shareholder value. We offer a comprehensive benefits package to our employees that provides, among other benefits, competitive salaries and wages; comprehensive health insurance coverage to eligible employees; retirement plans; education assistance; paid time off; parental bonding leave; adoption benefits; and charitable giving opportunities through the Caleres Cares Charitable Trust, including volunteer opportunities and our matching gift program.
Health and Safety
Our associates make health and safety a daily priority at our stores, distribution centers, offices and factories. Newly hired associates are required to attend a health and safety training as part of the onboarding process and they receive a variety of relevant training and information throughout the year. Our guidelines cover many common elements such as physical safety and security, workplace violence, emergency procedures, incident reporting protocols, first aid and other general health and safety topics. All of our retail associates receive training in accordance with our Occupational Health and Safety Program, which provides for both their safety and that of our customers. Our corporate offices support the well-being of our associates with on-site amenities such as a fitness center and a registered dietician that is available for consultations. During 2021, we also offered our corporate associates paid time off to get the COVID-19 vaccine.
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Diversity, Equity and Inclusion
Caleres was founded on the insight that people are unique, and we are proud of our inclusive and collaborative environment where differences are celebrated. We believe that Caleres should be as diverse as the people and communities we serve. We are committed to recruiting talented individuals from all backgrounds, ethnicities, genders, lifestyles and belief systems and developing diverse candidate slates for every open position with leadership accountability. The Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Council that was established in 2020 is focused on elevating awareness of diversity, equity and inclusion through its educational communications and trainings provided to our associates throughout the year. In addition, our commitment to diversity, equity and inclusion is reflected in our Board of Directors. As of January 29, 2022, we had 10 directors, of which 60% are female and 20% are racially and ethnically diverse.
Environmental, Social and Governance (“ESG”) Initiatives
Our ESG initiatives are an important component of our enterprise risk management program. Our long-standing pledge to quality craftmanship includes creating sustainable and lasting value for all of our stakeholders. Our ESG Steering Committee is responsible for developing programs, goals and metrics to support our ESG initiatives. In 2019, we engaged a third-party consultant to help us assess factors that are most significant to Caleres and its stakeholders. The following categories were identified as most material and provide the framework for our ESG initiatives:
●Brand Portfolio ●Sustainable Product Offerings
●Packaging ●Supply Chain Labor Standards
●Materials Recovery/Waste Reduction ●Associates
●Facility Energy and Emissions ●Community
Many of our ESG goals focus on high impact areas of opportunity, such as the materials that are used in our products, their byproducts and supply chain labor standards. We are striving to use environmentally preferred materials to produce all of our products and packaging, and we will ensure all of our strategic factories around the world comply with leading global work standards. During the first quarter of 2021, we published our inaugural corporate ESG report, which was nationally recognized on Newsweek’s Most Responsible Companies list and ranked in the top 10 for the consumer goods category. The report detailed our ESG strategy and provided our goals for sustainable products and practices. This report may be accessed at www.caleres.com/about/esg. The information contained on our website is not incorporated by reference into this Form 10-K and should not be considered part of this report. We expect to publish another ESG report in April 2022, detailing our progress toward our identified target goals, which we seek to achieve by 2025.
Competition
With many companies operating traditional brick and mortar retail shoe stores and departments and e-commerce businesses, we compete in a highly fragmented market. In addition, the continuing consumer shift to online and mobile shopping has increased price competition and requires retailers to lower shipping costs charged to customers, improve shipping speeds and optimize mobile platforms. Our competitors include local, regional and national shoe store chains, department stores, discount stores, mass merchandisers, numerous independent retail operators of various sizes and e-commerce businesses. Quality of products and services, store location, trend-right merchandise selection and availability of brands, pricing, marketing, advertising and consumer service are all factors that impact retail competition.
In addition, our wholesale customers sell shoes purchased from competing footwear suppliers. Those competing footwear suppliers own and license brands, many of which are well-known and marketed aggressively. Many retailers, who are our wholesale customers, source directly from factories or through agents. The wholesale footwear business has low barriers to entry, which further intensifies competition.
FAMOUS FOOTWEAR
Our Famous Footwear segment is one of America’s leading family-branded footwear retailers, with $1.7 billion in net sales for 2021. Famous Footwear employs an omni-channel approach to reach consumers wherever they want to shop, including our growing e-commerce channel through famousfootwear.com and famousfootwear.ca, as well as nearly 900 Famous Footwear retail locations. Our core consumers are those who seek leading national brands of athletic, casual and fashionable footwear at a value for themselves and their families.
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Famous Footwear features a wide selection of brand name athletic, casual and dress shoes for the entire family. Brands carried include, among others, Nike, Skechers, adidas, Vans, Crocs, Converse, Puma, Birkenstock, New Balance, Under Armour, Asics, Timberland, Bearpaw, Sperry and Dr. Martens, as well as company-owned and licensed brands including, among others, Blowfish Malibu, LifeStride, Dr. Scholl’s Shoes, Naturalizer, Rykä, Zodiac, Circus by Sam Edelman and Franco Sarto. Our company-owned and licensed products are sold to our Famous Footwear segment by our Brand Portfolio segment at a profit and represent approximately 5% of the Famous Footwear segment’s net sales. We work closely with our vendors to provide consumers with fresh product and, in some cases, product exclusively designed for and available only at Famous Footwear. Famous Footwear’s retail price points typically range from $20 for shoes up to $260 for boots. We believe we have strong relationships with our significant branded footwear suppliers, but the loss of any one or more suppliers could have a material impact on our Famous Footwear segment and the Company.
Famousfootwear.com and famousfootwear.ca offer an expansive product assortment, beyond what is sold in our retail stores. Accessible via desktop, tablet and mobile devices, these e-commerce websites help consumers explore product assortments, including items available in local stores, and make purchases. Many of our consumers buy online and pick up product in their local store through Famously Fast Pickup or curbside. Orders are typically ready within an hour through this convenient service. Our retail store locations also fulfill approximately half of all e-commerce orders not picked up in the store. Leveraging our brick and mortar store inventory reduces delivery times, driving an enhanced consumer experience. We continue to enhance our digital technology and e-commerce platform, as well as add new features to the Famous Footwear Rewards mobile application to deliver a superior experience for our customers who visit Famous Footwear on a mobile device.
Famous Footwear also has an extensive customer loyalty program, Famously You Rewards (“Rewards”), which informs and rewards members with free shipping and bonus points for online purchases, product previews, earned incentives based upon purchase continuity and other periodic promotional offers. Our e-commerce websites allow members of Rewards to view their points status and purchase history, manage profile settings and engage further with the brand. Famous Footwear’s mobile app also serves as a hub for Rewards members to shop, find local stores, redeem Rewards certificates and learn about the newest products, latest trends and hottest deals.
Our Famous Footwear stores are located in strip shopping centers as well as outlet and regional malls in 49 states, Canada and Guam. The breakdown by venue at the end of each of the last three fiscal years is as follows:
We expect to open approximately 20 new stores and close approximately 30 stores in 2022, as we continue to align our real estate and e-commerce strategies. New stores typically experience an initial start-up period characterized by lower sales and operating earnings than what is generally achieved by more mature stores. While the duration of this start-up period may vary by type of store, economic environment and geographic location, new stores typically reach a normal level of profitability within approximately four years.
Famous Footwear relies on merchandise allocation systems and processes that use allocation criteria, consumer segmentation and inventory data in an effort to ensure stores are adequately stocked with product and to differentiate the needs of each store based on location, consumer segmentation and other factors. Famous Footwear’s distribution systems allow for merchandise to be delivered to each store weekly, or on a more frequent basis, as needed. Famous Footwear also uses regional third-party pooled distribution sites across the country.
Famous Footwear’s marketing programs include e-commerce advertising, digital marketing and social media, direct mail and in-store advertisements, all of which are designed to further develop and reinforce the Famous Footwear concept and strengthen our connection with consumers. We believe the success of our marketing campaigns is attributable to highlighting key categories and tailoring the timing of such messaging to adapt to seasonal shopping patterns. In 2021,
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we spent approximately $59.5 million to advertise and market Famous Footwear to our target consumers, a portion of which was recovered from suppliers.
BRAND PORTFOLIO
Our Brand Portfolio segment offers retailers and consumers a portfolio of leading brands by designing, developing, sourcing, manufacturing, marketing and distributing branded footwear for women, men and children at a variety of price points. Certain of our branded footwear products are sold under brand names that are owned by the Company and others are developed pursuant to licensing agreements. Our Brand Portfolio segment sells footwear on a wholesale basis to retailers. The segment also sells footwear on a direct-to-consumer basis through our branded retail stores and e-commerce businesses.
Portfolio of Brands
The following is a listing of our principal brands and licensed products:
Sam Edelman: Since 2004, Sam Edelman has been synonymous with aspirational luxury and irreverent, trend-on style. Inspired by timeless American elegance, designer Sam Edelman’s innate understanding of the customer translates conceptually into a modern lifestyle informed by rich heritage, creativity and innovation. Beyond its iconic footwear, Sam Edelman offers an ever-expanding range of product categories to fit the customer’s lifestyle including dresses, fragrance, outerwear, denim, handbags, small leather-goods, sunglasses and children’s shoes. The full range of Sam Edelman product is sold through Sam Edelman retail stores and online at samedelman.com, in addition to department stores, national chains and independent retailers around the world at suggested retail price points from $100 to $300.
Vionic: In October 2018, we acquired Vionic to expand our access to the growing contemporary comfort footwear category. Vionic brings together style and science, combining innovative biomechanics with the most coveted trends. Bridging the fashion gap with supportive and stylish offerings, Vionic designs its innovative Three-Zone Comfort footbed technology into every shoe it makes, delivering podiatrist-developed stability, cushioning and the ultimate in arch support. As pioneers in foot health with a global team of wellness experts behind the brand, Vionic brings a fresh perspective to “feel great, look great” footwear that champions more vibrant lifestyles for women and men. Featuring a wide range of silhouettes, premium materials and thoughtful design for women and men, Vionic offers the style you want with the comfort you crave across a vast selection of fashion sneakers, casual and dress options, all-weather boots, sandals and slippers. The brand is sold online, through independent retailers, television, department stores, national chains and specialty retailers for suggested retail price points from $40 for shoes to $250 for boots.
Naturalizer: Since 1927, Naturalizer has crafted beautiful and modern styles that look and feel exceptional, inside and out. Our legendary emphasis on fit and elegant simplicity launched a brand that became known as “the shoe with the beautiful fit.” Our Naturalizer brand is sold primarily at national chains, online retailers, online at naturalizer.com and naturalizer.ca, department stores, independent retailers and its two flagship retail stores. Naturalizer footwear is also distributed through wholesale partners in 37 countries around the world and approximately 47 retail stores. Suggested retail price points range from $69 for shoes to $240 for boots.
Blowfish Malibu: In July 2018, we acquired a controlling interest in Blowfish Malibu and in November 2021, we acquired the remaining interest. Blowfish Malibu, which was founded in 2005, designs and sells women’s and children’s footwear that captures the fresh youthful spirit and casual living that is distinctively Southern California. The brand is sold at national chains, our Famous Footwear stores and independent retailers. Suggested retail price points range from $35 for shoes to $90 for boots.
Dr. Scholl’s Shoes: Inspired by its founder Dr. William Scholl, Dr. Scholl’s Shoes remains forever passionate about creating iconic, effortless footwear for a healthy life. This footwear reaches consumers at a wide range of distribution channels including national chains, department stores, mass merchandisers, online, including drschollshoes.com, our Famous Footwear retail stores and independent retailers. Suggested price points range from $50 for shoes to $190 for boots. We have a long-term license agreement to sell Dr. Scholl’s Shoes, which is renewable through December 2026 for sales in the United States, Canada and Latin America.
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Allen Edmonds: In 2016, we acquired Allen Edmonds to increase our penetration in men’s footwear. Allen Edmonds, founded in 1922, is a U.S.-based direct-to-consumer and wholesaler of premium men’s footwear, apparel, leather goods and accessories with a strong manufacturing heritage. Allen Edmonds products are available at our 61 Allen Edmonds stores in the United States, online at allenedmonds.com and at select retailers worldwide at suggested retail price points from $245 for shoes to $495 for boots.
LifeStride: For more than 70 years, LifeStride has created quality footwear for women who value both style and all-day comfort. The brand is sold in national chains, our Famous Footwear retail stores, online, including lifestride.com and department stores at suggested retail price points ranging from $60 for shoes to $130 for boots.
Franco Sarto: The Franco Sarto brand embodies timeless, wearable style inspired by the craft and design of Italian footwear. The brand is sold in major national chains, online, including francosarto.com, department stores, specialty retailers, our Famous Footwear retail stores and independent retailers at suggested retail price points from $89 for shoes to $280 for boots.
Rykä: For over 30 years, Rykä has been innovating athletic footwear exclusively for women. The brand is distributed through national chains, online retailers, including ryka.com, independent retailers, department stores, specialty retailers and our Famous Footwear retail stores at suggested retail price points from $80 to $145.
Vince: The Vince women’s shoe collection launched in 2012 and was expanded in 2014 to include the Vince men’s footwear collection. The brand is primarily sold in premier department stores, online, national chains and specialty retailers at suggested price points from $195 for shoes to $695 for boots. We have a license agreement with Vince, LLC to sell Vince footwear through January 2025.
Bzees: Bzees is a comfort brand of machine washable women’s footwear designed to make you feel weightless, energized and free. The brand is distributed through national chains, department stores, online retailers including bzees.com, independent retailers, specialty retailers and our Famous Footwear retail stores at suggested retail price points from $80 for shoes to $130 for boots.
Zodiac: The Zodiac brand was launched in the late 1970s and acquired by us in 2005. In July 2019, we initiated a brand refresh by blending the past with the present to provide authentic, quality footwear that is supremely relevant for today’s modern and expressive consumer lifestyles. The brand relaunched in 2020 and Zodiac is now available at major national chains, online retailers, including zodiacshoes.com, and our Famous Footwear retail stores at suggested retail price points ranging from $69 for sandals to $149 for boots.
Veronica Beard: In 2020, we began an exclusive partnership with the American ready-to-wear brand, Veronica Beard, to produce the women’s footwear collection. The Veronica Beard collection includes styles that strike the balance between cool and classic, taking the consumer from day to night and work to weekend. The brand is distributed through domestic wholesale partners carrying Veronica Beard ready-to-wear and independent footwear retailers at suggested retail price points ranging from $295 for shoes to $450 for boots. We have a license agreement to produce footwear through December 2024.
Wholesale
Within our Brand Portfolio segment, our brands are distributed on a wholesale basis to approximately 5,100 retailers, including online retailers, national chains, department stores, mass merchandisers and independent retailers throughout the United States and Canada, as well as approximately 72 other countries (including sales to our retail operations). Our most significant wholesale customers include Famous Footwear and many of the nation’s largest retailers, including online retailers such as Amazon.com, Nordstrom.com, Macys.com and Zappos.com; national chains such as DSW, TJX Corporation (including TJ Maxx and Marshalls), Nordstrom Rack, Ross Stores and Kohl’s; department stores such as Nordstrom, Macy’s and Dillard’s; mass merchandisers such as Walmart; and independent retailers such as Qurate Retail Group, which operates QVC, Home Shopping Network and Zulily. Many of these wholesale customers also sell our products through their own websites, in addition to their retail store network. In these arrangements, orders are typically fulfilled on a drop ship basis from our logistics network. We also sell product to a variety of international retail customers
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and distributors. The loss of any one or more of our significant customers or brands could have a material impact on our Brand Portfolio segment and the Company.
Our Brand Portfolio segment sold approximately 38 million pairs of shoes on a wholesale basis during 2021. We sell footwear to wholesale customers on both a landed and a first-cost basis. Landed sales are those in which we obtain title to the footwear from our overseas suppliers and maintain title until the footwear clears United States customs and is shipped to our wholesale customers. Landed sales generally carry a higher profit rate than first-cost sales as a result of the brand equity associated with the product along with the additional customs, warehousing and logistics services provided to customers and the risks associated with inventory ownership. To allow for the prompt shipment of reorders and to satisfy our growing e-commerce demand, we carry inventories of certain styles. First-cost sales are those in which we obtain title to footwear from our overseas suppliers and typically relinquish title to customers at a designated overseas port. Many of these customers then import this product into the United States.
Products sold under license agreements accounted for approximately 13% of the sales of the Brand Portfolio segment in 2021, 15% of the segment’s sales in 2020 and 16% of the segment’s sales in 2019. Caleres also receives license revenue from third parties related to certain owned brands, for use in connection with other brand-enhancing non-footwear product categories.
Direct-to-Consumer
Our Brand Portfolio segment includes the operation of several e-commerce websites, including naturalizer.com, naturalizer.ca, vionicshoes.com, samedelman.com, allenedmonds.com, drschollsshoes.com, lifestride.com, francosarto.com, ryka.com, bzees.com and zodiacshoes.com, which offer substantially the same product selection to consumers as we sell to our wholesale customers. Vince.com, blowfishshoes.com, and veronicabeard.com complement our distribution of those brands. References to our website addresses do not constitute incorporation by reference of the information contained on the websites and the information contained on the websites is not part of this report.
We also operate retail stores for certain brands, including Allen Edmonds, Sam Edelman and Naturalizer. The number of our Brand Portfolio retail stores at the end of the last three fiscal years was as follows:
At the end of 2021, we operated 61 Allen Edmonds stores in the United States, each averaging approximately 1,500 square feet. We expect to close approximately five Allen Edmonds stores in 2022, as we continue to align our real estate and e-commerce strategies. We operated seven Sam Edelman stores in the United States and 16 in China at the end of 2021, each averaging approximately 2,300 square feet. After closing the majority of our Naturalizer retail stores at the beginning of 2021, we ended the year with two flagship Naturalizer stores in the United States. We anticipate expanding our Sam Edelman and Naturalizer presence in China in 2022 with the opening of approximately 14 Sam Edelman stores and two Naturalizer stores.
Marketing
We continue to build on the recognition of our portfolio of brands to create differentiation and consumer loyalty. Our marketing teams are responsible for the development and implementation of innovative marketing programs that serve the consumer facing needs of our portfolio of brands as well as that of our retail partners. In 2021, we spent approximately $50.2 million in advertising and marketing support for our Brand Portfolio segment, including digital marketing and social media, consumer media advertising, print, production, product placement, trade shows and in-store displays. The marketing teams are also responsible for driving the development of branding and content for our brand websites. We continually focus on enhancing the effectiveness of these marketing efforts through consumer insights, market research, product development and marketing communications that collectively address the ever-changing lives and needs of our consumers. Our marketing teams are instrumental in continuing to drive growth in e-commerce sales, producing relevant and purpose-driven brand positioning and creating meaningful connections with consumers that have increased awareness
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and loyalty across our portfolio. We continue to leverage consumer insights and data to inform marketing initiatives to capture a greater share of our target consumers’ spend as well as reach new audiences with a high propensity to purchase our products.
Product Development, Sourcing and Manufacturing Operations
We develop and source footwear for our Brand Portfolio segment. We have sourcing and product development offices in Clayton, Missouri; Dongguan, China; Putian, China; San Rafael and Culver City, California; New York, New York; Port Washington, Wisconsin; Florence, Italy; Macau; Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam and Hong Kong. In addition, we have manufacturing facilities in Port Washington, Wisconsin and Santiago, Dominican Republic that manufacture our Allen Edmonds footwear.
Product Development Operations
We maintain design and product development teams for our brands in Clayton, Missouri; Dongguan, China; Putian, China; San Rafael, California; New York, New York; Port Washington, Wisconsin and Culver City, California, as well as other select fashion locations, including Florence, Italy. These teams, which include independent designers, are responsible for the creation and development of new product styles. Our designers monitor trends in fashion footwear and apparel and work closely with retailers to identify consumer footwear preferences. Our design teams create collections of footwear, and our sourcing and product development offices convert those designs into new footwear styles. We operate a sample-making facility in Dongguan, China that allows us to have greater control over our product development in terms of accuracy, execution and speed-to-market. Our long-range plans include further expansion into new markets outside of China, particularly those in Vietnam, growing our use of 3D design technology in developing new product, and continuing to drive excellence in product value and execution in a rapidly changing manufacturing landscape. Our distribution center campus in Chino, California, which opened in 2018, provides additional shipping flexibility, operational efficiencies and an expansion of our logistics infrastructure capacity.
Sourcing Operations
In 2021, the sourcing operations sourced approximately 40 million pairs of shoes through a global network of third-party independent footwear manufacturers. The majority of our footwear sourced is provided by approximately 66 manufacturers operating approximately 120 manufacturing facilities. In certain countries, we use agents to facilitate and manage the development, production and shipment of product. We attribute our ability to achieve consistent quality, competitive prices and on-time delivery to the breadth of these established relationships, as well as steps we have taken to digitize many aspects of our end-to-end supply chain processes to enable mutually beneficial workload efficiency, visibility and agility. While we generally do not have significant contractual commitments with our suppliers, we do enter into sourcing agreements with certain independent sourcing agents. Prior to production, we monitor the quality of all of our footwear components and also inspect the prototypes of each footwear style.
The following table provides an overview of our sourcing by country in 2021:
Millions of
Country Pairs
Vietnam 6.9
India 0.9
Manufacturing
While we source the majority of our footwear from independent footwear manufacturers as discussed above, we also maintain and operate manufacturing facilities in Port Washington, Wisconsin and Santiago, Dominican Republic. These facilities manufacture footwear and certain accessories for our Allen Edmonds brand. We believe operating our own manufacturing facilities in North America provides us with greater control over the quality and craftsmanship that are essential to the iconic Allen Edmonds brand. In addition, our Port Washington facility serves our recrafting operations, which allows the Allen Edmonds consumer to extend the life of their footwear, restoring their shoes to nearly their original state.
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Backlog
At January 29, 2022, our Brand Portfolio segment had a backlog of unfilled wholesale orders of approximately $452.4 million, compared to $218.2 million on January 30, 2021. Most orders are for delivery within the next 90 to 120 days. Orders are subject to cancellation; however, with the exception of the cancellations we experienced in 2020 associated with the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on our wholesale partners, we have not experienced significant cancellations of orders. The increase in our backlog order levels reflects the delayed receipt of inventory due to global supply chain disruptions and higher demand. Depending on the timing of receipt of this inventory, certain customers may request price concessions or choose to cancel their orders.
The backlog at any particular time is affected by a number of factors, including supply chain disruptions as mentioned previously, seasonality and capacity shifts at international manufacturers. We are actively working to diversify and leverage our sourcing model to help offset the impact of the supply chain challenges, but expect the disruptions to continue into 2022. Accordingly, a comparison of backlog from period to period may not be indicative of eventual actual shipments or the growth rate of sales from one period to the next.
AVAILABLE INFORMATION
Our Internet address is www.caleres.com. Our Internet address is included in this annual report on Form 10-K as an inactive textual reference only. The information contained on our website is not incorporated by reference into this annual report on Form 10-K and should not be considered part of this report. We file annual, quarterly and current reports, proxy statements and other information with the SEC. We make available free of charge our annual report on Form 10-K, quarterly reports on Form 10-Q, current reports on Form 8-K and amendments to those reports filed or furnished, as required by Section 13(a) or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, through our Internet website as soon as reasonably practicable after we electronically file such material with or furnish it to the SEC. You may access these SEC filings via the hyperlink to a third-party SEC filings website that we provide on our website.
INFORMATION ABOUT OUR EXECUTIVE OFFICERS
The following is a list of the names and ages of the executive officers of the Company and of the offices held by each person. There is no family relationship between any of the named persons. The terms of the following executive officers will expire in May 2022 or upon their respective successors being chosen and qualified.
Name Age Current Position
John W. Schmidt 61 President
Thomas C. Burke 54 Vice President, General Counsel and Secretary
Michael R. Edwards 51 Division President – Famous Footwear
Daniel R. Friedman 61 Chief Sourcing Officer
Kenneth H. Hannah 53 Senior Vice President, Chief Financial Officer
Todd E. Hasty 49 Senior Vice President, Chief Accounting Officer
Willis D. Hill 50 Senior Vice President, Chief Information Officer
Douglas W. Koch 70 Senior Vice President, Strategic Projects
Jennifer S. Olsen 52 Chief Marketing Officer
Mark A. Schmitt 58 Senior Vice President, Chief Logistics Officer
The period of service of each officer in the positions listed and other business experience are set forth below.
Diane M. Sullivan, Chief Executive Officer and Chairman of the Board of Directors since February 2014. President and Chief Executive Officer from May 2011 to November 2020. President and Chief Operating Officer from March 2006 to May 2011. President from January 2004 to March 2006.
John W. Schmidt, President since December 2020. Division President – Brand Portfolio from October 2015 to December 2020. Division President – Contemporary Fashion Brands from January 2011 to September 2015. Senior Vice President, Better and Image Brands from January 2010 to January 2011. Senior Vice President and General Manager, Better and Image Brands from March 2008 until January 2010. Various positions, including Vice President, President, Group President of Wholesale Footwear for Nine West Group from September 1998 to February 2008.
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Thomas C. Burke, Vice President, General Counsel and Secretary since August 2016. Vice President, Legal from December 2015 to August 2016. Deputy General Counsel from March 2012 to December 2015. Various positions at the Company, including Associate General Counsel and Director, Talent Management, from March 2001 to March 2012.
Michael R. Edwards, Division President – Famous Footwear since November 2020. Senior Vice President, Digital Commerce, Planning, Allocation and Stores from February 2018 to November 2020. Chief Customer Officer from September 2017 to February 2018. Senior Vice President, Planning, Allocation and Analytics from December 2016 to September 2017. Vice President, Planning and Allocation from May 2015 to December 2016. Vice President, Merchandising and Sales Operations from October 2011 to May 2015.
Daniel R. Friedman, Division President – Global Supply Chain since January 2010. Senior Vice President, Product Development and Sourcing from July 2006 to January 2010. Managing Director at Camuto Group, Inc. from 2002 to July 2006.
Kenneth H. Hannah, Senior Vice President, Chief Financial Officer since February 2015. Executive Vice President and Chief Financial Officer of JC Penney Company, Inc. from May 2012 to March 2014. Executive Vice President and President–Solar Energy of MEMC Electronic Materials, Inc. and had previously served as Executive Vice President and President–Solar Materials from 2009 to 2012. Senior Vice President and Chief Financial Officer of MEMC Electronic Materials, Inc. from 2006 to 2009.
Todd E. Hasty, Senior Vice President, Chief Accounting Officer since January 2020. Vice President, Chief Accounting Officer from March 2019 to January 2020. Vice President, Controller from March 2016 to March 2019. Vice President, Assistant Controller from October 2007 to March 2016.
Willis D. Hill, Senior Vice President, Chief Information Officer since September 2018. Senior Vice President and Chief Technology Officer from August 2017 to September 2018. Senior Vice President, Information Technology from January 2017 to August 2017. Vice President, Retail Information Technology from July 2011 to January 2017. Director, Retail Information Technology from July 2008 to July 2011.
Douglas W. Koch, Senior Vice President, Strategic Projects since September 2019. Senior Vice President and Chief Human Resources Officer from January 2016 to September 2019. Senior Vice President and Chief Talent and Strategy Officer from January 2011 to January 2016. Senior Vice President and Chief Talent Officer from May 2005 to January 2011. Senior Vice President, Human Resources from March 2002 to May 2005.
Jennifer S. Olsen, Chief Marketing Officer since June 2021. Chief Marketing Officer, UNTUCKit from January 2018 to June 2021. Various consulting roles from June 2015 to January 2018. Vice President, Media Marketing, Yahoo from June 2014 to June 2015. Chief Marketing Officer, Stich Fix from September 2013 to March 2014. Chief Marketing Officer, Crate & Barrel from May 2011 to August 2013. Various marketing roles at Gap, Inc. from 2001 to 2011 including Vice President, Marketing, Piperlime.
Mark A. Schmitt, Senior Vice President, Chief Logistics Officer since September 2018. Senior Vice President, Chief Information Officer and Logistics from February 2013 to September 2018. Senior Vice President and Chief Information Officer from January 2012 through February 2013. Senior Director of Management Information Systems for Express Scripts from 2010 through 2011. Various management information systems positions including Group Director with Anheuser-Busch InBev from 1996 to 2009.
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ITEM 1ARISK FACTORS
An investment in our common stock involves certain risks and uncertainties. In addition to other information in this Form 10-K, the following risk factors should be considered. Additional risks and uncertainties of which we are currently unaware could also have a material adverse effect on our business and financial conditions.
MACROECONOMIC AND INDUSTRY RISKS
Supply chain disruptions and inflationary pressures may adversely impact our gross margin and earnings.
During 2021, we experienced supply chain disruptions and port congestion, which led to delays in the receipt of inventory and significantly higher freight costs. Our in-transit inventory, which is not yet available to sell, has risen significantly as compared to historical levels. Depending on the timing of receipt of this inventory, certain customers may request price concessions or choose to cancel their orders altogether, which may adversely impact sales or gross margins. If we are unable to sell this in-transit inventory as planned, we may have to liquidate it through other less profitable channels, which may result in lower gross margins on those products. We have also experienced inflationary pressures, including product and labor costs. The extent and duration of these supply chain disruptions and inflationary cost pressures are uncertain and may limit our ability to meet incremental consumer demand, potentially impacting our net sales. In addition, the existing union contract between the United States west coast port operators, Pacific Maritime Association and International Longshore and Warehouse Union, expires on June 30, 2022. The vast majority of our products pass through the west coast ports and any slowdown or stoppage relating to these labor agreement negotiations may further delay the receipt of inventory or increase costs. While we are actively working to mitigate the supply chain disruptions and cost pressures we are experiencing, including recovering our increased costs through price increases, there is no guarantee that we will be successful doing so.
The coronavirus pandemic continues to impact our business operations and financial condition.
The coronavirus (“COVID-19”) pandemic, both in the U.S. and globally, continues to evolve and is unpredictable. The pandemic has resulted in government and private sector responsive actions around the world, including restrictions on large gatherings of people, travel bans, border closings and restrictions, vaccine mandates, business closures or reduced hours, and delays in the workforce returning to the office. While consumer demand rebounded in 2021 and we experienced significant growth in net sales and earnings, the COVID-19 pandemic continues to impact our business operations. It is impossible to predict the effect and ultimate impact of COVID-19 and the impact on the economy, the retail industry and the Company. The extent to which COVID-19 will continue to impact our results will depend on future developments, which are highly uncertain and cannot be predicted, including the emergence of additional variants. A continuation of the health crisis may have a material impact on the retail sector, consumer demand, and the Company’s results of operations and financial condition. The long-term economic impact of the pandemic and changes in consumer demand for our products cannot be reasonably predicted.
Consumer demand for our products may be adversely impacted by economic conditions and other factors.
Worldwide economic conditions continue to be uncertain. Consumer confidence and spending are strongly influenced by general economic conditions and other factors, including the pandemic, inflation, fiscal policy, the changing tax and regulatory environment, interest rates, minimum wage rates and regulations, consumer debt levels, the availability of consumer credit, the liquidity of consumers’ assets, health care costs, currency exchange rates, taxation, energy costs, real estate values, foreclosure rates, unemployment trends, weather conditions and the economic consequences of military action or terrorist activities, such as the current tensions in Eastern Europe and the potential impact of sanctions on the domestic and global economy. Consumer sentiment, including a preference for products made in the United States, may be impacted by the war in Eastern Europe, which may impact demand for our products that are sourced internationally. Negative economic conditions generally decrease disposable income and, consequently, consumer purchases of discretionary items like our products. Negative trends in economic conditions, such as the supply chain disruptions and inflationary pressures experienced during 2021, could also drive up the cost of our products. We began implementing price increases at the end of 2021 and additional inflationary pressures may require us to increase our product prices further. These increases in our product costs and prices may not be offset by comparable increases in consumer disposable income. As a result, our customers may choose to purchase fewer of our products or purchase the lower priced products of our competitors, and our business, results of operations, financial condition and cash flows could be adversely affected.
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If we are unable to anticipate and respond to consumer preferences and fashion trends and successfully apply new technology, we may not be able to maintain or increase our net sales and earnings.
The footwear industry is subject to rapidly changing consumer shopping preferences and patterns and fashion trends. Our products must appeal to a broad range of consumers whose preferences cannot be predicted with certainty and are subject to rapid change. In addition, the continued consumer shift to online and mobile shopping has required retailers to lower shipping costs charged to customers, improve shipping speeds and optimize mobile platforms. The trend toward online and mobile shopping has also increased the volume of smaller shipments, including single-pair shipments, from our warehouses. The increased volume of smaller shipments has resulted in higher average distribution costs, including both shipping and processing costs incurred at our distribution centers. In addition, an increase in e-commerce sales volume, which have higher return rates than in-store sales, may in turn lead to higher shipping and processing costs. The success of both our wholesale and retail operations depends largely on our ability to anticipate, understand and react to these changing consumer shopping patterns. If we fail to respond to changes in consumer shopping patterns, demands and fashion trends, develop new products and designs, and implement effective, responsive merchandising and distribution strategies and programs, we could experience lower sales, excess inventories and lower gross margins, any of which could have an adverse effect on our results of operations and financial condition.
Customer concentration and other trends in customer behavior may lead to a reduction in or loss of sales.
Our wholesale customers include e-commerce retailers, national chains, department stores, mass merchandisers and independent retailers. Several of our customers operate multiple department store divisions. Furthermore, we often sell multiple types of branded, licensed and private-label footwear to these same customers. While we believe purchasing decisions in many cases are made independently by the buyers and merchandisers of each of the customers, a decision by a significant customer to decrease the amount of footwear products purchased from us could have a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition or results of operations.
In addition, with the growing trend toward retail trade consolidation, including store count reductions at major retail chains, and consumers’ continued shift to online shopping, we and our wholesale customers increasingly depend upon a reduced number of key retailers whose bargaining strength is growing. This consolidation may result in the following adverse consequences:
We also face the following risks with respect to our customers:
We operate in a highly competitive industry.
Competition is intense in the footwear industry. There has also been consolidation of competitors in the industry, resulting in certain competitors that are larger and have greater financial, marketing and technological resources than we do. In
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addition, a move toward vertical integration by our competitors could create additional competitive pressures that may decrease our market share. Other competitors are able to offer footwear on a lateral basis alongside their apparel products, or have successfully branded their trademarks as lifestyle brands, resulting in greater competitive advantages. Low barriers to entry into this industry further intensify competition by allowing new companies to easily enter the markets in which we compete. Some of our suppliers further compound these competitive pressures by allowing consumers to purchase their products directly through supplier-maintained e-commerce sites and retail stores. The Internet facilitates price transparency and comparison shopping, which increases the level of competition we face and puts competitive pressure on us to keep our prices low.
We believe that our ability to compete successfully in the footwear industry depends on a number of factors, including style, price, performance, quality, location and service, as well as the strength of our brand names. We remain competitive by increasing awareness of our brands, improving the efficiency of our supply chain and enhancing the style, comfort, fashion and perceived value of our products. However, our competitors may implement more effective marketing campaigns, adopt more aggressive pricing policies, make more attractive offers to potential employees, distribution partners and manufacturers, or respond more quickly to changes in consumer preferences than us. As a result, we may not be able to compete successfully in the future, and increased competition may result in price reductions, reduced gross margins, loss of market share and an inability to generate cash flows that are sufficient to maintain or expand the development and marketing of our products, which could adversely impact our financial results.
Our quarterly sales and earnings may fluctuate, which may result in volatility in, or a decline in, our stock price.
Our quarterly sales and earnings can vary due to a number of factors, many of which are beyond our control, including the following:
As a result of these specific and other general factors, our operating results will vary from quarter to quarter and the results for any particular quarter may not be indicative of results for the full year. Any shortfall in sales or earnings from the levels expected by investors could cause a decrease in the trading price of our common stock.
Certain branded suppliers are becoming more selective. The loss of one or more of our major branded suppliers may adversely impact our business, results of operations, financial condition and cash flows.
Our Famous Footwear segment purchases a substantial portion of its footwear products from major branded suppliers. Products purchased from three key third-party suppliers (Nike, Skechers and adidas) represented approximately 26% of consolidated net sales. As is common in the industry, we do not have any long-term contracts with our suppliers. In addition, the success of our financial performance is dependent on the ability of our Famous Footwear segment to obtain products from our suppliers on a timely basis and on acceptable terms. While we believe we have positive working
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relationships with our current suppliers, the loss of any of our major suppliers or product developed exclusively for our Famous Footwear stores could have a material adverse effect on our business, financial condition and results of operations. In addition, negative trends in global economic conditions, including the impact of political tensions and military action in Eastern Europe and Eastern Asia and the impact of COVID-19 in Southeast Asia, may adversely impact our suppliers. If these third parties do not perform their obligations or are unable to provide us with the materials and services we need at prices and terms that are acceptable to us, our ability to meet our consumers’ demand could be adversely affected.
Foreign currency fluctuations may result in higher costs and decreased gross profits.
Although we purchase most of our products from international manufacturers in United States dollars and otherwise may engage in foreign currency hedging transactions from time to time, we may experience cost variations with respect to exchange rate changes. Currency exchange rate fluctuations may also adversely impact third parties who manufacture the Company’s products by making their purchases of raw materials or other production costs more expensive and more difficult to finance, resulting in higher prices and lower margins for the Company, its distributors and licensees.
OPERATIONAL RISKS
We rely primarily on international sources of production, which subjects our business to risks associated with international trade.
We rely primarily on international sourcing for our footwear products through third-party manufacturing facilities located outside the United States. As is common in the industry, we do not have any long-term contracts with our third-party international manufacturers. International sourcing is subject to numerous risks, including trade relations, work stoppages, transportation delays (including delays at international and domestic ports) and costs (including customs duties, quotas, tariffs, anti-dumping duties, safeguard measures, cargo restrictions or other trade restrictions), domestic and international political instability, foreign currency fluctuations, variable economic conditions, expropriation, nationalization, natural disasters, terrorist acts and military conflict, changes in governmental regulations (including the U.S. Foreign Corrupt Practices Act) and geo-political events, such as the current Russia-Ukraine crisis. We have recently experienced supply chain disruptions and port congestion, leading to delayed receipt of inventory in 2021. If supply chain disruptions continue, our financial results could be adversely impacted. In addition, the imposition of tariffs or other costs on imported products may result in an increase in product prices, which may in turn adversely impact our gross margins if we are unable to mitigate the impact of the costs. At the same time, potential changes in manufacturing preferences, including, but not limited to the following, pose additional risk and uncertainty:
As a result of these risks, there can be no assurance that we will not experience reductions in available production capacity, increases in our product costs, late deliveries or terminations of our supplier relationships. Furthermore, these sourcing risks are compounded by the lack of diversification in the geographic location of our international sourcing and manufacturing. Approximately 76% of the footwear we sourced in 2021 was from China. With the majority of our supply originating in China, a substantial portion of our supply could be at risk in the event of any significant negative development related to relations between United States and China.
Although we believe we could find alternative manufacturing sources for the products that we currently source from third-party manufacturing facilities in China or other countries, we may not be able to locate alternative manufacturers on terms as favorable as our current terms, including pricing, payment terms, manufacturing capacity, quality standards and lead times for delivery. In addition, there is substantial competition in the footwear industry for quality footwear manufacturers. Accordingly, our future results will partly depend on our ability to maintain positive working relationships with, and offer competitive terms to, our international manufacturers. If supply issues cause us to be unable to provide products consistent with our standards or manufacture our footwear in an efficient and cost-effective manner, our customers may cancel orders, refuse to accept deliveries or demand reductions in purchase prices, any of which could have a material adverse effect on our business and results of operations.
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We are reliant upon our information technology systems, and any major disruption of these systems could adversely impact our ability to effectively operate our business.
Our computer network and systems are essential to all aspects of our operations, including design, pricing, production, accounting, reporting, forecasting, ordering, manufacturing, transportation, sales and distribution. Our ability to manage and maintain our inventory and to deliver products in a timely manner depends on these systems. With the continued growth in direct-to-consumer sales on our e-commerce sites, any system disruption may result in an adverse impact to our operations. If any of these systems fails to operate as expected, we experience problems with transitioning to upgraded or replacement systems, a breach in security occurs or a natural disaster interrupts system functions, we may experience delays in product fulfillment, reduced efficiency in our operations, or delays in reporting our financial results to investors, or we may be required to expend significant capital to correct the problem, which may have an adverse effect on our results of operations and financial condition.
A cybersecurity breach may adversely affect our sales and reputation.
We routinely possess sensitive consumer and associate information and periodically provide it to third parties for analysis, benefit distribution or compliance purposes. Additionally, as a result of the pandemic, a large portion of our Corporate employees have shifted to a hybrid work schedule and are working remotely, which may result in heightened cybersecurity risk. Remote working environments may be less secure and more susceptible to hacking attacks, including phishing and social engineering attempts. While we believe we have taken reasonable and appropriate steps to protect that information, hackers and data thieves operate sophisticated, large-scale attacks that could breach our information systems, despite ongoing security measures. In addition, we are required to comply with increasingly complex regulations designed to protect our business and personal data. Any breach of our network security, a third-party’s network security or failure to comply with applicable regulations may result in (a) the loss of valuable business data and/or our consumers’ or associates’ personal information, (b) increased costs associated with implementing additional protections and processes, (c) a disruption of our business and a loss of sales, (d) negative media attention, (e) damage to our consumer and associate relationships and reputation, and (f) fines or lawsuits.
Our operating results depend on preparing accurate sales forecasts and properly managing our inventory levels.
Using sales forecasts, we place orders with manufacturers for some of our products prior to the time we receive all of our customers’ orders to minimize purchasing costs, the time necessary to fill customer orders and the risk of non-delivery. We also maintain an inventory of certain products that we anticipate will be in greater demand. At the retail level, we place orders for products many months in advance of our key selling seasons. Adverse economic conditions and rapidly changing consumer preferences can make it difficult for us and our retail customers to accurately forecast product trends in order to match production with demand. If we fail to accurately assess consumer fashion tastes and the impact of economic factors on consumer spending or to effectively differentiate our retail and wholesale offerings, our inventory levels may exceed customer demand, resulting in inventory write-downs, higher carrying costs, lower gross margins or the sale of excess inventory at discounted prices, which could significantly impact our financial results. Conversely, if we underestimate consumer demand for our products or if our manufacturers fail to supply the quality products that we require in a timely manner, we may experience inventory shortages. Inventory shortages may delay shipments to customers (and possibly require us to offer discounts or costly expedited shipping), negatively impact retailer and distributor relationships, adversely impact our sales results and diminish brand awareness and loyalty. The COVID-19 pandemic resulted in lower sales during 2020, and lower sales projections. The future impact of the pandemic, including the emergence of any new variants, and its impact on consumer sentiment is difficult to estimate.
A disruption in the effective functioning of our distribution centers could adversely affect our ability to deliver inventory on a timely basis.
We currently use several leased distribution centers, which serve as the source of replenishment of inventory for our footwear stores and e-commerce websites operated by our Famous Footwear and Brand Portfolio segments and serve the wholesale operations of our Brand Portfolio segment. Our success depends on our ability to handle the rapid consumer shift to online shopping and single pair shipments, which requires significant capital to operate with a greater level of sophistication and automation, as well as higher processing and distribution costs. We may be unable to successfully manage, negotiate or renew our distribution center leases, or we may experience complications with respect to our distribution centers, such as substantial damage to, or destruction of, such facilities due to natural disasters or ineffective information technology systems. In such an event, our other distribution centers may not be able to support the resulting additional distribution demands and we may be unable to locate alternative persons or entities capable of fulfilling our
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distribution needs, resulting in an adverse effect on our ability to deliver inventory on a timely basis. The effective operation of our distribution centers may also be impacted by wage inflation, labor shortages and disruptions to the supply chain.
Our success depends on our ability to retain senior management and recruit and retain other key associates.
Our success depends on our ability to attract, retain and motivate qualified management, administrative, product development and sales personnel to support existing operations and future growth. In addition, our ability to successfully integrate acquired businesses often depends on our ability to retain incumbent personnel, many of whom possess valuable institutional knowledge and operating experience. Competition for qualified personnel in the footwear industry is intense and we compete for these individuals with other companies that in many cases have superior financial and other resources. The loss of the services of any member of our senior management or key associates, the inability to attract and retain other qualified personnel or the inability to effectively transition positions could adversely affect the sales, design and production of our products as well as the implementation of our strategic initiatives.
Our retail business depends on our ability to secure affordable and desirable leased locations without creating a competitive concentration of stores.
The success of the retail business within our Famous Footwear and Brand Portfolio segments depends, in part, on our ability to secure affordable, long-term leases in desirable locations for our leased retail footwear stores and to secure renewals of such leases. As consumer shopping preferences have evolved, we continue to focus on opening stores in locations with a greater penetration of high-value consumers. No assurance can be given that we will be able to successfully negotiate lease renewals for existing stores or obtain acceptable terms for new stores in desirable locations. In addition, opening new stores in our existing markets may result in reduced net sales in existing stores as our stores become more concentrated in the markets we serve. As a result, the number of consumers and financial performance of individual stores may decline and the average sales per square foot at our stores may be reduced. Due to the changing retail landscape, we may want to reduce the number of retail store locations but may be unable to successfully exit lease agreements. This may result in impairments or lease termination charges that adversely impact our financial results.
Damage to our reputation or brands may negatively impact our business.
Our ability to maintain our reputation is integral to the success of our business. Failure to maintain quality merchandise and quality customer service may damage our reputation. The consumer’s perception of us, our stores and our brands, whether justified or not, could harm our reputation. Our success depends, in part, on our ability to keep existing consumers while also attracting new consumers and a damaged reputation will hinder that ability.
In addition, the increased use of social media by us and by our consumer has also increased the risk to our reputation. Negative commentary regarding us or the products we sell may be posted on social media at any time. Consumers value readily available information and may rely on negative commentary without regard to its accuracy. If we are unable to effectively manage social media, our reputation and consumer’s perception of our brands may be negatively impacted.
Our ESG initiatives may result in increased scrutiny from stakeholders or regulators with respect to our ESG goals and objectives. We may not be able to achieve our ESG goals within the timelines established, or at all. Failure to successfully achieve our established goals may damage our reputation, or the reputation of our brands. Our reputation may also be damaged if we do not act, or are perceived by our consumers to not act, responsibly with respect to our impact on the environment or other social or governance matters. Damage to our brands and reputation could have a material adverse effect on our business, results of operations, financial position and cash flow.
A significant portion of our Famous Footwear sales are dependent on our Famous Footwear loyalty program, Famously You Rewards ("Rewards"), and any decrease in sales from Rewards could have a material adverse impact on our sales.
Rewards is a customer loyalty program that drives sales and traffic for the Famous Footwear segment. Rewards members earn points toward savings certificates for qualifying purchases. Upon reaching specified point values, members are issued a savings certificate, which may be redeemed for purchases at Famous Footwear. Approximately 78% of our 2021 sales within the Famous Footwear segment were generated by our Rewards members. If our Rewards members do not continue to shop at Famous Footwear, our sales may be adversely affected.
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Transitional challenges with acquisitions and divestitures could result in unexpected expenditures of time and resources.
As part of our business strategy, we periodically pursue acquisitions of other companies or businesses, as well as divestitures of our businesses, such as the exit of the vast majority of our Naturalizer retail locations in the first quarter of 2021. Although we review the records of acquisition candidates, the review may not reveal all existing or potential problems. As a result, we may not accurately assess the value of the business and may, accordingly, ultimately assume unknown adverse operating conditions and/or unanticipated expenses and liabilities related to the acquisition. Acquisitions may also cause us to incur debt, write-offs of goodwill or intangible assets if the business does not perform as well as expected and substantial amortization expenses associated with other intangible assets. We face the risk that the returns on acquisitions will not support the expenditures or indebtedness incurred to acquire or launch such businesses. We also face the risk that we will not be able to integrate acquisitions into our existing operations or divest our businesses effectively without substantial expense, delay or other operational or financial problems. Integration may be hindered by, among other things, differing procedures, including internal controls, business practices and technology systems. We may need to allocate more management resources to integration than we planned, which may adversely affect our ability to pursue other profitable activities.
TAX, LEGAL, AND REGULATORY RISKS
Changes in tax laws may result in increased volatility in our effective tax rates.
Our financial results are significantly impacted by the effective tax rates of both our domestic and international operations. Future changes in tax laws could materially impact our effective tax rate. Other factors, such as changes in the mix of earnings in countries with differing statutory tax rates, changes in permitted deductions, interpretations, policies and treaties and the outcome of income tax audits in various jurisdictions, may result in higher taxes, lower profitability and increased volatility in our financial results.
Our business, sales and brand value could be harmed by violations of labor, trade or other laws.
We focus on doing business with those suppliers who share our commitment to responsible business practices and the principles set forth in our Production Code of Conduct (the “PCOC”). By requiring our suppliers to comply with the PCOC, we encourage our suppliers to promote best practices and work toward continual improvement throughout their production operations. The PCOC sets forth standards for working conditions and other matters, including compliance with applicable labor practices, workplace environment and compliance with laws. Although we promote ethical business practices, we do not control our suppliers or their labor practices. A failure by any of our suppliers to adhere to these standards or laws could cause us to incur additional costs for our products or cause negative publicity and harm our business and reputation. We also require our suppliers to meet our standards for product safety, including compliance with applicable laws and standards with respect to safety issues, including lead content in paint. Failure by any of our suppliers to adhere to product safety standards could lead to a product recall, which may result in critical media coverage, harm our business and reputation, and cause us to incur additional costs.
In addition, if we, or our suppliers or international manufacturers, violate United States or international trade laws or regulations, we may be subject to additional duties, significant monetary penalties, the seizure and forfeiture of the products we are attempting to import or the loss of our import privileges. Possible violations of United States or international laws or regulations could include inadequate record keeping of our imported products, misstatements or errors as to the origin, classification, marketing or valuation of our imported products, fraudulent visas or labor violations. The effects of these factors could render our conduct of business in a particular country undesirable or impractical and have a negative impact on our operating results.
Our reputation and competitive position are dependent on our ability to license well-recognized brands, license our own brands under successful licensing arrangements and protect our intellectual property rights.
Licenses - Company as Licensee
Although we own most of our wholesale brands, we also rely on our ability to attract, retain and maintain good relationships with licensors that have strong, well-recognized brands and trade names. Our license agreements are generally for an initial term of two to four years, subject to renewal, and there can be no assurance that we will be able to renew these licenses. Even our longer-term or renewable licenses are typically dependent upon our ability to market and sell the licensed products at specified levels, and the failure to meet such levels may result in the termination or non-renewal of
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such licenses. Furthermore, many of our license agreements require minimum royalty payments, and if we are unable to generate sufficient sales and profitability to cover these minimum royalty requirements, we may be required to make additional payments to the licensors that could have a material adverse effect on our business and results of operations. In addition, because certain of our license agreements are non-exclusive, new or existing competitors may obtain licenses with overlapping product or geographic terms, resulting in increased competition for a particular market.
Licenses - Company as Licensor
We have entered into numerous license agreements with respect to the brands and trade names that we own. While we have significant control over our licensees’ products and advertising, we generally cannot control their operational and financial issues. If our licensees are not able to meet annual sales and royalty goals, obtain financing, manage their supply chain, control quality and maintain positive relationships with their customers, our business, results of operations and financial position may be adversely affected. While we would likely have the ability to terminate an underperforming license, it may be difficult and costly to locate an acceptable substitute distributor or licensee, and we may experience a disruption in our sales and brand visibility. In addition, although many of our license agreements prohibit the licensees from entering into licensing arrangements with certain of our competitors, they are generally not prohibited from offering, under other brands, the types of products covered by their license agreements with us.
Trademarks
We believe that our trademarks and trade names are important to our success and competitive position because our distinctive marks create a market for our products and distinguish our products from other products. We cannot, however, guarantee that we will be able to secure protection for our intellectual property in the future or that such protection will be adequate for future operations. Furthermore, we face the risk of ineffective protection of intellectual property rights in jurisdictions where we source and distribute our products, some of which do not protect intellectual property rights to the same extent as the United States. If we are unsuccessful in challenging a party’s products on the basis of infringement of our intellectual property rights, continued sales of these products could adversely affect our sales, devalue our brands and result in a shift in consumer preference away from our products. We may face significant expenses and liability in connection with the protection of our intellectual property rights, and if we are unable to successfully protect our rights or resolve intellectual property conflicts with others, our business or financial condition could be adversely affected.
We are subject to periodic litigation and other regulatory proceedings, which could result in the unexpected expenditure of time and resources.
We are a defendant from time to time in lawsuits and regulatory actions (including environmental matters) relating to our business and to our past operations. Due to the inherent uncertainties of litigation and regulatory proceedings, we cannot accurately predict the ultimate outcome of any such proceedings. An unfavorable outcome could have a material adverse impact on our business, financial condition and results of operations. In addition, regardless of the outcome of any litigation or regulatory proceedings, such proceedings are expensive and will require that we devote substantial resources and executive time to defend, thereby diverting management’s attention and resources that are needed to successfully run our business. See Item 3, Legal Proceedings, for further discussion of pending matters.
LIQUIDITY RISKS
Our business, results of operations, financial condition and cash flows could be adversely affected by the failure of financial institutions to fulfill their commitments under our Credit Agreement.
The Fifth Amendment to our Fourth Amended and Restated Credit Agreement (the “Credit Agreement”), which matures on October 5, 2026, is provided by a syndicate of financial institutions, with each institution agreeing severally (and not jointly) to make revolving credit loans to us in an aggregate amount of up to $500.0 million in accordance with the terms of the Credit Agreement. In addition, the Credit Agreement provides for an increase at the Company’s option by up to $250.0 million. If one or more of the financial institutions participating in the Credit Agreement were to default on its obligation to fund its commitment, the portion of the facility provided by such defaulting financial institution may not be available to us. In addition, as of January 29, 2022, total borrowing availability under the Credit Agreement was $155.2 million. Failure to meet our debt covenants under the Credit Agreement may require the Company to seek waivers or amendments of the debt covenants, alternative or additional sources of financing or reduce expenditures.
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ITEM 1BUNRESOLVED STAFF COMMENTS
There are no unresolved written comments that were received from the SEC staff 180 days or more before the end of our fiscal year relating to our periodic or current reports under the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, as amended.
ITEM 2PROPERTIES
We own our principal executive, sales and administrative offices located in Clayton (“St. Louis”), Missouri.
Our retail operations, included in both our Famous Footwear and Brand Portfolio segments, are conducted throughout the United States, Canada, China and Guam and involve the operation of 980 retail stores, including 22 in Canada. All store locations, excluding our Perth, Ontario outlet center, are leased, with approximately 38% of them having renewal options. The footwear sold through our domestic wholesale business is primarily processed through our leased distribution centers in Chino, California and Lebanon, Tennessee.
The following table summarizes the location and general use of the Company’s primary properties:
Location Owned/Leased Segment Use
Chino, California (1) Leased Brand Portfolio Distribution centers
Lebec, California (3) Leased Famous Footwear Distribution center
New York, New York Leased Brand Portfolio Office space and showrooms
San Rafael and Culver City, California Leased Brand Portfolio Office space
Dongguan, China Leased Brand Portfolio Office space and sample-making facility
Santiago, Dominican Republic Leased Brand Portfolio Manufacturing facility
(2) This distribution center is approximately 540,000 square feet.
(3) This distribution center is approximately 350,000 square feet.
(4) This distribution center is approximately 150,000 square feet.
We also own a building in Denver, Colorado, which is leased to a third party, and undeveloped land in Colorado and New York. See Item 3, Legal Proceedings, for further discussion of certain of these properties.
ITEM 3LEGAL PROCEEDINGS
We are involved in legal proceedings and litigation arising in the ordinary course of business. In the opinion of management, the outcome of such ordinary course business proceedings and litigation currently pending will not have a material adverse effect on our results of operations or financial position.
Our prior operations included numerous manufacturing and other facilities for which we may have responsibility under various environmental laws to address conditions that may be identified in the future. We are involved in environmental remediation and ongoing compliance activities at several sites and have been notified that we are or may be a potentially responsible party at several other sites. We are remediating, under the oversight of Colorado authorities, contamination at and beneath our owned facility in Colorado (also known as the “Redfield” site) and groundwater and indoor air in
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residential neighborhoods adjacent to and near the property, which have been affected by solvents previously used at the site and surrounding facilities.
Refer to Note 16 to the consolidated financial statements for additional information related to the Redfield matter and other legal proceedings.
ITEM 4MINE SAFETY DISCLOSURES
Not applicable.
PART II
ITEM 5MARKET FOR REGISTRANT’S COMMON EQUITY, RELATED STOCKHOLDER MATTERS AND ISSUER PURCHASES OF EQUITY SECURITIES
Our common stock is listed on the New York Stock Exchange (“NYSE”) under the trading symbol “CAL.” As of January 29, 2022, we had 3,480 shareholders of record.
Issuer Purchases of Equity Securities
The following table provides information relating to our repurchases of common stock during the fourth quarter of 2021:
Total Number of Maximum Number
Shares Purchased of Shares that May
Total Number Average Price as Part of Yet Be
Fiscal of Shares Paid per Publicly Announced Purchased Under
Period Purchased (1) Share (1) Program (2) the Program (2)
Stock Performance Graph
The following performance graph compares the cumulative total return on our common stock with the cumulative total return of the following indices: (i) the S&P© SmallCap 600 Stock Index and (ii) a peer group of companies believed to be engaged in similar businesses. Our peer group consists of Designer Brands, Inc., Genesco, Inc., Shoe Carnival, Inc., Skechers U.S.A., Inc., Steven Madden, Ltd. and Wolverine World Wide, Inc.
Our fiscal year ends on the Saturday nearest to each January 31. Accordingly, share prices are as of the last business day in each fiscal year. The graph assumes that the value of the investment in our common stock and each index was $100 at January 28, 2017. The graph also assumes that all dividends were reinvested and that investments were held through January 29, 2022. These indices are included for comparative purposes only and do not necessarily reflect management’s
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opinion that such indices are an appropriate measure of the relative performance of the stock involved and are not intended to forecast or be indicative of possible future performance of the common stock.
*$100 invested on January 28, 2017 in stock or index, including reinvestment of dividends. Index calculated on daily basis.
ITEM 6RESERVED
ITEM 7MANAGEMENT’S DISCUSSION AND ANALYSIS OF FINANCIAL CONDITION AND RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
OVERVIEW
Business Overview
We are a global footwear company that operates retail shoe stores and e-commerce websites, and designs, develops, sources, manufactures and distributes footwear for people of all ages. Our mission is to inspire people to feel great...feet first. We offer the consumer a powerful portfolio of footwear brands built on deep consumer insights generating unwavering consumer loyalty and trust. As both a retailer and a wholesaler, we have a perspective on the marketplace that enables us to serve consumers from different vantage points. We believe our diversified business model provides us with synergies by spanning consumer segments, categories and distribution channels. A combination of thoughtful planning and rigorous execution is key to our success in optimizing our business and portfolio of brands. Our business strategy is focused on continued market share gains, investments in technology, and sustainability, while remaining focused on meeting changing consumer demand.
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Famous Footwear
Our Famous Footwear segment includes our Famous Footwear stores, famousfootwear.com and famousfootwear.ca in Canada. Famous Footwear is one of America’s leading family–branded footwear retailers with 894 stores at the end of 2021 and net sales of $1.7 billion in 2021. Our focus for the Famous Footwear segment is on meeting the needs of a well-defined consumer by providing an assortment of trend-right, brand-name fashion, casual and athletic footwear at a great price. During 2021, we continued to execute on our three-pronged strategy, which concentrates on merchandising, marketing and consumer experience. We continue to focus on increasing the opportunity between Famous Footwear and the brands within our Brand Portfolio segment, such as LifeStride, Blowfish Malibu, Dr. Scholl’s and Vionic Beach. We also have focused on offering the consumer a balanced assortment of athletic, sport and seasonal styles from well-known brands. As we work to evolve our product offerings, we are testing and adding new and emerging brands across various categories to meet the shifting preferences and behaviors of the consumer, which we believe may attract new Famous Footwear consumers while providing the current consumer with additional options. We are also optimizing our media investment to acquire new consumers, reactivate previous consumers and retain existing Famous Footwear consumers.
Brand Portfolio
Our Brand Portfolio segment is consumer-focused and we believe our success is dependent upon our ability to strengthen consumers’ preference for our brands by offering compelling style, quality, differentiated brand promises and innovative marketing campaigns. The segment is comprised of the Sam Edelman, Vionic, Naturalizer, Blowfish Malibu, Dr. Scholl’s Shoes, Allen Edmonds, LifeStride, Franco Sarto, Rykä, Vince, Bzees, Zodiac and Veronica Beard brands. Through these brands, we offer our customers a diversified selection of footwear, each designed and targeted to a specific consumer segment within the marketplace. We are able to showcase many of our brands in our retail stores and online, leveraging our wholesale and retail platforms, sharing consumer insights across our businesses and testing new and innovative products. Our Brand Portfolio segment operates 70 retail stores in the United States for our Allen Edmonds, Sam Edelman and Naturalizer brands. This segment also includes our e-commerce businesses that sell our branded footwear. We also operate a joint venture, which expands our international presence by distributing our Sam Edelman and Naturalizer brands through 16 retail stores in China.
Supply Chain Disruptions and Inflationary Pressures
During 2021, our business operations continued to be impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, including the delayed receipt of inventory attributable to temporary factory shutdowns, border closures, port congestion and shipping vessel and container availability. Our inventory levels at January 29, 2022 were $108.9 million higher than the prior year-end, inclusive of an $83.5 million increase in-transit inventory, reflecting the ongoing supply chain disruptions. While we have experienced an improvement in inventory receipts at the beginning of 2022, we expect supply chain disruptions to continue through the first half of 2022. Due to lower shipping vessel and container availability, we experienced higher transportation costs throughout 2021, with approximately $23 million of incremental transportation costs incurred during the second half of 2021. We expect to continue to experience inflationary pressures for freight and other product costs during 2022. If we are unable to recover the impact of these costs through price increases to our customers, or if consumer spending decreases as a result of inflation, our business, results of operations, financial condition and cash flows may be adversely affected. In addition, ongoing inflation in product costs may result in lower gross margins due to a higher inventory reserve requirement for the inventory valued using the last-in, first-out (“LIFO”) costing methodology, which is used to value approximately 89% of our consolidated inventories.
Financial Highlights
The following is a summary of the financial highlights for 2021:
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The following items should be considered in evaluating the comparability of our 2021 and 2020 results:
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Financial Outlook
We delivered record-setting financial results in 2021, which will provide us with significant momentum going into 2022. Our strong financial results demonstrate the strength of our portfolio of brands, the success of our advanced operating capabilities, the tremendous efforts and talents of our associates and the significant value-enhancing transformation of the organization. In 2022, we will be focused on unlocking growth opportunities across the Company, while taking additional steps to mitigate supply chain and inflationary pressures. We believe we are uniquely positioned to meet consumer needs and capture growth across trending footwear categories such as event, occasion and career, while continuing to capitalize on demand for the athletic and sport-inspired styles. We are confident that the investments we have made, the strategic priorities we have set in motion, and our strengthened financial position and potential for ongoing strong cash generation will enable us to continue to return capital to shareholders, better align supply with consumer demand and invest in our long-term strategic initiatives.
Metrics Used in the Evaluation of Our Business
The following are a couple of key metrics by which we evaluate our business and make strategic decisions:
Same-store sales
The same-store sales metric is a metric commonly used in the retail industry to evaluate the revenue generated for stores that have been open for more than a year, though many retailers may calculate the metric differently. Management uses the same-store sales metric as a measure of an individual store’s success to determine whether its sales performance is consistent with expectations. Our same-store sales metric is a daily-weighted calculation for the period, which includes sales for stores that have been open at least 13 months. In addition, in order to be included in the same-store sales metric, a store must be open in the current period as well as the corresponding day(s) of the comparable retail calendar in the prior year. Accordingly, closed stores (including temporary store closures related to the pandemic) are excluded from the same-store sales metric for each day of the closure. Relocated stores are treated as new stores and therefore excluded from the calculation. E-commerce sales for those websites that function as an extension of a retail chain are included in the same-store sales calculation. We believe the same-store sales metric is useful to shareholders and investors in assessing the performance of our existing retail store locations with comparable prior year sales, separate from the impact of store openings or closures.
Sales per square foot
The sales per square foot metric is commonly used in the retail industry tomeasure the efficiency of a store’s sales based upon the square footage in a store. Management uses the sales per square foot metric as a measure of an individual store’s success to determine whether it is performing consistent with expectations. The sales per square foot metric is calculated by dividing total retail store sales, excluding e-commerce sales, by the total square footage of the retail store base at the end of each month of the respective period.
Comparison of Financial Results
The following sections discuss the consolidated and segment results of our operations for the year ended January 29, 2022 compared to the year ended January 30, 2021. For a discussion of the year ended January 30, 2021 compared to the year ended February 1, 2020, refer to Part II, Item 7 "Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations" in our Annual Report on Form 10-K for the year ended January 30, 2021.
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CONSOLIDATED RESULTS
% of % of % of
($ millions) Net Sales Net Sales Net Sales
Impairment of goodwill and intangible assets — — % 286.5 13.5 % — — %
Restructuring and other special charges, net 13.5 0.5 % 96.7 4.6 % 14.8 0.4 %
Loss on early extinguishment of debt (1.0) (0.1) % — — % — — %
Net Sales
Net sales increased $660.5 million, or 31.2%, to $2,777.6 million in 2021, compared to $2,117.1 million last year. In 2021, we experienced an increase in retail store traffic once the impacts of the pandemic began to recede and government restrictions eased. In addition, consumer demand for our on-trend assortment supported a reduction in promotional activity, resulting in significant full-price selling. These factors resulted in record-setting net sales for our Famous Footwear segment, which increased $484.7 million, or 38.4%, compared to last year. Net sales for our Brand Portfolio segment increased $178.5 million, or 19.8%, compared to last year. While Brand Portfolio net sales improved over last year, they remain below sales in 2019, due in part to the brand exits announced in late 2019 and early 2020 and the related closure of all but two Naturalizer retail stores in North America. On a consolidated basis, our direct-to-consumer sales represented approximately 75% of total net sales for 2021, compared to 73% last year. Our casual, athletic and sport footwear categories continued to perform well and our sandals category experienced strong growth. In addition, demand for the dress category continued to improve as more people are returning to the workplace and attending social gatherings.
Gross Profit
Gross profit increased $440.3 million, or 55.9%, to $1,227.3 million in 2021, compared to $787.0 million in 2020 driven by higher net sales, more full-price selling and a significant decrease in promotional activity at Famous Footwear due to our strong product assortment and inventory management, partially offset by higher inbound freight costs. In addition, during 2020 our gross profit was impacted by incremental inventory markdowns reflecting the difficult retail environment and our business exits described earlier. As a percentage of net sales, our gross profit rate increased to 44.2% in 2021, compared to 37.2% in 2020. The higher gross profit rate reflects more full-price selling and a decline in promotional activity driven by strong consumer demand, partially offset by higher inbound freight costs.
We classify warehousing, distribution, sourcing and other inventory procurement costs in selling and administrative expenses. Accordingly, our gross profit and selling and administrative expenses, as a percentage of net sales, may not be comparable to other companies.
Selling and Administrative Expenses
Selling and administrative expenses increased $118.5 million, or 13.3%, to $1,008.0 million in 2021, compared to $889.5 million last year. The increase reflects higher salary and benefits expenses, higher marketing expenses and an increase in stock and deferred compensation expense, partially offset by lower rent and facilities costs. During 2020, we managed controllable expenses in response to the difficult business environment and lower sales volume resulting from the pandemic. The strategic actions taken in 2020 resulted in lower salaries and benefits expense; lower variable expenses associated with the temporary store closures, including the impact of certain rent concessions received from landlords; and lower marketing, travel and logistics expenses. As a percentage of net sales, selling and administrative expenses decreased to 36.3% in 2021 from 42.0% last year, reflecting better leveraging of expenses over a higher sales base.
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Impairment of Goodwill and Intangible Assets
During 2020, we recorded non-cash impairment charges totaling $286.5 million ($236.4 million on an after-tax basis, or $6.35 per diluted share). We recorded $240.3 million of impairment associated with goodwill as a result of the unfavorable business climate and our lower market capitalization. In addition, we recorded $46.2 million of impairment associated with intangible assets, including $36.0 million associated with the Allen Edmonds trade name and customer relationship intangible asset and $10.2 million associated with the Via Spiga trade name. There were no corresponding impairment charges in 2021. Refer to Note 10 to the consolidated financial statements for additional information related to these charges.
Restructuring and Other Special Charges, Net
We incurred restructuring and other special charges of $13.5 million ($11.9 million on an after-tax basis, or $0.31 per diluted share) during 2021, compared to $96.7 million in 2020 as follows:
● Integration-related costs for Vionic of $3.4 million in 2020.
The nature of the above charges are more fully described in the Financial Highlights section above and Note 4 to the consolidated financial statements.
Operating Earnings (Loss)
Operating earnings increased $691.5 million to $205.8 million in 2021, compared to an operating loss of $485.7 million last year, reflecting the factors described above. As a percentage of net sales, operating earnings were 7.4% in 2021, compared to an operating loss of 22.9% in 2020.
Interest Expense, Net
Interest expense, net decreased $17.3 million, or 35.9%, to $30.9 million in 2021, compared to $48.2 million last year, which is attributable to various factors. The fair value adjustments on the mandatory purchase obligation associated with the Blowfish Malibu acquisition totaled $15.4 million in 2021, compared to $23.9 million in 2020. The mandatory purchase obligation was settled for $54.6 million on November 4, 2021. In addition, we continued to use our strong cash generation to reduce the borrowings under our revolving credit agreement from $440.0 million at March 2020 to $290.0 million at January 29, 2022. As a result, the average borrowings under our revolving credit agreement were lower in 2021, decreasing our interest expense. In addition, we redeemed our $200 million aggregate principal of senior notes during 2021, prior to maturity, shifting this higher interest rate debt to borrowings under our revolving credit agreement. We expect our net interest expense to be lower going forward as a result of the redemption of the senior notes. Refer to Note 11 to the consolidated financial statements for additional information related to our borrowings and Note 4 and Note 13 for further discussion regarding the mandatory purchase obligation.
Loss on Early Extinguishment of Debt
The loss on early extinguishment of debt was $1.0 million in 2021, reflecting the redemption of our $200.0 million aggregate principal senior notes prior to maturity, as well as the amendment of our revolving credit facility. Refer to Note 11 to the consolidated financial statements for further discussion.
Other Income, Net
Other income, net decreased $1.5 million, or 8.7%, to $15.3 million in 2021, compared to $16.8 million in 2020, reflecting a reduction in certain components of net periodic benefit income associated with our pension plans. Refer to Note 5 to the consolidated financial statements for additional information related to our retirement plans.
Income Tax (Provision) Benefit
Our consolidated effective tax rate was 27.0% in 2021, compared to 15.1% in 2020. Our higher tax rate for 2021 primarily reflects strong domestic earnings and incremental valuation allowances recorded for our deferred tax assets for certain
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jurisdictions. The rate also reflects incremental valuation allowances related to operating losses at our Canadian business division, which were driven by exit-related costs associated with the Naturalizer retail stores during the first quarter of 2021. In 2020, our effective tax rate was impacted by several discrete tax items, including the non-deductibility of a portion of our goodwill impairment charges and the incremental tax provision related to the vesting of stock awards. Our tax benefit for 2020 also includes the favorable impact of approximately $8.2 million related to the CARES Act, which permits us to carry back a significant portion of our 2020 losses to years with a higher federal tax rate. In addition, due to the significance of our 2020 loss before income taxes, the Company entered into a three-year cumulative loss position for federal, state and certain international jurisdictions. We increased our valuation allowances on deferred tax assets to $50.0 million during 2020, reflecting the uncertainty regarding the utilization of our deferred tax assets in these jurisdictions. The requirement for valuation allowances on our deferred tax assets may result in ongoing volatility in our effective tax rate until the Company is no longer in a three-year cumulative loss position. Refer to Note 6 to the consolidated financial statements for additional information regarding income taxes.
Net Earnings (Loss) Attributable to Caleres, Inc.
Consolidated net income attributable to Caleres, Inc. was $137.0 million in 2021, compared to a net loss of $439.1 million last year, reflecting the factors described above.
Geographic Results
We have both domestic and international operations. Domestic operations include the nationwide operation of our Famous Footwear and other branded retail footwear stores, the wholesale distribution of footwear to numerous retail consumers and the operation of our e-commerce websites. International operations primarily consist of wholesale operations in Eastern Asia, Canada and Europe, retail operations in Canada and China and the operation of our international e-commerce websites. In addition, we license certain of our trade names to third parties who distribute and/or operate retail locations internationally. The operations in Eastern Asia include first-cost transactions, where footwear is sold at international ports to customers who then import the footwear into the United States and other countries. The breakdown of domestic and international net sales and earnings (loss) before income taxes is as follows:
Earnings Before Loss Before Earnings Before
As a percentage of sales, the pre-tax profitability on international sales is higher than on domestic sales because of a lower cost structure and the inclusion of the unallocated corporate administrative and other costs in domestic earnings. In 2020, both our domestic and international earnings were impacted by the goodwill and intangible asset impairment charges described earlier.
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FAMOUS FOOTWEAR
% of % of % of
Key Metrics
Same-store sales % change 12.5 % 1.6 % 2.0 %
Same-store sales $ change $ 153.6 $ 20.0 $ 31.1
Sales per square foot, excluding e-commerce $ 249 $ 159 $ 223
Square footage (thousand sq. ft.) 5,912 6,074 6,281
Stores opened 10 6 12
Stores closed 32 39 55
Net Sales
Net sales increased $484.7 million, or 38.4%, to $1,748.3 million in 2021, compared to $1,263.6 million last year. Our record-setting results in 2021 were attributable to a number of factors. As the effects of the pandemic began to recede, we experienced a significant increase in retail store traffic in 2021. The consumer demand for our on-trend assortment supported a reduction in promotional activity, resulting in more full-price selling. Our e-commerce penetration in 2021 was approximately 14% of net sales, compared to approximately 22% last year when our retail stores were temporarily closed beginning in mid-March at the onset of the pandemic, with a phased reopening beginning in May. While supply chain disruptions have resulted in shipping delays, our well-positioned inventory drove our strong performance. Seasonal product, particularly sandals, performed well, and we experienced robust growth in our casual and athletic categories. Our children’s business also continued to grow significantly, outpacing total company performance. During 2021, we had net closures of 22 stores as we continue to focus on optimizing our store base and eliminating underperforming locations.
Sales to members of our customer loyalty program, Famously You Rewards ("Rewards"), continue to account for a majority of the segment’s sales, with approximately 78% of net sales to loyalty program members in 2021, compared to 79% in 2020.
Gross Profit
Gross profit increased $349.5 million, or 71.3%, to $839.4 million in 2021, compared to $489.9 million last year, driven by the net sales increase and a higher gross profit rate. As a percentage of net sales, our gross profit rate increased to 48.0% in 2021, compared to 38.8% in 2020, reflecting a significant reduction in promotional activity driven by growth in consumer demand as well as our strong product assortment and inventory management. In addition, our gross profit margin in 2020 was adversely impacted by $6.0 million in incremental inventory markdowns, reflecting the difficult retail environment driven by the pandemic.
Selling and Administrative Expenses
Selling and administrative expenses increased $65.9 million, or 13.3%, to $563.0 million during 2021 compared to $497.1 million last year. The increase reflects higher variable expenses, including payroll associated with our retail store associates and logistics, associated with the increase in sales volume, as well as higher marketing expenses. Salary expenses were lower in 2020 driven by the temporary closure of all Famous Footwear stores for a portion of the first half
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of 2020 due to the pandemic. As a percentage of net sales, selling and administrative expenses decreased to 32.2% in 2021 from 39.4% last year, reflecting better leveraging of expenses over a higher net sales base.
Restructuring and Other Special Charges, Net
Restructuring and other special charges were $16.6 million during 2020, consisting primarily of impairment charges on furniture and fixtures in our retail stores and lease right-of-use assets. Refer to Note 4 to the consolidated financial statements for additional information related to these charges. There were no corresponding charges during 2021.
Operating Earnings (Loss)
Operating earnings increased $300.2 million to $276.4 million for 2021, compared to an operating loss of $23.8 million last year, reflecting higher net sales, an increase in gross profit rate and the other factors described above. As a percentage of net sales, operating earnings were 15.8% for 2021, compared to an operating loss of 1.9% last year.
BRAND PORTFOLIO
% of % of % of
Key Metrics
Direct-to-consumer (% of net sales) (1) 32 % 32 % 28 %
Change in wholesale net sales ($) $ 114.6 $ (396.4) $ 107.6
Unfilled order position at end of period $ 452.4 $ 218.2 $ 295.4
Same-store sales % change 30.6 % (31.0) % (5.8) %
Same-store sales $ change $ 32.9 $ (59.7) $ (15.5)
Sales change from new and closed stores, net $ 30.4 $ (47.9) $ 1.5
Square footage (thousands sq. ft.) 116 269 387
Stores opened 9 7 11
Stores closed 93 65 12
Ending stores 86 170 228
Net Sales
Net sales increased $178.5 million, or 19.8%, to $1,081.0 million in 2021, compared to $902.5 million last year, reflecting strong sales growth from our Sam Edelman, Vionic, Allen Edmonds and Blowfish Malibu brands. Both Sam Edelman and Allen Edmonds have experienced renewed interest and growth in the dress shoe category, as more people returned to the workplace and began to attend special occasion events. Our net sales in 2021 were adversely impacted by the delayed receipt of inventory due to supply chain disruptions, including factory shutdowns, border closures, port congestion and shipping vessel and container availability. In addition, sales were adversely impacted during 2020, as many of our wholesale customers canceled orders and those customers and the Company temporarily closed retail stores for several weeks during 2020.
In the first quarter of 2021, we permanently closed the remaining 73 Naturalizer stores in North America that were scheduled for closure as part of our strategic realignment of the Naturalizer retail store operations. While net sales
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improved over last year, they remain below pre-pandemic levels, due in part to these retail store closures. We remain focused on growing the Naturalizer brand’s e-commerce business through naturalizer.com, our retail partners and their websites, and the two flagship stores in the United States. Including the Naturalizer closures, we closed 93 stores and opened nine stores during 2021, resulting in a total of 86 stores at the end of 2021. Sales per square foot, excluding e-commerce sales, increased to $906, compared to $179 last year. The sales per square foot metric in 2020 was adversely impacted by the temporary retail store closures and therefore, it is not comparable to 2021. In addition, with the closure of nearly all of our Naturalizer retail stores in 2021, the majority of our Brand Portfolio segment stores are for our Allen Edmonds brand, which have higher retail price points than the Naturalizer brand.
The unfilled order position for our wholesale business increased $234.2 million to $452.4 million at the end of 2021, compared to $218.2 million at the end of last year. The increase in our backlog order levels reflects the delayed receipt of inventory due to global supply chain disruptions and higher demand. We are actively working to diversify and leverage our sourcing model to help offset the impact of these supply chain challenges, but expect the disruptions to continue into 2022.
Gross Profit
Gross profit increased $92.0 million, or 31.2%, to $386.8 million in 2021, compared to $294.8 million last year, due to higher net sales and an improved gross profit rate. Our gross profit in 2020 was negatively impacted by higher incremental cost of goods sold primarily due to $27.5 million in inventory markdowns reflecting the difficult retail environment driven by the pandemic, as well as $4.0 million in inventory markdowns related to the decision to close all but a limited number of our Naturalizer retail stores and exit our Fergie brand. As a percentage of sales, our gross profit rate increased to 35.8% in 2021, compared to 32.7% last year. In connection with the supply chain disruptions described earlier, our freight costs have risen significantly. We anticipate inbound freight costs to remain high in 2022, which may continue to impact our gross profit if we are unable to mitigate or fully recover these additional costs through price increases.
Selling and Administrative Expenses
Selling and administrative expenses were $337.4 million in 2021, consistent with last year. Higher marketing and salaries expenses were offset by lower rent and facilities expenses, primarily due to the lower store count. As a percentage of net sales, selling and administrative expenses decreased to 31.2% in 2021 from 37.4% last year, reflecting better leveraging of expenses over a higher net sales base.
Impairment of Goodwill and Intangible Assets
We incurred impairment charges of $286.5 million during 2020, including $240.3 million associated with goodwill and $46.2 million associated with intangible assets, including $32.0 for the Allen Edmonds trade name, $10.2 million for the Via Spiga trade name and $4.0 million associated with other Allen Edmonds intangible assets. The goodwill impairment charges were a result of the unfavorable business climate and our lower market capitalization, due in part to the economic impacts of the pandemic. There were no corresponding impairment charges in 2021. Refer to Note 10 to the consolidated financial statements for additional information related to the impairments.
Restructuring and Other Special Charges, Net
Restructuring and other special charges of $13.5 million were recorded during 2021 for expenses associated with the strategic realignment of the Naturalizer retail store operations. These costs primarily represented lease termination and other store closure costs, including employee severance, for the 73 stores that were closed during the first quarter of 2021. During 2020, $79.3 million of restructuring and other special charges were recorded, primarily comprised of $63.6 million for impairment charges on store furniture and fixtures and lease right-of-use assets, liabilities due to our factories for order cancellations and severance expense. In addition, our 2020 expenses included $12.4 million associated with the closure of our Naturalizer retail stores and $3.3 million in integration-related costs for Vionic. Refer to Note 4 to the consolidated financial statements for additional information related to these charges.
Operating Earnings (Loss)
Operating earnings increased $444.3 million to $35.9 million in 2021, compared to an operating loss of $408.4 million last year, as a result of the factors described above. As a percentage of net sales, operating earnings were 3.3% in 2021, compared to an operating loss of 45.3% last year.
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ELIMINATIONS AND OTHER
% of % of % of
($ millions) Net Sales Net Sales Net Sales
Gross profit $ 1.1 (2.2) % $ 2.3 (4.8) % $ 2.4 (3.3) %
The Eliminations and Other category includes the elimination of intersegment sales and profit, unallocated corporate administrative expenses, and other costs and recoveries.
The net sales elimination of $51.7 million for 2021 is $2.7 million, or 5.6%, higher than in 2020, reflecting an increase in product sold from our Brand Portfolio segment to Famous Footwear.
Selling and administrative expenses increased $52.7 million, or 96.0%, to $107.6 million in 2021, compared to $54.9 million last year, primarily driven by higher anticipated payments under our cash and stock-based incentive compensation plans due to our strong financial performance, higher expenses associated with certain cash-based director compensation plans that are variable based on our stock price and an increase in salaries expense. Salaries expense was lower in 2020 as a result of the strategic actions we took to mitigate the impact of the pandemic, including salary reductions and associate furloughs for a portion of the year.
Restructuring and other special charges of $0.8 million in 2020 were comprised primarily of costs associated with workforce reductions as we sought to align our expense structure with the lower sales performance, combined with incremental expenses associated with deep cleaning our facilities and related supplies. There were no corresponding charges in 2021.
RESTRUCTURING AND OTHER INITIATIVES
During 2021, we incurred restructuring and other special charges of $13.5 million, reflecting expenses associated with the decision to close all Naturalizer retail stores in North America with the exception of two Naturalizer flagship retail stores in the United States. These costs primarily represented lease termination and other store closure costs, including employee severance, for the 73 stores that were closed in 2021.
During 2020, we incurred restructuring and other special charges of $96.7 million, including approximately $80.9 million in costs primarily associated with the economic impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, including impairment charges associated with lease right-of-use assets and retail store furniture and fixtures, liabilities associated with factory order cancellations and severance. In addition, we incurred $12.4 million related to the decision to close all but a limited number of Naturalizer retail stores, as described above, and $3.4 million of integration-related costs for Vionic.
Refer to the Financial Highlights section above and Note 4 to the consolidated financial statements for additional information related to these charges.
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LIQUIDITY AND CAPITAL RESOURCES
Borrowings
($ millions) January 29, 2022 January 30, 2021 (1) Increase (Decrease)
Borrowings under revolving credit agreement $ 290.0 $ 250.0 $ 40.0
Long-term debt — 198.9 (198.9)
Total debt obligations decreased $158.9 million to $290.0 million at the end of 2021, compared to $448.9 million at the end of last year, as we continued to use our strong cash generation to reduce our debt levels. In August 2021, we redeemed $100.0 million of our senior notes and on January 3, 2022, we redeemed the remaining $100.0 million of senior notes. We shifted this higher interest rate debt to borrowings under our revolving credit facility, which is expected to result in net interest expense savings on an ongoing basis. Net interest expense in 2021 was $30.9 million, compared to $48.2 million in 2020. The decrease in net interest expense in 2021 was primarily attributable to a decrease in the fair value adjustments to the mandatory purchase obligation associated with the Blowfish Malibu acquisition, as further discussed in Note 13 to the consolidated financial statements, and lower average borrowings under the revolving credit facility.
Credit Agreement
As further discussed in Note 11 to the consolidated financial statements, the Company maintains a revolving credit facility for working capital needs. The Company is the lead borrower, and Sidney Rich Associates, Inc., BG Retail, LLC, Allen Edmonds LLC, Vionic Group LLC and Vionic International LLC are each co-borrowers and guarantors under the revolving credit facility. On October 5, 2021, we entered into a Fifth Amendment to Fourth Amended and Restated Credit Agreement (as so amended, the “Credit Agreement”) which, among other modifications, extends the maturity date of the credit facility from January 18, 2024 to October 5, 2026, and decreases the borrowing availability under the revolving credit facility by $100.0 million to an aggregate amount of up to $500.0 million, subject to borrowing base restrictions, and may be further increased by up to $250.0 million.
Interest on the borrowings is at variable rates based on the London Interbank Offered Rate ("LIBOR") (with a floor of 0.0%), or the prime rate (as defined in the Credit Agreement), plus a spread. The Credit Agreement decreased the spread applied to the LIBOR or prime rate by a total of 75 basis points. The interest rate and fees for letters of credit vary based upon the level of excess availability under the Credit Agreement. There is an unused line fee payable on the unused portion under the facility and a letter of credit fee payable on the outstanding face amount under letters of credit.
Borrowing availability under the Credit Agreement is limited to the lesser of the total commitments and the borrowing base ("Loan Cap"), which is based on stated percentages of the sum of eligible accounts receivable, eligible inventory and eligible credit card receivables, as defined, less applicable reserves. Under the Credit Agreement, the Loan Parties’ obligations are secured by a first-priority security interest in all accounts receivable, inventory and certain other collateral. Refer to further discussion regarding the Credit Agreement in Note 11 to the consolidated financial statements.
At January 29, 2022, we had $290.0 million borrowings and $10.8 million in letters of credit outstanding under the Credit Agreement. Total borrowing availability was $155.2 million at January 29, 2022. We were in compliance with all covenants and restrictions under the Credit Agreement as of January 29, 2022.
$200 Million Senior Notes
On July 27, 2015, we issued $200.0 million aggregate principal amount of Senior Notes due in 2023 (the "Senior Notes"). The Senior Notes were guaranteed on a senior unsecured basis by each of the subsidiaries of Caleres, Inc. that is an obligor under the Credit Agreement, and bore interest at 6.25%, which was payable on February 15 and August 15 of each year.
On August 16, 2021, we redeemed $100.0 million of Senior Notes at 100.0%. In addition, on January 3, 2022, we redeemed the remaining $100.0 million of Senior Notes at 100.0%. In conjunction with the redemption of the Senior Notes prior to maturity, we incurred a loss on early extinguishment of debt of $1.0 million. Refer to further discussion regarding the Senior Notes in Note 11 to the consolidated financial statements.
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Working Capital and Cash Flow
Operating working capital ($ millions) (1) $ 193.8 $ 191.8
Debt-to-capital ratio (3) 47.3 % 68.8 %
Operating working capital at January 29, 2022, was $193.8 million, which was $2.0 million higher than at January 30, 2021. Our current ratio was 0.82 to 1 at January 29, 2022, compared to 0.86 to 1 at January 30, 2021. Our debt-to-capital ratio was 47.3% as of January 29, 2022, compared to 68.8% at January 30, 2021, reflecting lower debt resulting from the redemption of our senior notes during 2021 as well as higher equity attributable to our strong financial results in 2021.